ZEEROLLA

I ordered mine today but will only arrive 10th March! How did you get that price? I thought D.S. sells it for $89.95, that is the price the place i am getting will match. Zee

You are running "Rich" air/fuel ratio. The lower the number the "Richer" and running "Rich" is better than running "Lean". Its just that fuel economy will probably suffer a little and power gain can be restricted slightly. The stock ECU is trying to compensate for the increase in air intake hence pumping more fuel to prevent detonation in the engine. If you are thinking of getting the max out of your engine then get an aftermarket ECU. Most turbo charged cars run very "Rich" when they start putting bolt-on mods and you can always tell when their exhaust is pumping greyish white smoke under hard acceleration. Zee

Nice time Dave! It doesn't come as a surprise to me and i have always felt the Stivo has the potential to do 14s especially with your mods! I'm sure you can better those times! I shocked a VX SS commodore owner for the first time the other day and beat him by half car length till 140km/h, twice! Did a decent tyre screeching launch and chirped 2nd gear so hard! His only comments in the end were "Is this thing stock?" and "lets try 0-200km/h" :D

My car felt perfect right after installation by Dave, had battery disconnected for about 2 hours, warmed the car up and ran great. But a few weeks later i had the hesitation at start up in stinking heat (30degrees plus). That was when i tried to drive off without warming the car up but the car didn't want to go. I also had idle problems (Once Only!). That was wierd and it never happened again. I use the TRD pod filter and Dave and i pushed the sucker so hard it must be all the up the pipe!! It clears the fog light.

I'M IN TOO!

Is your car brand new mate? Might just be the smell from new mechanical parts..

From what i remember when Toyota advertised the Stivo they did mention "Sports Suspension" and in Wheels mags they also mentioned it had 30 or 40 percent stiffer "Celica style dampers" or something like that. The springs are from the Levin. Now does the Levin have lower or stiffer springs as compared to other Corollas? Anyway aftermarket springs are still the way to go. If you want you can get the TRD setup on Bruce's website. Or another way is to get King's springs at stock height and i think they are stiffer. I have ridden in a Civic Vti-R with that and the ride is stiffer for sure but still looks tall.

Hey Vincent, i think it was roughly $80 and its setup according to Whiteline's specs just 1 degree neg which is nothing. You can choose to go higher, up to 1.5 neg. Hope to see u at Wakefield again sometime! Zee Hi Vincent, welcome to the forum! Were you in a Black wagon and we had a bit of fun for a couple of laps? You were pretty quick then and onto my tail.. I was abt to pull into the pits when i saw your car then thought i will have a little run with you but i couldn't get the car to turn in and brake.. but it was fun! Like you metioned that was a great day due to the amount of cars that turned out. Hope to see you again soon sometime! Cheers, Zee ← ←

I drive quite hard but the level is still ok. What sort of oil you using?

That's exactly how mine is. It's all the way at the top and I find it hard to get use to. i don;t like the feeling but it's better than not being able to shift. :D ← Guys this is making some sense cos i read somewhere that our symptom is called "clutch drag" and this is caused by too much clutch free play. I think the Toyota techies have adjusted the clutch to give it less free play but hopefully still within specs bcos too little free play can cause clutch slip. You guys say the friction point is now all the way up which makes me think there is very little free play.

Its not a recall from what i know but dealerships around Australia should know about it. For myself, i have brought the car to 2 different dealerships and they still failed to rectify the issue. All they said was they followed the specs on the technical bulletin and inspected/measured/adjusted my clutch pedal according to the specs. I doubt they fiddled with the master cylinder cos they couldn't fault the specs. I will be bringing the car in again for my 20K service and getting them to fiddle with the master cylinder specifically.

How'd you go Dave? I would have loved to be there but something more important than a dyno run on today :P

Hi there, Those times sound a bit off for the respective cars. I can't remember the exact issue, but I recall a similar test with different cars where they used the longer chicaned circuit at wakefield. The chicane is located on the uphill stretch after turn 1. Perhaps this explained the slower times? Some times i know of from friends and what not include: Dc2 Integra type R: 1:12.X completely stock- bridgestone re540s. S2000: 1:09.X unsure as to what mods, but it was still n/a and not a race car. civic vti-r: stock 1:19.X on old semislicks Mx5: NB 1.8 1:15.xx stock on street tyres. The quickest time i have managed on my stock corolla levin wagon is high 1:18 on street tyres. Although its more like consistent 1:19/20's after that flying lap because the street tyres sure take a beating. If i attack the ripple strips a bit more, should be able to squeeze in a low 1:18/17 lap!!! here's to dreamin'. ← That could be right Vincent cos i managed a 1min18 at the meetup you were there, with pretty tentative driving. I had a crack at 1min16 or 17s but unfortunately my car surged due to low fuel on the quicker laps. It only had a few suspension mods and everything else was stock so i reckon with a few more practice sessions i can get 1min17s easy especially now with the TRD CAI and hopefully i get the gearshifting issue rectified. But Wakefled is still a tough track for the Stivo and Celica with quite a lot of wheel spin in the chicane and when coming onto the straight losing a lot of time.

Hi Vincent, welcome to the forum! Were you in a Black wagon and we had a bit of fun for a couple of laps? You were pretty quick then and onto my tail.. I was abt to pull into the pits when i saw your car then thought i will have a little run with you but i couldn't get the car to turn in and brake.. but it was fun! Like you metioned that was a great day due to the amount of cars that turned out. Hope to see you again soon sometime! Cheers, Zee

Thanks for that info Peekay, i am constantly monitoring my CAI after every hard drive to make sure its ok. Cheers

I have the symptom where i just start my car especially in the afternoon when it is like 30plus degrees and i try to drive it doesn't want to go and surges. But after a couple minutes its fine. I tried checking the CAI today and it all looks okay but the rubber elbow and pod filter clamps were a little loose because i am paranoid about it splitting. I tightened it slightly today but haven't tested the car out yet. I have driven at full throttle a few times and the car feels good so it didn't sound an alarm bell. Fuel economy was crap when i first got it installed though but i recently clocked 700km on 50liters freeway driving so seems to have recovered. How tight do we need to tighten the clamps? The spitting sound you are hearing mike, is it the VSV sound because it is normal to hear it. Zee

Hi Leigh, TRD CAI depends on exchange rate so better to check with Bruce at TRDsales. Most people got it for around $500. The Unichip would be between $1200-$1400 dyno-tuned. Zee

My car somtimes surges in high gears too, below 3000rpm. But it is either the car is not warmed enough or the weather is hot as hell. Are you also using aftermarket air filters? The TRD CAI makes a loud wooshing sound when you turn the ignition off.

Great idea. These people really need the money and we should do our part.

I used a K&N panel filter b4 the TRD CAI and noticed a difference. But up top the CAI definitely wins hands down and it has the great induction sound. Especially at 6200rpm and above 7500rpm the car pulls effortlessly, in the past it runs out of breath earlier. Fuel economy seems to be better with the K&N panel filter and stock airbox.

Basically the Koni Sports Shocks can match either Koni/Kings or Whiteline Springs. The Whiteline setup is matched with control springs, front and rear swaybars, camber bolts, front strutbar, polyurethane bushes and new bump stops. Labour costs depends on how much stuff you want to have fitted and varies a lot so better to check with your workshop. Zee

Imek - You can purchase TRD stuff from Bruce @ TRDsales.com He is very helpful and has many international customers. Cougs - I got Whiteline stuff from Revolution Racegear Wollongong and they shouldn't be expensive. Some other places also sell Whiteline products, just have to ask around but make sure they are genuine. With prices you can visit the Whiteline webstore and get a rough idea so you won't get too ripped off. Try these websites: Suspension parts info Whiteline

Its interesting that at Wakefield i don't get ABS kick in much, only when i brake really late especially when coming down a slope, and that is when the car doesn't want to stop and just understeers. I agree the ABS is only a safety device and its best not to use it for braking performance. In the snow or wet its different though..

I thought the Whiteline rear swaybar is 22mm? The same as the TRD unit. It definitely is thicker than stock and slightly heavier. Coughs do you mean strut bars or strut inserts? Whiteline only have a front strut bar. If you want a rear strut bar you need to get the TRD unit. Whiteline don't make their own struts or shocks, they use Koni Yellows adjustable shocks in their kits. The fronts are externally adjustable via the strut tops and the rear would require you to remove the wheels i think. They do have coilovers though if you have the greens, around $3000 but this setup is excellent.