Cv Joint Boot Failure

[kcorro]

Edited July 25, 2009 by kcorro

[MR22ZZ]

The bolt that I always have trouble with is the 3rd bolt on the rear suspension (the one you take out from the bottom) it's now a little rounded and I'm scared to take it out incase it never goes back on there again, or it rounds more and I can't even get it out.

[kcorro]

Edited July 25, 2009 by kcorro

[DANZZT231]

Good thing my CV still last till today.

[CHA54]

Yep Kaze sounds like another CV in a sportivo has gone. Maybe Toyota should do a recall. I blew both boots and cvs in my last car and drove it around for a year. Eventually you wheel lose steering and there is chance the cv may seperate which can be very dangerous. The stivo cvs and boots are very under engineered. Im thinking about getting them rebuild stonger (if thats possible). Here is a link that explains cvs

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Constant-velocity_joint

Take a look at your steering setup sometime.

A CV failure will not effect the steering in any way at all on a macpherson strut FWD toyota.

I dont consider a CV boot failure to be a broken CV. when the cage etc wears out it's broken.

If you're concerned abou the quality of the toyota boots there are plenty of aftermarket replacements available.

[SILVABULLIT]

100% right there Rollamods. Guys the problem seems to be with the boots not the drive shafts and CV's. I mean if Northy hasn't broken one then they must be pretty strong.(he drives harder than anyone I know :P ) the boot I had replaced was an inner boot as is the case with Northy's car.

For those who have pillow mounts you MUST keep them lubricated or else you will get this horrible clunking noise when you hit bumps or turn and go over a bump/gutter. Northy has one that is damaged from running dry and has worn a flat spot on the ball which then gives excess clearance. (also didn't help that Toyota didn't tighten a few things up properly <_< ) My suggestion is you get an oil can for a sewing machine with the sewing machine oil and once a month squeeze a few small drops into the pilow mount(where you can see the ball) to keep it lubricated. If you do that then you will have no problems. It also becomes worse after it has rained as it gets wet and the dirt/road grime gets thrown up from underneath etc etc so if you are aware of it then it shouldn't be a problem.

[KaZe-]

thanks all for ur comments!!

i got it fixed today no dramas it wasent a cv joint thingy and it wasent my spring hitting anything it was at the top where u know that little black thing wif numbers is?? LOL dont know wat its called

but yer i tightend it the other day both of them and drove to work tullamarine and they have bumpy roads and as usal it was clonging clicking wateva lol but when i got to work i poped up the bonnet and checked those number things and the front right one was ok thats the quiet one and the left one was LOOSE so i thought that the coil was pushing it up or spinnning when going so after work i went to my local mechanic not peddlers i thought they would charge me heaps and they wouldent know wats going on LOL so i told my freind at the mechanic wat was going on and he said he'd check it so i went to eat LOL and came back 30 mins later and it was fixed he said he took off the strut bar and the bolt that was under the black number thingy was loose so he tightened it and BAM! its quiet as a mouse now but my steering wheel is uneven it leans to the right?? so i guess i need a wheel alingment?? and a camber alingment right??

Cheers again

Steven, :)

[MR22ZZ]

yep, any time you take the strut out and you need an alignment.

can you take a pic of the part in question that needed tightening?

[KaZe-]

yep, any time you take the strut out and you need an alignment.

can you take a pic of the part in question that needed tightening?

lol ok ok icic

picture hrmm lol i have no camera!! LOL i moved houses few months back and lost my phone/pc cable LOL but yer u know the round black spin top thing wif numbers on it so u know how hard and soft u want it??

it is the bolt that is right under there :)

[MR22ZZ]

I have G4 as opposed to D2, I'm just looking for an idea on the comparative component on my suspension to look out for. A picture tells 1000 words ;)

EDIT: I think you mean the strut retaining bolt... it holds all the pillow mount stuff in place. That's where I thought the issue was, I've greased mine as well and the clicking has stopped when turning the steering wheel, but I still get some noises on bumps... will look further into it...

[KaZe-]

pics found on ebay but thats what had to be tighten i couldent tighten it by hand so he had to use a air gun

i have no noises from turning or bumps now even big bumps and little bumps the sound b4 today was so awful i swear i had to pump the music so i wouldent have to hear it it was that bad im serious!! >_<

Edited February 6, 2007 by KaZe-StiVo

[CORZZA]

that should never be tightened by an air gun!

[KaZe-]

my coil is fixed :) no more sounds well i think it was a air gun lol i was eating for 30 mins LOL but i couldent tigten it wif my hand so it should be a air gun not sure ill ask him 2mmorow

[MR22ZZ]

thanks Steve, that's the one I thought you meant :)

[Dead]

Hmm. I use Bill (xooms) car as a guide. His was lowered enough and the arms are on a perfect horizontal position. Lowering a little more should be ok, but you don't want the arms to be out too much definently.

[KaZe-]

thanks Steve, that's the one I thought you meant :)

np man i went to book for a wheel alingment today for friday cuz i got no money $45!! >.< arghh and i camber adjustment i think i hope my steering wheel is really annoying its lyk totally wacked!!

[MR22ZZ]

The place I go to costs that (in fact almost all places do) I went to a place that quoted me $40 and I'm never going back there again.

Make sure to tell them up front what settings you want the car at and what style of driver you are, ie if you want it for absolute grip or tyre life or a balance of both. Let them know you have coilovers and you want a certain camber... I find 1.0 to 1.2 degrees to be adequate for the street without excessive tyre wear.

[KaZe-]

The place I go to costs that (in fact almost all places do) I went to a place that quoted me $40 and I'm never going back there again.

Make sure to tell them up front what settings you want the car at and what style of driver you are, ie if you want it for absolute grip or tyre life or a balance of both. Let them know you have coilovers and you want a certain camber... I find 1.0 to 1.2 degrees to be adequate for the street without excessive tyre wear.

i want just normal straight?? wat number is that?? 0.0?

1.0 - 1.2 is that negative camber??

Cheers Steve.

[MR22ZZ]

normal camber is 0.8 degrees negative

Mine is at 1.2 degrees negative

straight? as in the car goes straight? that's all for the alignment to sort out, but you need to set the camber 1st before you adjust the alignment and toe as they all effect each other.

[KaZe-]

u got a millionwords picture of 1.2 camber for me?? :)

[CHA54]

1.2 camber seems to wear the inner edge of the tyres pretty quickly compared to standard.

[MR22ZZ]

1.2 camber seems to wear the inner edge of the tyres pretty quickly compared to standard.

I'll chase up the receipt and double check, but I've been checking my tyres regularly for the last few months since the alignment and it's been OK so far.

[CHA54]

are you running soft sticky rubber with stiff sidewalls? Mark's gone through a couple of sets in less than 20,000K's each from memory. Would have got more if he stripped the tyres from the rims and changed sides instead of the normal front to back rotation done with unidirectional tyres.

[SILVABULLIT]

I run about .8 negative for the street and have got just under 47 000k's out of my tyres. they have been rotated on rims every 10 000k's to even out tyre wear. I rotate them on the rims as they aren't directional.

[theDefiant1]

A CV boot failure on an '05 stivo with ~15000km on the clock. No signs of impact damage.

Why does this happen to me?

Not to mention this morning I had the car up on the supplied jack, was about to put the spare on (had a slow leak puncture), and that failed too. The convex nature of the door pushed me away (so i believe) before 1200kg of car fell down taking a nice divot out of the concrete floor in the garage. Had to get Bob Jane in for a call out - the car was going nowhere.

May tomorrow bring a better day.