DJKOR
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Everything posted by DJKOR
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With the amount of power that the Aurion has (not saying it's great, but high enough for what I'm talking about), stalling it up past 2k is not really beneficial unless you are running slicks or something. I would say not to bother unless you plan on solely taking off fro a standstill.
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Spotted Lawrence heading North on Sandgate Road just then. Sorry if you tried to wave, I was pretty much zoned out and only consciously processing everything in front of me.
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You do know the spark plugs cost me only $84 for those same ones you have? :S You do realise he mentioned "spark plug replacement" so he isn't saying the spark plugs themselves cost $250. Chance are the plugs cost around $150 or so and they added $100 for the labour involved in that. So realistically, the difference is not as huge as you make it seem.
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Aurion average fuel consumption approximation
DJKOR replied to DJKOR's topic in Aurion / TRD Aurion Club
For the sake of keeping a record of this, I figured I may as well post an update here. As usual, my spreadsheet is available by clicking on the following link: TRD Fuel Consumption (Excel Spreadsheet) - At 5313km, my total fuel used was 500.99L and my average fuel consumption was 9.43L/100km - At 9532km, my total fuel used was 909.91L and my average fuel consumption was 9.55L/100km - At 17650km, my total fuel used was 1685.71L and my average fuel consumption was 9.55L/100km - At 29083km, my total fuel used was 2837.00L and my average fuel consumption was 9.75L/100km - At 43105km, my total fuel used was 4230.59L and my average fuel consumption was 9.81L/100km - At 64746km, my total fuel used was 6378.71L and my average fuel consumption was 9.85L/100km - At 86030km, my total fuel used was 8495.35L and my average fuel consumption was 9.87L/100km - At 118548km, my total fuel used was 11582.39L and my average fuel consumption was 9.77L/100km Considering that over the car has travelled 136,909km since it rolled off the production line, has not had a single wheel alignment since it was purchased, and has not had any services done out of the ordinary logbook related items, I would say that it is doing quite good considering that the fuel efficiency of this car was rated at 10.9l/100km combined cycle. Heck, that's even better than the non-TRD which is rated at 9.9l/100km. On a side note.... nearly $18,000 in fuel over two years. Wow. -
You have misinterpreted the triangle. You can have: Fast and Reliable... but it won't be cheap. Reliable and Cheap... but it won't be fast. Cheap and Fast... but it won't be reliable. Those are your three options. You want fast and reliable and with your budget and your budget is too low. Stop focussing on power. I can not stress this enough. For the money you are wanting to spend, you are not going to gain much (if any) in the power department. Put your money towards handling mods like suspension (springs/shocks or coilovers), rear sway bar, and front strut brace. Search the forum here for brands that people know and trust and see what they make for your Camry. Whileline and Ultra Racing are just two names that come to mind. Also, may as well stop using Premium 98 and move to Premium 95.... unless you are buying BP Ultimate (as this has additives in it that may help keep things clean). The jump from 95 to 98 is only going to end up costing you more in the long run for no extra gain and from the sounds of things, saving money would be the better option for you.
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Indeed.
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Just start off with the better tires. You are approaching it the most expensive way for something that can be remedied with a more cost efficient approach. Work on your driving technique too. If I can launch my TRD in the wet, then surely a lesser powered Camry isn't rocket science.
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If you are wondering how this is done, then maybe this is not a task for you to be performing. Common sense should tell you where you need to be looking if you want to change this (or at least spend the 5 minutes required to visually inspect this). Edit: Make that 2 minutes... and that included the time taken to walk out of my office to the car and back.
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Kind of waiting for an update really. To be honest, I have been so busy with work (and stressed out too) that I haven't had time to even put thought into this meet. I don't know how things will be looking a few months from now despite the fact I already have my leave booked in.
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That image you quoted was a photo taken of the spark plug that came out out my engine which was fitted at factory. It was the stock DENSO part. If you think it looks fatter, take a macro shot of your plugs from and compare it, because things look different when comparing an enlarged photo to the actual part. On that note, looks like Toyota have changed their packaging (not that it matters) because when I ordered my first set of plugs directly from Toyota spares, they came in DENSO branded packaging. Shame they didn't change the price to a better one while they were at it.
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I don't think a swap would simply cut it since the amount spent on doing said mod is more than a new TRD steering wheel is probably worth.
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Does anyone look at the FAQ's anymore or should I delete it?
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Basic steps to get you going should you choose to DIY. Difficulty: Frustrating Swear Factor: Extremely high Notes: I would advise to NOT do this yourself unless you have small hands and A LOT of patience. Working with the 2GR in the Aurion engine bay is not the most pleasant experience. Okay, so if you're not aware, the 2GR-FE in the Aurion (and other cars for that matter) had previously had a design fault which can lead to oil loss. The Aurion's affected are generally those that were built prior to 2009. There is quite a lot of discussion over on the Toyota Nation thread "ATTN: All 2GR-FE V6 OWNERS!!! BEWARE!!!", as well as over here in "Alert to V-6 owners - possible oil leak!". I'll let you do the reading further into those topics as this thread is here just for reference. It has been said that the leak mainly occurs anywhere between 45k to 65k miles (72k to 104k kms). Now this part replacement would be covered under warranty, but I believe that they will only change it once the leak occurs. This in my opinion is too risky as even with a small leak, you can lose quite a bit of your oil really fast. You can see just how fast the oil comes out of a pinhole leak from this video: If you wanted to be safe like I am, you can purchase the replacement pipe plus gaskets for around $45 and either change this yourself, or get Toyota or another mechanic to change it for you at cost. The part numbers are: Pipe Oil No. 2 - 15772-31030 Gasket - 90430-16012 Gasket - 90430-16016 Gasket - 90430-16017 So with all that said, yesterday I purchased these parts, and today I fitted them. The general instruction to replace the pipe itself can be seen in this PDF: http://members.cox.n...ne_oil_drip.pdf However, getting to it all in the first place is not the easiest thing to do while the engine is still in the car. The following is just a helper guide to give you the idea. It requires that you know how to fill in the gaps in terms of basic automotive work. If you can't figure this out, don't attempt this procedure. It's not for beginners. So basically, you jack your car up and remove the drivers side wheel: Then you need to remove/put aside the power steering pump. To do this you remove the trim at the front of the wheel arch: Then you locate the automatic belt tensioner. Keeping a 5mm Allen key handy (or any other rod of solid metal that is 5mm), you place a 14mm spanner on the belt tensioner and apply pressure in the anti-clockwise direction. This is spring loaded and you will need a bit of pressure on the spanner. Once you have turned it, you will see that the hole at the bottom will line up with a gap in the engine block. You insert the Allen key here to lock it in place: You then proceed to take the belt off the power steering pump and then unbolting it, putting it to the side to give you some room: You should then remove the timing gear cover as shown in the PDF above. Removing this is easiest from the top of the engine using an offset ring spanner and small hands. If you don't have small hands, this step will be REALLY difficult. The timing cover was another little obstacle along the way. Everything about this whole procedure had to be difficult. Some genius thought it would be a good idea to clip one part of the wiring loom to the top of the timing cover. The issue presented here is that it is near impossible to unclip the cable loom, let alone fit a pair of cutters into the engine bay up to that point to be able to cut the cable tie. On top of that, the loom is so restrictive that you can't pull the timing cover up far enough to give you easier access to the clip. After about 5-10 minutes of frustration, I finally managed to cut the cable tie. Then it's out with the old, in with the new: Afterwards, you just reverse the procedure. Changing the pipe over is pretty straight forward. It doesn't really take a genius, but it requires a lot of thought on how you will get the tools in there to remove the nuts and bolts. Everything is really cramped inside the engine bay and this is what makes it really difficult. Would I ever try this again? ... Not for a long time.
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It accelerates the electrons out of your battery so that your ignition coils get their charge faster so you engine can advance it's timing to gain you more power.
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stivo hater: Nice work resurrecting a thread that was last active nearly 6 years ago. No ZR6XY... I think you're mistaking an Aurion Sportivo for a Corolla Sportivo. First post below:
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Holy crap. This is now up to 16 bids and $1,975 with 1 hour left. There are two people keen on this. I'm kinda laughing at the same time though if it's someone not from the forums here that thinks this is all they need to supercharge their Aurion.
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Thanks for the bump. Car is pretty much the same way I had it when I left this thread. This car may be my daily, but there are some coilovers on the cards since I need new shocks anyways. I was going to drop it about 15mm though to remove any space between the wheel arch and tire. As much as I want to go lower, I would scratch the underside of the TRD so so badly.
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You will find some answers over here:
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What phone do you have? Are you sure it's the head unit that is automatically answering the calls? From my experience, I recall that in the headset settings for your phone, you may find that you have a setting listed as "auto-answer" in which you can set it to be enabled and after a particular amount of rings. I would check your phone while the head unit is connected to see if you have such settings in there.
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Canyoneerooo!!!!! I was just about to say the exact same thing.... then I saw your post. I'll be out as per usual.
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It's a T5 globe. I'm out on the road so can't post the link, but have a look in the FAQ for the instructions for taking the head unit out. You just have to remove the centre trim in front of the console box to access the globe directly underneath the panel. It's a standard twist type socket.
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Here's another rant from me. When you pull up to a pedestrian crossing and there are a stream of people crossing it.... but not just that. There are more people who are approximately the length of the crossing away approaching it. The end result being pedestrians who don't give a flying f*** that you are queued up at the crossing and continue to use the crossing in what seems like a never ending flow.
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I would have to agree with that rant. You get it a lot with those Winnebago's etc during interstate road trips. They start to accelerate 500m or so before the overtaking lane to make it difficult for others to overtake. This is where having a little extra acceleration ability comes useful. On that topic of things, when you are like a car or two behind said Winnebago etc and the guy in front of you does not put his foot down when it comes to overtaking time making it difficult for you to overtake.
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The TRD is no different to the standard Aurion in terms of engine oil requirements. Refer to either the FAQ's or perform a search for multiple discussions on engine oil type. As for a reusable panel filter, there is nothing "sports" about it. The only benefit you will gain from it is increased service life due to it's re-usability which in as soon as a few air filter change cycles, becomes more cost efficient than a traditional filter.
