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that's a general duties car so i doubt he'll even bother. All he wants to do is get back to the station before the damn detectives eat all the original glaze Krispy Kremes. hahahaa

bug Repco or AutoOne for a Haynes manual. They should have one for your model. Autobarn probably won't have it because it involves real auto mechanics. hehehe

or you should invest $10 on a bucket and brush to clean out that engine bay. hehehe

I couldn't find a pic or diagram of the 5SFE starter motor on google. but if you are standing in front of the car looking into the enginebay, the gearbox is to your right of the engine and the starter is bolted to the front/top side of engine where the block bolts to the bell housing of the gearbox. it should be near the shift linkage. Just try and picture where your flywheel is and it shouldn't be far from that. if you look at it carefully, it should be pretty obvious which is the starter motor. Edit: it should look similar to this and bolted to your engine/gearbox: hope this helps. P.S no idea where to get a reconditioned starter from. contact your local auto electrician and they might know.

I'm not sure where it is as i don't have an aurion...but it's usually labeled as the "ATT" wire on the back of the head unit. in most after market HU's, it's the single yellow wire. hope this helps. Edit: Ooops, correction. I think the "ATT" wire might be the antenna wire...I've confused myself now; it's been a few years since I installed an aftermarket HU. but it should still be a single wire

New pads are not part of any routine service. Toyota will check the pads for you but if they need replacing, they'll be quick to ask for more money. So you'll know if they've changed them. If you are lazy as your name suggests just get toyota to replace the pads with OEM's. They are fine for normal everyday driving and they'll last longer than any performance pad.

you need new pads. When was the last time you changed your pads and how many K's have you done since?/

hey. congrats dude. glad to see more active members with the new rolla. I've seen quite a few on the road but not many are members. Make sure you posts some pics of the installed spoiler.

awesome Mish. I see you kept your word and stayed in the Toyo family. You don't muck about, you where only talking about getting a new ride a few days ago. hehehe. Congrats on the ride. Bring it and the rolla to the next meet. hehehe

if you think the motor is turning but no engine crank, then you could have a broken tooth on the ring gear (part of your fly wheel). if you hear clicking and then an electrical hum then I'd say it's the starter motor solenoid. The contacts may be too dirty to make a good electrical contact. next time it doesn't start, if you know where your starter motor is, give it a few taps with a hammer (give it some force but not so that it will break something) and then try to start the engine. If that works then it's your starter motor. A good autoelectrician can bypass a bad solenoid by installing a starter relay as a cheap alternative to a new starter motor. BTW, is your car an auto or a manual. I had a ST162 with the 3SFE engine and i had a similar starting problems.

What year model car do you have? when you say the car was "Humming", do you mean the car was cranking over? i.e was it trying to start or did you just hear a click and then the starter motor trying to turn? if the later, then it could either be your battery or starter motor solenoid...etc

After reading this thread I tried "slipping" the clutch and I managed to do it too (lift from 1st to 2nd)...although it doesn't sound/feel like its any good for the car. Still its cool having your tyres chirp on gear change, I use to be able to do it sometimes in my old Paseo was joy So yes 1st to 2nd lift FTW Play with it a bit more, you dont need to chirp it to hit lift between gears. Just get a bit smoother. Yeah, i could do it smoother on the stock Bridgestones. I've got worn Nankang tyres so traction is somewhat lacking these days... Also, it's never happened before, i've got 70,000km on the stock clutch and just this weekend... 1st gear stuck! I jinx'd myself coz now i can't land lift. I guess i'm going to have to do the clutch adjustment now. doh!

The ABS would have annoyed you all day then. You can't really threshold-brake with the stivo's ABS...it's too intrusive.

I didn't the look of the EVO X as first, but after seeing what Subaru have to offer with the WRX, I reakon the Evo is as sexy as warm apple pie! LOL

spray some wd-40 into the linkage and keep stepping it in and out to work the lube in! where can i get the spray and how much. where abouts is the linkage? the linkage would be where the squeek is coming from (look at the pedals under the steering column). WD40 is oil-based lube you get in a spray can. It can be purchase from your local Bunnings, Autobarn, corner Korean supermarket LOL. just go lightly on the wd40, the stuff has a distinct smell and it's runny. put a little at a time.

the intake resonator was removed. There was no choice as it was blocking the entire cavity where the pod should sit. Ken, try undoing the clamp and see if you can force it down further. I can't remember what was in the way.

in order to post in this forum, i demand you stick a Toyota or TRD badge on the front of that car - good for 10bhp. hahahahaha

yeah, if i slide my finger across the skirt, it feels rough but in the apron its smooth. the apron kinda have have this mirror finish not like the skirt i painter and clear coated. am i meant to sand again after painting the base coat? sounds like you've got "dry-spray". are you using a spray gun or aerosole cans? the distance from the paint surface, how much paint flow, and how fast you fan accross the surface will determine how smooth your finish will be. Try some really fine grit wet/dry paper followed by a buff with some cutting compound (you'll have to let the paint cure for at least a week before you buff) you don't need to sand between coats nor do you need to sand before clear coating; it will dull the finish.

Hey mate =) I'm having trouble making out what i'm looking at in the pics. in the first pic, what is the darker piece (looks like the rear apron) They both look glossy to me. perhaps it's a colour match issue. The humidity and the way the metalic flakes face also affect the final finish.

I've driven a stock Mini (not the S) and stock-for-stock, unfortunately the mini out handles the stivo in all respects - sorry guys :(

As far as i know and what i have seen in some car loading video. They looks to be not even over 40km/h. But anyway, i think its true that the manufacturer has done most of the braking in themself when manufactuering already. most brand new cars have 80Km or less on them - i don't know how you can break-in an engine in less than 80km's. Unless you mean they run the engine in before it goes in the car. I thought they only start up the engine at idle speed as part of the QC process (birthing).

The rear looks about the same but the front looks like a warped VT Commodore. Why Subaru, WHY!!!?????? <_<

Geez! sorry to hear that man. it's a bummer your car will be off the road but the up side is that you'll get some fresh paint

hey dude. the pic of the Tien coilovers show adjustable sway bar links. Where did you get them from?

besides breaking in the engine, the tyres and brakes are brand spanking new. give them a chance to grain/wear-in before you give the car some "stick" don't worry about the car "learning" at the begining, just worry about proper break-in. a properly brocken-in engine will last longer and make factory HP for longer than a thrashed engine. You can always reset your ECU later. Also, the car will continuely make small adjustments as you drive to compensate for driving style and environment anyway. Have fun with the car when you get it. And Welcome