INJEN CAI installed

[dutchie101]

Again, the oil contamination comes into play:

Technical Description

System Too Lean (Bank 1)

What does that mean?

Basically this means that an oxygen sensor in bank 1 detected a lean condition (too much oxygen in the exhaust). On V6/V8/V10 engines, Bank 1 is the side of the engine that has cylinder #1.

Note: This DTC is very similar to P0174, and in fact your vehicle may show both codes at the same time.

Symptoms

You will more than likely not notice any drivability problems, although there may be symptoms such as a lack of power, detonation (spark knock), and/or a hesitation/surge on acceleration.

Causes

A code P0171 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:

* The MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor is dirty or faulty. Note: The use of "oiled" air filters may cause the MAF to become dirty if the filter is over-oiled. There is also an issue with some vehicles where the MAF sensors leak the silicone potting material used to protect the circuitry.

* There could be a vacuum leak downstream of the MAF sensor.

Possible Solutions

Possible solutions include:

* In the vast majority of cases, simply cleaning the MAF sensor does the trick. Consult your service manual for it's location if you need help. I find it's best to take it off and spray it with electronics cleaner or brake cleaner. Make sure you are careful not to damage the MAF sensor, and make sure it's dry before reinstalling

* Inspect all vacuum and PCV hoses, replace if necessary

* Check for a dirty fuel filter and proper fuel pressure

OBD-II Trouble codes

and another from a Yaris forum:

Id say the most likely cause is the MAF sensor. Especially if there is a aftermarket intake. Oiled intakes such as K&N have been known to contaminated sensors. The oils get sucked on and stick to the sensor. Then the dirt sticks to the oils and builds up on the sensitive wire.

Im still thinking oil build up issues. Thats exactly what Charlie told me right from the start, a clean with elect cleaner than its ok again, then its gets oiled again over time, cleaned - ok again. I see a pattern here. Maybe try cleaning again and get a non oiled filter. Easy way to find out if thats the problem.

Also:

In new models the airflow meter has 2 main group of sensors incorporated in a single unit , being one the IAT and the other the AIR FLOW METER , the IAT sits on the outside and looks like a big DROP of syrup , cleaning this will make no diference in relation to the code ,

now if you look closely at the unit ,look deeply inside and you will see 2 little grey (car models will differ in color) zener diode "look alike" sensors These are the actual A/F meter components ,These are the ones to clean if you want to get rid of these problem,

Similar MAF but not the same as ours

Edited April 26, 2010 by dutchie101

[dwee.]

Dutchie, my car is '09 ZRE..so yeah, not just '08 ZREs!

What was weird today was, when I going back to Tom's house after the recon run, the 'check engine' light went off (700kms). Opened the hood, found out the line for the "excess fumes from the engine" to intake (according to Charlie) was out of its place..

Since I had to re-position my foglight wires (ballast & wires) and put on the hydroshield, decided to reinstalled it again. Fine so far.

In regards to MAF position, I think it's the right position. But to be sure, maybe someone with stock intake can please take a photo of theirs? :)

Peter.

[flipsta24]

Again, the oil contamination comes into play:

Technical Description

System Too Lean (Bank 1)

What does that mean?

Basically this means that an oxygen sensor in bank 1 detected a lean condition (too much oxygen in the exhaust). On V6/V8/V10 engines, Bank 1 is the side of the engine that has cylinder #1.

Note: This DTC is very similar to P0174, and in fact your vehicle may show both codes at the same time.

Symptoms

You will more than likely not notice any drivability problems, although there may be symptoms such as a lack of power, detonation (spark knock), and/or a hesitation/surge on acceleration.

Causes

A code P0171 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:

* The MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor is dirty or faulty. Note: The use of "oiled" air filters may cause the MAF to become dirty if the filter is over-oiled. There is also an issue with some vehicles where the MAF sensors leak the silicone potting material used to protect the circuitry.

* There could be a vacuum leak downstream of the MAF sensor.

Possible Solutions

Possible solutions include:

* In the vast majority of cases, simply cleaning the MAF sensor does the trick. Consult your service manual for it's location if you need help. I find it's best to take it off and spray it with electronics cleaner or brake cleaner. Make sure you are careful not to damage the MAF sensor, and make sure it's dry before reinstalling

* Inspect all vacuum and PCV hoses, replace if necessary

* Check for a dirty fuel filter and proper fuel pressure

OBD-II Trouble codes

and another from a Yaris forum:

Id say the most likely cause is the MAF sensor. Especially if there is a aftermarket intake. Oiled intakes such as K&N have been known to contaminated sensors. The oils get sucked on and stick to the sensor. Then the dirt sticks to the oils and builds up on the sensitive wire.

Im still thinking oil build up issues. Thats exactly what Charlie told me right from the start, a clean with elect cleaner than its ok again, then its gets oiled again over time, cleaned - ok again. I see a pattern here. Maybe try cleaning again and get a non oiled filter. Easy way to find out if thats the problem.

Also:

In new models the airflow meter has 2 main group of sensors incorporated in a single unit , being one the IAT and the other the AIR FLOW METER , the IAT sits on the outside and looks like a big DROP of syrup , cleaning this will make no diference in relation to the code ,

now if you look closely at the unit ,look deeply inside and you will see 2 little grey (car models will differ in color) zener diode "look alike" sensors These are the actual A/F meter components ,These are the ones to clean if you want to get rid of these problem,

Similar MAF but not the same as ours

Electric cleaner FTW!!...lol there was a fair bit of oil when i first cleaned the MAF sensor, now that i cleaned my air cleaner i put less air filter oil and seems to be working fine, also getting my o2 sensors are being cleaned by toyota on monday hopefully

[dwee.]

About oil in filters, I didn't feel any oil on the pod when I was reinstalling it.

[DJKOR]

Again, the oil contamination comes into play...

Not ruling it out completely, but just trying to give my own opinion and just that.

Sure an over-oiled filter can contaminate the MAF sensor, but the key here is the length of time required to do so. These check engine light issues were happening in a relatively quick timeframe. I've had an over-oiled filter in the past and I personally believe that it would have to be fairly over-oiled to the point that it was dripping oil when fitted for it to get that possibility of contaminating the MAF as quick as it has been occurring in the cases here.

In addition to that, the pod is located a bit of length down the from where the MAF is. If the filter was that over-oiled that it will contaminate the MAF that quick, you should be able to see some residue in the intake pipe leading up to the MAF. Maybe try disconnecting some of the pipework and inspect what it looks like on the inside.

I highly doubt the filter was over-oiled (if it even is) to the degree stated above so I wouldn't be thinking that it is causing the light to come on in such a short period.

Yeah I know this is all marketing material, but it's just another perspective on the oil thing:

http://www.knfilters.com/maf/3MAFSensorVideo.htm

[dutchie101]

Thanks Dwee, i forgot yours was playing up too! So we can eliminate the year issues. Thats one down.

There was noticeable oil in the bottom of my pod when i installed it. I instantly thought the filter was over oiled. Luckily i still havent had the light issue, but im expecting it ;)

Also notice CRC do a specific MAF cleaner, if anyone is interested, but im sure normal contact cleaner works just as well.

Oh, also, did everyone clean their piping and silicone hose before install? Mine was filthy (both the piping and the silicone) i thoroughly cleaned them out, and washed the silicone. Could also be other contaminants not just the oils. Im thinking metalic contamination too, such as fine particles..

Charlie has had an Injen longer than all of us....

Sorry for another Edit,

Daryl, i dont think K&N submerged that MAF deep enough into the oil for starters, the MAF sensor is far deeper in the unit than that dip. But you never know.. Also, i would think different MAF would have different durability/ sensitivities too, i cannot see how a fully fowled up MAF can read no prob, as its common knowledge that MAF get dirty and dont 'read' properly. And what does "ran awkward for a few cycles" mean?? Not good enough for me...

From evidence supplied by Charlie, i think he is right.

Im willing to stand corrected tho....

Edited April 26, 2010 by dutchie101

[shin0bi]

to all,

the maf sensor can only put on one way with this injen cai.

the silicon tube has a few specs of dust and particles on it but can these things trigger engine light? - if it does then i'll take it out and give it a nice wash.

the pod itself has some oil on it but just the cap end, the rest seems fine. but just in case i'll probably give a non oil-pod a try and see how that works.

i've cleaned the maf with electrical contact cleaner like 5 times now.

i use 98 ron.

resetted ecu like 50 times now.

and still engine light comes on. its a big pain in the butt.. toyota will conduct some test on my car this friday and we'll see if they can get it resolved once and for all.

like i said before, too many variable solutions.

just another thing i read on some random forum, some guy installed his injen cai on some other car and had the check engine light come on, he claims that putting on the hydroshield fixed his problem.. we tried that. no work lol

too many variable 'solutions'...

getting sick of this engine light....

[SILVABULLIT]

It's not that you guys have installed the MAF in the pipe wrong but moreso the MAF has to be a certain ditance from the throttle body. ZZE's were ultra sensitive to this as I"m sure ZRE's would be as well. Sound pressure waves off the throttle butterfly opening and closing can also make a MAF read funny. Heat transfer from the throttle body will also have a certain effect.

Everything you guys have done is right so far but what I am saying is that maybe Injen haven't got it 100% right.....

[dutchie101]

It's not that you guys have installed the MAF in the pipe wrong but moreso the MAF has to be a certain ditance from the throttle body. ZZE's were ultra sensitive to this as I"m sure ZRE's would be as well. Sound pressure waves off the throttle butterfly opening and closing can also make a MAF read funny. Heat transfer from the throttle body will also have a certain effect.

Everything you guys have done is right so far but what I am saying is that maybe Injen haven't got it 100% right.....

That was my next thought exactly. Kinda what i was thinking with the build year, maybe a certain batch of Mafs was more sensitive to the resonance of the Injen. Or at least, the resonance is disturbing those particular sensors. Another variable to throw in the mix... :)

[shin0bi]

thanks for the input silvabullit & dutch

its really frustrating..

knowing that charlies got it right and hasn't had a problem after just cleaning the maf. dont know where exactly the problem is..

here i thought it was it was the best money spent on the car so far may as well will be the worst..

thanks.

tom.

[Kenneth.]

I think you should definitely give a dry filter a shot.

[dwee.]

I think you should definitely give a dry filter a shot.

Yeah definitely. But I think we should see what happens with the testing from Toyota first (Thom). Might cancel out some variables..

Peter.

[johnnieboi]

Lol at tomee. Been the most problematic of us all. On sunday night, me and tomee both check our piping, checked our maf sensors, sprayed it, put hydroshield on, reset ecu. Went for recon cruise around mountains the next day. All day i pushed my zre. No light (knock on wood), but tomee's came on.

Maybe the models ecu's are different? Ascent to Levin ZR? But i doubt it.

But before we all go rushing forward.. lets see wat toyota says with their diagnostic hoo haa.

[dutchie101]

Apparently some older ECU's didnt match well with different/some MAF's, but i thought that problem was strictly a US thing... Still, you could be onto something there... Ahh, the variables!! :D

Still no light on for me, and im floggin it hard now!! Well, harder than before..

[dwee.]

Dutchie, how much have you driven since install??

[shin0bi]

Apparently some older ECU's didnt match well with different/some MAF's, but i thought that problem was strictly a US thing... Still, you could be onto something there... Ahh, the variables!! :D

Still no light on for me, and im floggin it hard now!! Well, harder than before..

weird how you installed cai and your exhaust without any light so far..

jskills has engine light on and off after getting a high flow cat...

just wierd...

[dutchie101]

I would say about 500km, i should have taken note but havent, but its been a hard 500km :)

Re no light after exhaust and Injen, thats why im thinking down the ECU path... Maybe the ZR does have different software.. I think mine is a July build if that matters. Ill check tomorrow.

[maca_10]

Hey guys

sorry to kind of hijack the thread but i didnt wana start a new one cause it is kinda similiar

I have been looking at the Injen website. What CAI model number did u buy because i have an 05 sportivo and want to know what is best.

According to the website, which is America, these are the model numbers:

- RD2082P (05-06 Corolla XRS)

- RD2076P (04 Matrix XRS)

- RD2075P (02-03 Matrix XRS)

Just want to know what will fit without me having to remove or change the position of the battery, fog lights, etc.

I simply just dont wana buy something that wont fit.

Thanks

[and1]

Hey guys

sorry to kind of hijack the thread but i didnt wana start a new one cause it is kinda similiar

I have been looking at the Injen website. What CAI model number did u buy because i have an 05 sportivo and want to know what is best.

According to the website, which is America, these are the model numbers:

- RD2082P (05-06 Corolla XRS)

- RD2076P (04 Matrix XRS)

- RD2075P (02-03 Matrix XRS)

Just want to know what will fit without me having to remove or change the position of the battery, fog lights, etc.

I simply just dont wana buy something that wont fit.

Thanks

Yes they all fit. As long as they are for 2ZZ. You could have bumped the pinned section..

[shin0bi]

UPDATE: after waiting 1 hr and a half at toyota to get the o2 sensor replaced.. turns out they couldn't get the o2 sensor out because it was too hard to get out and as a result did not continue to try as they were afraid it might snap trying to get it out.

so they are going to replace the entire exhaust manifold which will have a new o2 sensor in it, so they are going to order the manifold and i guess i'll have to keep driving with the engine light on...

not too sure if replacing the manifold will resolve the issue..

will keep you guys posted!

tom

[Ascendant Rice]

UPDATE: after waiting 1 hr and a half at toyota to get the o2 sensor replaced.. turns out they couldn't get the o2 sensor out because it was too hard to get out and as a result did not continue to try as they were afraid it might snap trying to get it out.

so they are going to replace the entire exhaust manifold which will have a new o2 sensor in it, so they are going to order the manifold and i guess i'll have to keep driving with the engine light on...

not too sure if replacing the manifold will resolve the issue..

will keep you guys posted!

tom

That sucks to hear bro :(

[xoom]

i love how toyota's lack of technical support works ..... lol ..... we'll just replace the whole manifold .... that will fix it ..... hey atleast they havent pulled out the zip ties and tried to convince u that they can solve ur issue with them ...... by any chance can they give u a code or ecu error .... something that we could use to work from ..... generally a CEL is also accompanied by an error code ..... that would go a long way into trying to work out if its something major or minor thats the issue .... i mean could be a simple as a dud sensor somewhere .... u just dont know ............ dont get so worked up and upset by this ..... this is the joys of modifying a car ;)

[SuperDave]

It's not that you guys have installed the MAF in the pipe wrong but moreso the MAF has to be a certain ditance from the throttle body. ZZE's were ultra sensitive to this as I"m sure ZRE's would be as well. Sound pressure waves off the throttle butterfly opening and closing can also make a MAF read funny. Heat transfer from the throttle body will also have a certain effect.

Everything you guys have done is right so far but what I am saying is that maybe Injen haven't got it 100% right.....

The MAF also doesn't like being on, or near, bends.

Any shots of the ZRE pipe?

[dwee.]

The MAF also doesn't like being on, or near, bends.

Any shots of the ZRE pipe?

Hrmmm..it's on the right side of the pipe.

[johnnieboi]

Light came on. Woot! FML <_<