jeffy

Cigarette Lighter

PHAT 😮!

try shaving some bits of plastic off the grill

+1 for good tyres, combo them with good brake pads as well Maintain good levels of fluids, id also suggest a rear sway bar and replace all bushes to polyurethane Happy Modding !

id go 2.5" with no cat, and for your muffler - to reduce rasp, make sure your muffler has bends inside rather than a straight through muffler, maybe even get a bee-r revlimiter ? haha setup i have atm is 2.5" stainless steel with mandrel bends, 100cel cat and a (sized as close to oem) straight through muffler (also have intake and headers) i get some crackles if i let off around 3000rpm and some pops sometimes when i shift 😛 - its droney sitting on 2900 on the fwy, i guess a resonator would fix it -its raspy because of the straight through muffler choice

+1 on checking bearings could be also worn bushes

does the fan still blow on lowest setting ? and do you mean not blowing cold air ? -check if a/c needs to be regassed

17's cheaper than 19's imo no experience with 4x4s sorry, however you try hilux/navara dedicated forums best of luck !

high tensile bolts from bunnings

+1 for gates im using it for the camry right now

ive experienced the same thing a week ago on a warm humid day. when i ran a/con max fan speed, it started to do the same and then blink.. then stopped blowing cold air... a few minutes after i decided to use the 3/4 fan speed... it was consistent.. but then the temperatures started to rise. so i stopped using a/c ive been advised to rebleed the radiator with heater on as there may be air bubbles

wow ! you guys have good oil usage ! ive used the 20w50 for about a year or so (and change every 5000kms) , as my engine has high mileage. ive noticed that i burn the same amount as zains camry at 1500 =\ .. so now i change every 3000kms .. high mileage life 😧 (engine has done 310,xxx kms)

http://australiancar.reviews/2AZ-FE-engine.php

5w30 10w30 15w40 20w50 the one you are using now is fine.

car has been converted into manuels ben, so that silver card will indicate u151 or whatever auto box it had 😛 its deffs an e354 series as the v6 models uses the e153 series its not so bad, you get what you pay for, seems like its DIY-able, and the "stuff " inside the gearbox, could be your syncros and bearings - which is pretty much a rebuild afaik.. at this stage... not really, i dont quite like the newer models and how everything is electronic-y - the only other car is till have my eyes on is a supra.. :) .. toyotafanboyforlife 😛

indeed they are, and they're also easy to break... im on my 3rd one atm,.. and have given up on replacing it, just have it plugged in for the central locking to work 😛 good idea !

you cant, but, however i can do that for you /end thread

hello and welcome ! what badge is your camry (sportivo/azura or altise) reason i ask is i think the ECU is different, and some of the sportivo display functionalities (kms left, distance to.. etc) wont work on the altise. did you get the remote from eBay ? some ebay wireless keys may not work for audm models.? also these cars never came in keyless afaik ..

did further reading and saw that 09-13 corolla matrix (zre152 chasis) uses the 2az and e series combo 😄 and they even have an AWD version 😮 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_E_transmission#E35x https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_Matrix shooting blanks from the UK ... i think i might just go USA, i think these should fit 😣 https://www.ebay.com/itm/OBX-ATB-Helical-LSD-Differential-Fits-05-10-tC-08-15-xB-2-4L-DOHC-5-Spd-M-T-/182603969289 https://deftmotion.com/quaife-atb-helical-lsd-differential-toyota-scion-tc-e350-xb-2nd-gen-5-speed/ would you know anyone local (au) that do LSDs ?

you're absolutely right ! had to double double check it seems like i was reading a catalouge from an "avensis" , thanks ian ! now i know that those corolla boxes still wont fit, may have to further check the ones from the scion

Hi Ben damn ! a1rm for your car is expensive ! ... i got mine for $120 at brakesdirect... so roughly 60% of the price difference is worth it for me so i can hard brake and not boil the fluid after the 3rd lap as for fluid, im using rbf600 at the moment (some motorbike [$32] shops may sell them cheaper than autoparts [$42 -autobarn] shops), back on the previous setups i was using standard dot 3 fluid, it is expensive, but it is what is, you get what you pay for, ive heard some users buy those really high boiling point racing ones for $130-150 a bottle ? wow 6 year break ! good luck and have fun when you get back on ! as for the rotors no need for dba t3 4000 they are quite expensive (although ive checked the prices now and they've dropped 50% compared to 4 years ago), just look for high carbon content ones (vmax rotors? i think theyre called?) they've been recommended by two track users, ive also considered using these next as the t3's i have right now are lipping, and if i machine them, im scared theyll be too thin for use ofaggressive pads (from previous experience having a1rms on rda rotors will just make the dimpled/slotted discs into a solid looking one lol, obviously not instantly but it helped me decide to skip the dba t2 and go straight onto the t3 series) yeah the kms around there .. blowing smoke, i suspect its the piston rings, its burning oil as i need to top up oil around 1500kms nowadays ... it needs a rebuild haha ! yeah everyone does the 2az there because of the scion xB/tC variants, so if i need to look for engine parts thats what i have to type, so thanks to them , some of the research required or info is there as for the LSD, ive found a few helical ones, theyre from the USA, and was quite tedious to track down, as ive just figured out that the 03-08 corolla 2L matrix, shares the same e354 5-peed box, i could also use the scion xB/tC ones as theyre also 5speed same engine, but i need to double check and confirm if the LSD will fit the plan is to buy a spare block and build it from bottom end, so some cams maybe some pistons, also a turbo to slapped on as there are now kits from the USA, specifically Dezod motorsports, that include ECU and map tunes.

haha i hope it isnt too !, although it is quite difficult to judge via computer speakers, lets see what the dealership has to say :]

its a long shot, it could be drive shaft ?

would you know of any tuners in melbourne ? ive got some questions on the vvt

Thanks Ben ! Thoughts so far: 21°C -22°C beautiful blue skies and sunny day damn ive missed the whole track experience, the people, the cars and the vibes ... it feels good car felt great ! had the car aligned fronts at -3° camber, (a number which other alignment places couldnt get for some reason ? ) 12 clicks from soft the first two sessions, then 15 clicks from soft on the remainder (i only had -2.5° and -2.4° on previous setups, as to which till now, the setup remains the same) i may try doing 20 clicks in the future (which is 2 from stiff) also with the new exhaust, i can actually hear the car... while rev matching and heel-toe-ing through the track, different and now more fun comparing to driving around quietly previously for years 😛 1st session - lines had air in them, pedal was going through the floor when braking, not what you want after 4 years of coming back - maybe thats why i was scared the whole day LOL ... not to worry, we bled it right after the session(thanks for the help hauhau!) and she bit the first time in the first corner off the pits in the 2nd session 4 years since ive last driven on track, tbh - i was scared .. i havent felt this kind of scared in a long time... a good kind of scared though i was braking around the 75m mark or earlier in some corners [got scared lol], when i know the car has potential to brake around the 25/50m mark or later shouldnt be comparing remsa to a1rm, but what ive found, under hard braking on the 3rd lap remsa looses its bite, considering its 550°C vs 780°C , although for the price; you are correct, it is cheap ($50), cheaper than daily bendix general ct pads actually (i paid $75)... which is interesting since on a spirited run .. the bendix will cook vs the remsa wont i prefer using a1rms, so ive put a set aside a set for other track days, i guess ill be using the remsas on the street as they dont cook like the bendix daily pads, may also get new rotors, as if i machine the current ones, im afraid they'll be too thin on the track Its been resurfaced roughly two years ago. (ive been told, although i dont quite remember the old surface) i am now looking for an LSD to fit the gearbox... i feel the car "struggle" on turns 8-10 ... sooo an LSD would be nice 😄 would love to go back again soon 😛 Heres a pic: As for the dyno figure, at that time as per mentioned; it is what it is,.. everything was stock, factors to be considered would be: its a roller dyno, if i were to use a hub dyno the reading may have been closer ? the dyno could have had high reading ? dyno days are also weather dependent to a certain extent, IIRC the day was raining... so it was coolder ive also read that you can "cheat" dynos by not strapping down the car ? is there drivechain loss difference between manual/auto ? there are "IN@RR" Modes that can change the readings. or more ? Thanks for looking ! -jeffy