DJKOR

The 5 SMD ones should give sufficient light for parker use. If you want something bright, you can try one of the ones that use 25 SMD LED's like this: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/2pcs-T10-168-194-25-SMD-SMT-LED-HID-White-Wedge-Bulb_W0QQitemZ190387978756QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_Car_Parts_Accessories?hash=item2c54020204 I have used them before and these fit into the parkers just perfectly. In my opinion though, all the SMD style ones are a bit of a hit and miss when it comes to the parkers. The reason for this is that they are a bit more sensitive to heat and do have a tendency to die a little easier. After you change them a few times, you start to get fed up of it. What I use, despite them not being the brightest ones out there, are the ones with a single 10mm LED. They are bright enough to be noticed which is what I care about really since when your head lights are on, they are only there for looks. The reason I go for these ones is that they have a higher tolerance for heat and then to last and last when used as the parkers. The ones I'm referring to are these ones: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/2-X-T10-194-168-501-White-LED-Side-Light-Car-Wedge-Bulb_W0QQitemZ190384987818QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_Car_Parts_Accessories?hash=item2c53d45eaa Yeah they sure look crap, but they have a much larger chance of lasting. If you want something with a bit more brightness in the parkers, try to steer clear of the SMD ones if you can. Just because of that heat issue I was referring to above. Even ones with 5mm or 3mm LED's would be worth a try. For my current car, I have ordered and just fitted T10 LED replacements that use 9 x 3mm LED's. I'm curious to see how these ones go, and to show that I am not overly confident in them, I bought 3 pairs just in case. These are the ones I got: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/2pcs-Super-Bright-White-9-LED-Wedge-194-T10-168-Accord_W0QQitemZ320504343985QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_Car_Parts_Accessories?hash=item4a9f8c2db1

Welcome Wellsie. Hope you enjoy your new Camary All in good fun mate.

news link is here http://smh.drive.com.au/motor-news/toyota-eyes-v6-hothatch-20100413-s7a1.html Well, seems like they feel like completely dropping the TRD Corolla idea. I guess it is more cost efficient to stick with something that is already in production. I wouldn't mind buying a Blade though as a car to toy around with. Would be fun I reckon.

The headlights are H11. If you aren't getting HID's, then you won't be referring to things like colour temperature ect as this term is only used properly for HID's. If you have the money and want something bright, have a shop around for OSRAM Nightbreakers. These have been said to give a fairly good light output in a stock bulb layout.

I'm not talking about engine movement here mate. I'm more than competent enough to tell the difference between normal engine movement within the engine bay compared to the transmission engaging and actually moving the car... especially when it is a one off occurrence. I actually mean the car physically rolled forward under power of the engine. As in enough force to push it over one of those metal speed bump things if I was right behind one without my foot on the brake. And if you read, we were mucking around and if you're not aware, I had an intake and exhaust on my last Aurion so it wasn't exactly quiet. Anyways, this was a one off occasion and never happened again. The car was driven pretty hard prior to that occurring, so it could have just been an issue with the transmission not disengaging correctly. It certainly wasn't safe for it to engage when in neutral, but it's not something that anyone should come across in the first place.

Those prices quoted are Recommended Retail Prices from Toyota genuine spares since Adamsy works for Toyota. You should be able to get them from your local Toyota spare parts division for that much or better, and if they try to charge you more, just say you will go elsewhere because you have seen them sell for such and such.

I guess I got one of the better deals out there. Talk about lucky. 3500SL... 18,000km on the clock, still under factory warranty with Toyota Service Advantage, immaculate... and under $36k. Sometimes you can be lucky.

If anyone is interested, I can vouch for this 1ZZ. It is absolutely immaculate. More information here: 2005 TRD Supercharged Levin For Sale in Brisbane

I haven't had the scenario you speak of but a very similar one. Just once only though... out of the many thousands of k's the car had travelled. When I was in Sydney earlier in the year for one of their Villawood meets, we headed over to Olympic Park. On the drive out, we got stuck at a set of lights. Everyone was revving their engine for fun, so I put mine into neutral and hit the accelerator a couple of times. First time was fine, but the second time I hit it, the car actually jumped forward a little as the revs got close to the peak of the "blip" that I did. I was like WTF!!! I only had my brakes applied just enough to hold the car there (to have less heat transfer) and when the car jumped, it sure gave me a bit of a fright.

Coming along nicely Steven. Now you have to take her out to one of our meets while I am around.

All good. Just don't want those without knowledge on the subject to panic that their gears are getting destroyed when they aren't. A freshly adjusted foot brake from Toyota tends to be around 3 clicks till tight. They always seem to do it up like this for me, despite the manual stating 5-7 clicks. Over time though, things start to stretch/loosen so it will eventually get to 5-7 clicks though. But yeah, it's normal to have 3 clicks till tight depending on who at Toyota adjusts your brakes. Edit: LOL, I knew I said something before: clunk in my gearbox clunks when changing from park to reverse

Well, I think your answer is here: TRD Supercahger Package for 1ZZ

Yay! You got them. Sweet.

You now click on the 'Insert Media' button at the end of the row where your bold, italic etc is. Then you insert the full YouTube address. It replaces the youtube tag with a media tag and uses the full address instead.

Exactly what Zerko said with respect to a locking pin. It's not actually the effect of any form of gear jamming up as has also been mentioned but its the locking mechanism that all the weight is put on. If you would like to learn more, have a read here: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/automatic-transmission11.htm Anyways, in posts in the past as well, it has been said by others as well that the Aurion does tend to roll a little backwards after the park brake is applied. This is primarily due to the park brake design. My recommendation when parking on an incline would be as follows: 1) Come to a complete stop. 2) Put car in neutral 3) Engage park brake fully 4) Release normal brake slowly 5) Let car roll back/forward a little. If it rolls too much, you definitely have to get your park brake adjusted. 6) Once your foot is fully off the brake and your car is stopped completely by the park brake, put the shifter into Park.

Well I had no control over this, but my 'alarm' and Data DOT stickers were removed before my windows got tinted. If they are stuck to the inside of the car, I'd recommend removing them and not tinting over them.

Depends on how serious some of the stone chips are. My Sportivo was pitted with them when I was considering a re-spray. But it also looked like it may retain the little dents even if it was to be re-sprayed. Sometimes replacement is the only way to go.

Was on ACA today:

Looks sweet mate. It's a double win. Good looking wheels, plus great grip.

I must say, of all the Aurions that have changed their mufflers, yours had come out different... but really good in my opinion. As you put your foot down while you take off, yours has this 'gurgle' (for lack of better word) to it that actually doesn't sound that bad.

Pics or it didn't happen Can't wait to see them mate. Good choice in tires as well. I wish I could put some of them on my TRD. I was so used to them.

Hey Nina. She sure handles much better than Sam did. Still has the annoying loud sliding issue with those smooth surfaces that cover a fair bit of Springbrook. Still holds her place on the road though... just a bit of slide with lots of tire squeal. The cruise that night was alright, but got a stupid whinny little P plater b*** having a go at me on Boostloosing because I was tailing her around the mountain for a little. Stupid girl though it would be wise to go up the front where it's obvious what people do at the front.

It is true that the Aurion has been given 15,000km service intervals. For most people out there who drive these cars like the majority of Camrys out there, they would be able to get away with this long interval in my opinion. But also in my opinion, I would recommend doing an oil and filter change at half those intervals... so every 7,500kms. It's always better to be on the safe side of things. Changing your oil and filter at this frequency will certainly NOT do any bad for the engine so you will only be doing it good for it. Personally, changing the oil any more frequent that this would be a bit of a waste, but each to their own on that side of things.

Odd name, but these are the side skirts: 75851-06907 MOULDING, ROCKER PANEL, RH 75852-06907 MOULDING, ROCKER PANEL, LH Skirts only, no mounting hardware.

Just call up a few spare parts departments both locally and interstate. When you enquire for the spare parts, there shouldn't be much variation on the retail price of them. If you even know the right people, you can save a bit of coin by getting them at their listed price. Either way, when you call up, here are the part numbers: 52119-06934 COVER, FRONT BUMPER (This is just the bumper, no skirt, no grill, no number plate holder, etc) 76851-06904 COVER, FRONT SPOILER (This is the skirt that attaches to the bumper. Does not contain all the pieces to attach it to the bumper)