DJKOR

If you really wanted to do that, I would suggest to rewire your fog lights with a relay so that when your car is on, your fog lights receive constant power through them in series (effectively running at half power) and then then run normally when you turn your fog lights on. I'm out at the moment but will draw a diagram when I get back. This would be the most cost efficient option. Or were you not referring to DRL in the traditional sense and are thinking of putting in additional lights like LED's.

Speaking of which, I pushed on the dash a little and it didn't creak as much as mine. I'm guessing they finally got on top of it, even if it's just a minor fix. Same size. I had a good look around the engine bay for any subtle changes and couldn't see anything out of the ordinary. You know... now that I look at it again, they kinda do. I've always though they look similar to the new Mazda tail lights. Seems to be evidence of copying trends.

When I went inside to ask for the keys, the staff there looked a little puzzled when I said I wanted to see the dash. I must say, the dash is clearer to read thanks to the markings on it and better contrast. That said, I am still a fan of the pre-facelift dash. I think mainly because it is a little more 'colourful' (though probably gimmicky) but still looks more unique. At least it makes it easy for those that want to put in a double DIN head unit. Yeah, I noticed the sensor for that there. Not something I'd use, but it's an addition nevertheless.

Yup. The ZR6 has the rear blind. I swear this was a Presara only option for the pre-facelift.

For anyone here that hasn't had a look at the facelift Aurion in person, I thought I would stop by Toyota on my drive today and check one out. Overall, my opinion is that the car somewhat 'feels' cheaper than the pre-facelift model. Sure the head and tail lights are kinda cool, but everything else just doesn't seem right. The interior looks a little more plastic than the pre-facelift and the 'leather wrapped' steering wheel feels cheap and tacky. I'm not sure it if was just that one, but I've felt fake leather feel more real than that before... even fake leather steering wheel covers have felt better. The front grill as well also seems to be more plastic than the previous model. You can clearly see in the photo below that it just looks lighter. While on the front end, the number plate holder seems a little oversized. I'm also not sure if this was an option for this model or whether it comes this way, but the stock stereo isn't as neat as the previous model's. It's a decent stereo, just doesn't have that fit. Last little thing I noticed was the rear parcel shelf is now carpeted. Once again, not sure if it's a ZR6 thing or not.

It can be done but as David said above, you will be putting yourself though a lot of trouble that is not needed.

Happy Birthday to ya Hogan (Speedz). TGIF cause it will be easier to party.

help!! i cant find the attachement to download... Oh dear. On this very page: Post number 52 has numerous links on it. Also mentioned again in post 53 and 54. If any of those links are dead, posts 51, 52, 53, 54, & 65 make mention of the following - Camry Stuff - Gen6 Manuals And then, if you want to get all at the same time, post 69 has a link to download a complete ZIP file - http://www.megaupload.com/?d=CKKWYAJT It sometimes helps to take a quick look at the last page of a thread for the more recent posts.

If you know anyone in the hotel industry, see if you can get a hold of one of their ozone generators. They usually have quite a few, most hotels would have at least one per floor, and sit this in your car for an hour. Depending on how serious it is, you can get rid of the smell after 1 hour or a few.

Are you referring to the low beam. If so, H1 will not fit because this is the wrong bulb. The low beams and fog lights use H11. This is stated both in your owners manual and the FAQ's here.

The AI shift control is only for the American Gen 6 Camry V6 and the Australian Aurion.. and any other car using the U660E automatic transaxle. According to Toyota: Essentially this just means that if you drive the car relaxed, the gearbox will optimise itself to make the shifts as smooth as possible and as a result, the shifts are usually slower. If the car is driven more spirited, the gearbox shift pattern adjusts to make its shift a bit more responsive (though still slow unfortunately). This AI is always learning and therefore there is no need to reset it. Just driving the car over a few kilometres is enough to make changes. If you did have such gearbox in your car and wanted to forcefully reset the ECU, you can either disconnect your battery or remove the ECU fuses for about 20 minutes.

Ash, you have 1 hour from now to message me as to what tea you want. Otherwise I will pick it myself.

Go option 3. Can work out really cheap for high performance. That's what I used to do in the past. Now I personally go for number 2 but that's cause I just need a computer for the forums and nothing else really.

Litestep? That's what I have (see above post). Gives me a clutter free desktop and means every application I use gets 100% screen space.

Well, I had a day off and it was pretty much used on the car. Firstly I took of the front callipers, cleaned them and the pads, and put some 'CRC Disc Brake Quiet' on the rears of the pads. Let it all set and put it back together. Then I changed my A/C pollen filter (once again left it for 5,000km too long and was quite dirty, photo below), then cleaned her up really well inside. Then degreased and hosed out the engine bay. Was quite a bit of dust in there from the last week. All nice and shiny again. Drove her to the car wash. No more brake squeal so I was relieved. Washed her really well (avoided touching the brakes with the water). Noticed on te drive home that the squeal is once again there. About 50% of it though, so I guess I should be happy. Then did all the final details here at home. And the dirty filter:

Yup. Been a bit of discussion on it around here. The cause of the smell is bacteria that builds up on the A/C evaporator. When exposed to moisture in the air condensing on it, you will get that smell. One way you can help clear it up is to set your A/C vent to fresh air as much as possible. This bacteria usually clears up when exposed to fresh air. Alternatively, you can spray some Glen 20 into the passenger footwell up towards the glove box while the fan is set to high.

Yeah, same here. I figured if this unit breaks, I'm going to gut it out and build a mini Mac into it.

Sure is. The 5x114.3 stud pattern is fairly common, and most wheels come offset options from 35-45mm offset. TRD is 46.5mm as confirmed by SupaTouring, but depending on what you get you can get away with an extra 3mm change in offset either side. * Edited offset.

I know exactly what you are thinking and I hate to tell you, but the way you are heading is not going to work. The thing you need to remember is that these units are a 'dual zone' unit. You have the head unit interface (for radio, CD player, etc), then you have the WinCE interface for the purpose of the navigation side of things. The way to see it is like a computer running a Virtual Machine. So essentially, when you turn your head unit on, it runs on the head unit side which can not be modified with ease. Then when you open up the navigation software, it loads WinCE on top of the head unit interface. There is no point really on modifying the WinCE side of things because once you open the navigation software, that is what you see. So you're better off modifying the navigation software interface. If you want to modify the head unit side of things, you need to work a bit deeper. This is what the Auspack style units use, the Digoptions one would be something similar: http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/inde...st&p=323333 Unfortunately this is due to that 'dual zone' thing. It's from the way the two interfaces communicate with each other. If you are advanced in IT, this would be something that could be explored. Otherwise, an alternative would be to have a music player running in WinCE with the Navigation software running as well. This could make the voice play over the music... but getting the WinCE interface to manage your music is easier said than done. Once again, another skilled IT job.

If you are good with Photoshop, you should do a mock up firstly. I reckon an all black look will be a little plain. I'd say don't get rid of your rims either if you go for aftermarket. Mainly cause all TRD Aurion stuff is getting rare now.

Wow, this thread sounds so familiar. Should probably try a search first. It even has the same name: Kluger on the beach Anyone been 4x4 in their kluger?

Maybe it's not the shocks that are making the noise. Check any suspension related bushes and lubricate if dry. That may help if you're lucky.

Gotta be more specific. There are all kinds of flavours. Pick what you want and let me know: http://www.easyways.com.au/bubble-tea-menu/ Hopefully my brakes won't be squeaking anymore. Just applied some CRC Disc Brake Quiet (waiting for it to set before putting it all back together), and hope that the squeal is gone. I am a bit sceptical that this layer of red paste is going to even work, but I guess I will find out. If it works, maybe you should get some. Probably will have to order new brake pads next week just in case. I didn't think these pads could get eaten up so fast. They were smoking pretty good at QR though.

My stupid question: I know track days are pretty aggressive on brake pads, but I changed my brake pads (QFM HPX) at about 75,000km and now am at around 77,000km. In that time, I did about 3 Nebo runs and 1 track day. Just took my pads off now to apply anti-squeal grease and noticed my front pads have up to 2mm of material left before the wear indicators. This is a little too fast wouldn't you think?