Hiro

hmmm, are you sure that it would do that? i heard that the ZRE manuals doesnt have anything that prevents this sort of events from happening...? Congrats on getting it fixed mate B) Evo There isn't a physical thing that prevents it, just the extreme differences in gear speeds so that the synchros have trouble making the gears mesh. Try coasting along at 100km/h or so with the clutch in, and then try and select first or second (as long as you keep the clutch in the engine won't over-rev) - it will be bloody hard, if not impossible. Hell, shifting into first above about 30km/h is hard enough, let alone at 100.

Drive for longer than 100km, the further you drive the less effect the inaccuracy in the fill volume will have on the result. Process is thus: Completely fill tank Drive for X kilometers (the larger X is, the better) Completely fill tank Measure number of litres put into the tank, L Divide L by X and then by multiply by 100, and you'll have a L/100km figure. Or, divide X by 100, then divide L by that number) ie: Drive for 500km, and it takes 40L to fill the tank (40/500)*100 = 8L/100km

To me the Evora is the new Esprit, and the old Esprit had a 3.5L V8 that redlined at 7000rpm....then again, it was also twin-turbo

Knock sensors can't "detect" the octane rating of the fuel. Generally what they do is advance the timing (within a certain range, which is why you still have to set base timing separately) until knock occurs, and then retard it slightly until knock goes away - rinse and repeat. They're a dumb sensor, in that all they do is just output a voltage when excited in a particular way, the ECU does all the calculations and control. So generally you should up your base timing slightly (with the diagnostic terminals bridged to stop auto-advance) to account for the higher octane fuel (which burns slower, hence you want spark earlier), even though the knock sensor and ECU will cause the advance to automatically move depending on knock.

IS350 doesn't have supercharger... oh really?? i always thought they were running the 2GR-FSE. ive been watching them on youtube y are they so damn quick then? They are running the 2GR-FSE.....the S stands for direct injection, not Supercharger. Z is the ID for a supercharger, so technically the TRD Aurion engine is a 2GR-FZE (if they've given it an official engine designation, which I doubt, as they didn't give one to the 7AFTE AE112 Sportivo)

IS350 doesn't have supercharger... Wouldn't matter anyway as the Nagari uses a transaxle so wouldn't be able to use a normal FR RWD gearbox.

You CAN'T add lift anyway because you don't have cams :P [sacrasm]Oh I thought I did, noes. See I'm a typical blonde ho who know's f/a about cars.[/sarcasm] [sarcasm]Gee, if only I'd put a pokey-tongue emoticon at the end of my post to show that I was being facetious/silly[/sarcasm]

I'll take the Nagari with supercharged 2GR and manual :P if they ever make it (some people keep saying that it'll only be auto because thats what the TRD Aurion has, which means bugger-all)

The length of the intake path is most likely what is being affected, a proper factory CAI would be tuned-length (like extractors etc can be "tuned-length" Vacuum which is important is created after the throttle body in the plenum, as long as that vacuum is greater than the inlet vacuum then it doesn't matter, but any vacuum created in the intake tract is going to peg what you can achieve on WOT - if your intake has restrictions which drop it's pressure down to 0.8atm (ie 0.2atm vacuum) then the smallest amount of vacuum you can get in the plenum is 0.2atm (because the inlet will be "sucking" it back out through the throttle), but at WOT you want as little vacuum as possible because you want as much air as possible going into the engine This is worth reading, it shows you the difference between in-line resonators and T'd resonator as well. Autospeed article on inlet resonators

Exactly. It may be less than double, it may be more The engine will have to work harder, yes. Remember that RPM is not directly related to throttle position, you can rev a car quite highly with very little throttle if there is no load. It helps if you break it down into two bits: to go from 2000rpm to 4000rpm you will need more throttle to get the extra air in (assuming no increase in load), and then on top of that you will need extra throttle to make more power to overcome the extra load created by drag etc. If that doesn't work, think of it this way - you're pushing a box at a certain speed, which requires a certain amount of force. If you double the speed at which you are pushing, you have to double your effort, but then imagine that someone is pushing harder against the box in the opposite direction in relation to how fast the box is going - you have to push extra to overcome that load as well. In that analogy, the box is the engine, the speed is RPM, the effort you put in is fuel consumption, and the person pushing against the other side is drag. That analogy ignores VE though, but you'll get the picture that there is a lot more to fuel consumption than engine speed - load, drag and throttle position are just as critical.

You CAN'T add lift anyway because you don't have cams :P

Umm, aren't the resonators before the throttle body? In which case, the intake will be at atmospheric pressure? If anything, you want the intake tract before the throttle to be as free of pressure drops as possible. Any vacuum that is present in the inlet tract will always be there regardless of throttle opening, which means at WOT you'll still have slight manifold vacuum, which you don't want.

No, it won't be linear. Things like VE will change with throttle opening, load will be increasing non-linearly too (drag is either exponential or related to the square of your speed, can't remember which)

As an aside, I've re-used the sump washer on my AE102 probably a dozen times, whilst this is probably not a good idea it hasn't leaked a drop, so it's not the end of the world if you re-use it as long as it isn't split or cracked or perished.

When entering the roundabout, you indicate left if going left (and in the left lane), nothing if you are going straight ahead (left or right lane), and right if you are going right or all the way around the roundabout (right lane, note this is assuming a normal 4-way two-lane roundabout). Most people get this right. When you pass the exit BEFORE the one you are going to take, you cancel whatever indicator you have on and then indicate left to tell the people waiting to enter the roundabout that you are about to exit. This is what most people fail to do, because the law was brought in after the majority of them got their license.

Well not exactly true. In fact you can buy complete engines manufactured in China. You can buy just about any part for Toyota engines that were in production during the 1980s. My father actually has a Chinese 4Y (2.2) in his 4wd Liteace that originally only came with a 3Y (2.0). I think it has done about 30,000kms. Engine its self is still fine, but there are a few little quirky things about the carburettor. The thing was, it was cheaper in the long to buy a new engine ($1000 for the engine $200 for the carbie) than to rebuild an already tired engine. I've heard of complete Chinese 3RZ copies too, and not many good words about them

Rooted suspension = bumpy ride Bumpy ride = jiggly chesticles Said chesticles = photos already been posted

*bangs head on desk* And how many litres is each putting in? Who's to say his fuel light comes on at the same time as yours? Using the fuel light as an accurate measure is total crap, you could be seeing another 5L variation right there, which is around 10% of the tank size, significantly affecting resuts. The fuel light in my AE102 comes on between 35 and 40L, but it comes and goes at first depending on the attitude of the car (ie slopes/acceleration affect it). It will only come on permanently after a good 100km of driving. L/100km people, L/100km (or km/L if you prefer). No point using anything else

Would actually look pretty good if it weren't for the tail-lights. I've yet to see an aftermarket tail-light that looks good on an AE10x, and there are some out there which are absolute shockers (especially ones where the centre garnish is replaced as well)

Driving habits that ***** me off 1) Going X km/h in an X+20 km/h zone 2) Failing to indicate when merging 3) Failing to indicate when changing lanes 4) Failing to indicate when turning into a sidestreet 5) Failing to indicate when entering and/or exiting a roundabout 6) Actually indicating when turning into a sidestreet but leaving it until they are _actually_ turning 7) Turning into a sidestreet but not pulling over into the shoulder/turning lane fully, thus making the left-hand lane slow to a crawl for no reason 8) People who can't keep left 9) People who sit side-by-side on the speed limit on a two lane road with little other traffic, FFS slow down or speed up and get in the left lane 10) Failing to turn off indicator after making a gentle corner 11) Driving with fog-lights during daylight/non-foggy hours 12) Driving with HIGH BEAMS on during daylight hours/at night in traffic) 13) Tailgating ... ... ... The list goes on. I probably see 80% of that list every single day on the way to and from work. I swear Newcastle drivers have got to be close to the worst in the state, if not the country. And before Sydney people say that their drivers are worse, come up here and experience Newcastle drivers.....you'll be surprised how curteous and skilled the average Sydney driver is in comparison

Pros: Handles well Still looks good after 10 years Fairly luxurious Not that un-common for parts Cons: 1GFE is painfully underpowered for the chassis It's going to be a lot more expensive to repair than a Camry

This is what I got done for the AE102 (well, Davo got it done and I bought it off him when he sold his car). Didn't cut the shaft at all (means you don't have to muck around with welding or cutting a new thread), had to space the shifter housing up with some washers and cut some of the plastic away. Reduced the throw significantly, made it a little notchier and harder but much faster to shift, and because it's spaced up the height hasn't changed too much.

yes, i want to know as well, thinking about getting one. It will ever so slightly improve your fuel economy as it's helping your car become more efficient. Keep in mind as soon as you start modding cars, you tend to drive them harder negating any gains you might have made :P My CAI has resulted in worse fuel consumption, but that would partly be attributed to driving style. Remember that cold air = more dense air, so for the same throttle opening you will be inducting more air into the engine so the ECU will dump more fuel in to keep the AFRs even, thus for the same throttle openings as before you will use more fuel, but also make more powerful. Either you will learn to use less throttle to achieve the same acceleration as before, or will use the same throttle to achieve faster acceleration (thus using more fuel). A CAI may improve efficiency (as cars run better on colder air), but remember at the same time they are making more power so overall the fuel consumption may well rise

Rev-limiter only affects injection/ignition/timing (depending on the car), the motor can still physically spin faster if another source (ie not combustion) is providing the driving power.

would of been a very expensive toyota but think of it.... if it was toyota there wont be as much in cabin luxuries so therefore price drop :) Actually it's the inbuilt cost of the chassis that would be the prohibitive factor. Ford had the same problem over in the US when they were designing the current Mustang, they had an excellent RWD chassis in the form of the DEW (a Lincoln/Jaguar platform) but it was too expensive to use for the Mustang, so they had to significantly redesign it as the D2C platform to make it cheap-enough to use for the mass-produced Mustang. Of most significance is the switch from double-wishbone rear end to live-axle, and the use of C1 (ie Focus, Mazda3, Volvo) suspension parts up front to keep costs down.