DJKOR

Tilting the LED is not an option with the 5mm. You can obviously figure out why. As it is, the switch arm just clears it. Half of the issue is because I think there isn't enough space for the LED to spread its narrow beam. I like to do things my way though and instead of using another LED and putting this one to waste, here is my way. Note to others... use a 3mm LED, or a short 5mm. This works, but that's only because I find it acceptable for my own use:

It doesn't get in the way of the switch, but I just learnt that it doesn't evenly illuminate the "AUTO". I have removed it again and am playing around with it. 5mm was the only one I had laying around.

So it has begun. Look what you made me do :P. Also found an assortment of SMD LED's laying around so I'm going to play around for a bit:

They take a bit of force. They are reasonably indestructible. I've removed and inserted one dozens of times and it stills grips well. The 'barb' things are soft enough to withstand being flexed, but hard enough to provide the grip. If you manage to snap one (commonly done if using pliers to remove them), you can pick up a pack of 10 for a dollar or two.

Should have searched the Aurion board. We have some similarities which makes searching there helpful. I'll excuse you this time :P The 'Christmas tree' clips pull out and not screw. You can use the carpet to grip them better as in my photos below. You just use your thumb to hold the bottom and 'pinch' it so it doesn't drop: changing nuber plate bulbs

Yes, both the front and rear indicators are a T20 bulb. You will need to get an electronic flasher unit because changing just either the front or rear light will be enough to reduce the flashing delay from the traditional flasher unit.

Absolutely nothing. Quite sad I know. May go watch a movie I think... The Lovely Bones.

Well I guess that price is alright considering it is coming from Toyota. But next time, there is no need to get Toyota branded oil. Just go to an auto store and pick some up from there. Will cost the same or cheaper if you are just after oil like that. LOL, I remember using Pennzoil GT Street Machine 20W50 on my Camry. Was like $28 for 5 litres. Wasn't anything great, but it was oil. Most places though usually always have specials of some kind. If you are just after your basic oil, you'd be looking at $15-30 for 5 litres on special.

Half the reason why I'm less in the mood to do mine is because I put my time into my sister's Mazda 3 and when it comes to my own car, I tend to get lazier. For fun as well (it sure beats the red in my opinion... didn't take a photo of that though). Yeah there were a few LED's that I couldn't change at the time:

Man, I kind of have the urge now to change out all my LED's. The problem with me though is I tend to want to do things, then kind of get over it after a little bit of time if it doesn't happen immediately. These LED modifications are a good example. Right now I want to do it, but I don't have all the SMD LED's I need. This means I would have to order some. By the time they get here, I won't be bothered to do the job. My patience is pretty bad. It's a shame we don't have much around in terms of electronics suppliers nearby. All we have is Jaycar and PRIME Electonics (used to be Economic Electronics back in the day), and they aren't all that extensive in terms of stock.

If the "CRUISE" light is illuminated, then there will be no blown fuses. These are the only situations that will cause cruise control to be turned off: And these are the only conditions that won't allow you to set cruise control: So if none of the above is true (ie. you didn't press on the brakes or have it in S mode on third) and you aren't trying to set it while going too fast or too slow, then I would say there is probably something not right with the system. One issue it could be is the cruise control ECU is constantly receiving +12v to indicate the brakes have been applied. This can prevent it from being set. But because the cruise control ECU is built into the Main ECU, unless you are game to test it out, then just take it to Toyota. However, with that said... the sruise control has an Auto Cancel feature as a failsafe and the cruise control light flashes in the even of a problem. So there's something to think about since I would assume your indicator isn't flashing:

Here's one to get you started. I was about to take mine apart to show the steps (cause I have nothing else to do), but I knew someone in the States would have done this already. I would hope you know how to remove a door panel already because that's the only step this thing doesn't include: http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showpost...ostcount=212%22 Also, on the topic of Toyota Nation... here is a master list of all the LED sizes and guides for their Gen 6 Camry. Yes the Camry has some slight differences, and yes it is all in reverse kinda, but provided you can take stuff apart, these guides are basically the same: Master List of LEDs Bulb Sizes & DIY/Tutorials for Interior/Exterior Lights (Toyota Nation)

Don't tell me you only saw this now :P Awesome Car Control!!! Ken Block #2... (This is the same video you posted) GYMKHANA 2.1, BLOCK vs DYRDEK More Ken Block Ken Block's Trax Sti Car Another Ken Block Video

After a suggestion from David, I changed my power steering fluid today. Can't believe I didn't think of changing it with my 90,000km service. Anyways, I flushed it a couple of times to really clean it up and for some reason it now just feels healthier. Boy I love the placebo effect. Old and new: I also attempted to a cool air feed from the bumper to my new intake, but kind of failed due to the limited space available to play with. I cleared a few things up in there though so it should at least get a bit more air.

Spotted just then, a really nice looking silver Corolla Sportivo driving along the Ipswich Motorway then onto the Centenary Highway, and surprisingly all the way into Sinnamon Park. It was debadged, had some really nice 18's on it and it had a nice low stance. It was immaculate. Anyone here? If is is anyone here, man you took that onramp onto the Centenary very soft. That was the first time I made it over the hill at the end without seeing the guy behind me. I was wondering what car it was behind me, so I went slow so you would catch up and then I was surprised to see such a clean Sportivo.

Food is food for me. As it's all going into the stomach anyways.

Another thing that annoy me. When you go a distance (like downstairs) to do/get something, then you get there and something else grabs your attention and you end up doing that. Afterwards, you return to where you came from only to realise you didn't do/get what you were meant to. Then when you are stuck behind one without nowhere to go and you se then hit a bump in the road shaking all the crap out of the rear. All you can do is listen to it and cringe. This is the reason my my front end really looks like s*** now. It was so perfect and new 65,000km ago. The major disadvantage of living on a side of town where you basically have one highway linking you to everything else and they decided to redevelop it.

Provided you don't really plug much into your cigarette lighter, tapping into that as your source of power is a simple an easy way to get the +12v that you need. This saves running extra power cables that aren't really necessary. There is quite a bit of room in the seat to run the cable. You need to be a bit creative though to run the cable down in it. You can squeeze some cable through the sides of the headrest mounting holes and you can remove the rear seat pockets to give you some more access to the seat to allow you to snag the cable and work it down the seat. Then you pretty much bring the cable to the floor and then you can run it in the centre console area with the gap between the plastic and the carpet which from there you can run it to the power outlet etc.

As fr as I'm aware, the snow mode on the Kluger starts you off in 2nd gear instead of 1st. This reduces the torque applied to the wheels and in snow, this can help reduce the chance of slipping. If you were to ask me, I wouldn't want to be starting off in 2nd all the time because of the extra load placed on the engine This is just my feeling about it all. I'm sure someone here can provide details of what this can add wear to, if any.

Pretty sure ur correct.. Something to do with CANBUS system.. i think? Definitely would only be something that the Sat-Nav system would have if such a feature exists. I personally haven't heard of it being available on the Sat-Nav's used on the Aurion though.

I reckon it will take a bit of effort to get Ash to crack so he will start doing things like that to his car

Well if it is plastic but still has those ridges on it (used to aim the light), then you will need to have that made clear before you should consider putting projectors in. The process for this involves sanding the ridges down till the surface is flat, then using finer and finer sandpaper and then working to a light cutting paste, you make the surface clear and smooth. This will make the lens surface thinner, but at least it will enable the projectors to do their job.

Maybe it's not the change in fuel but the quality of the fuel supplied over there. Just another possibility. I would doubt you car has become sensitive to fuel changes... but once again, you never know with these cars.

Got it from Autocom Performance on eBay for $365 shipped to Aus. Whirring or whistling? I have both. The whirring was noticeable without the intake and it was kind of similar to a straight-cut gearbox but very light sounding. I just figured it's to do with the gear ratios as I only ever heard it in first and second (ie. the gears are spinning faster). Then I put the intake on and I can hear a whistling sound around 2,500RPM up to 3,500RPM but only when accelerating. It's the type of sound like when a big rig is overtaking you and you can hear the turbo spool.... just faint sounding though. But from looking at comments in my 'Members rides' thread, it appears it is a 'normal' sound.