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Air intake mods


ELEGNT

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Remove that crappy carbon filter. There only good for Hydro :P

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These Hinges can be a bit tricky

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Keep the nuts in a safe place! hehe

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the Filter is glued in by plastic rivets, so rip it off!!!

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All done! now put it back. Make sure to clip those hinges in tight or you'll be scratching your head for ages, as they clip in and make the sound there gone in but not all the way :)

Edited by MartysAurion
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Remove that crappy carbon filter. There only good for Hydro :P

...All done! now put it back. Make sure to clip those hinges in tight or you'll be scratching your head for ages, as they clip in and make the sound there gone in but not all the way :)

Since you went to the effort to remove that, did you swap your vacuum hoses around as well? If you're freeing up the intake, you may as well hear it.

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Since you went to the effort to remove that, did you swap your vacuum hoses around as well? If you're freeing up the intake, you may as well hear it.

No i didn't mate, Do you have any instructions to swap the Vacum hose? what does it involve?

Cheers mate

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Since you went to the effort to remove that, did you swap your vacuum hoses around as well? If you're freeing up the intake, you may as well hear it.

No i didn't mate, Do you have any instructions to swap the Vacum hose? what does it involve?

Cheers mate

I have a picture back there on the first page. Just try and replicate what you see:

dsc02793fr5.jpg

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Interesting DJKOR,

For anyone wishing to open their upper intake path all the time, just connect the valve directly to the vacuum line. I left the pipe attached to the switching valve on the left because it not only prevents the insides of the switch getting dirty, but it lets me change it back to normal without having to find some spare tube. There is probably no real advantage to doing this except for increasing intake noise. Those that say it increases throttle response are probably imagining it. The way I see it, it's just another path to let air get to the filter, so opening it would be of no harm.
+

I'm a little confused on instructions but I'll take a look

Edited by MartysAurion
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But by removing the intake control how will it suck more air? it's a bit hard to see in the pic but it looks like you have disconnected the Actuator and left the Air inlet disconnected too.

Yes the vacuum switching valve is disconnected, but there is no need for it now that the intake valve is always held open. You should go back to the first page and do a bit of reading into it.

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Sorry mate,

I didn't make it clear I fully read the thread but not upto date with the definitions of car parts :P

In the pic it looks like the red line is connected to the the airbox and the blue is removed or looped as you have shown except you swapped the hose. and it will not effect the temperature gage?

In addition I might be mistaken but it also looks like you have swapped the blue and brown hoses.

vwwth3.jpg

Anyway 10 mins later all done mate cheers for that. I also swapped the blue and brown. what exactly will the disconnected hose do that is looped? can it build pressure or damage anything?

Edited by MartysAurion
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In the pic it looks like the red line is connected to the the airbox and the blue is removed or looped as you have shown. and it will not effect the temperature gage?

In addition I might be mistaken but it also looks like you have swapped the blue and brown hoses.

That is correct. The vacuum butterfly is connected directly to the non-return vacuum tank on the air box, and the other pipe is looped around on the vacuum switching valve. As mentioned, this hose is looped around only to prevent it from getting dirty inside. The hoses are switched around... BUT that depends on which way you look at it. Think about it. Regardless, that doesn't matter as they are all the same. You can change it with any other vacuum hose if you wish and it would still work.

I don't see how it can affect the temperature gauge as it has absolutely nothing to do with it.

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On that note it was more realistic to swap the 2 hoses as the blue is a perfect length.

Good point. Didn't really think of that. It's just the way I swapped it.

In conclusion I'm going for a drive :toast:

Then after that drive, you should take out a 10mm spanner/socket and remove the snorkel bit in front of that vacuum actuator (the part that leads up to above the radiator). Then you will be left with something like this (LOL; I must have been messing around a bit cause the pipes are swapped around in this photo):

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THEN go for a drive and hear the difference. You'd be surprised. It may be sucking in warmer air, but the purpose of this exercise was to make you re-think about changing that scoop to something a bit less restrictive.

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awesome!

I did that as a test a while back! yeah it's heaps better.

If I could do some thing with the resonator it should be more effective and louder, not as loud as removing the snorkel. but just the theory of sucking in above and below the case.

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  • 1 month later...

just raising this thread from the depths. after having my intake on all this time it never really felt any faster than the stock setup. now that ive taken it off after all this time i can confidently tell u that there is a resonable gain in having the intake from about 2.5k all the way to redline there is a noticable increase of power and it also sounds 1000 times better.

just thought id put that up seeing i was bagging it for not performing a wile back.

AND yes i know daryl has a better time than me at the drags probly has zero to do with the intake may be a better balanced engine or could have been run in better etc etc etc so many variables. i cut from a 14.4 to a 14.2 by putting it on.

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AND yes i know daryl has a better time than me at the drags probly has zero to do with the intake may be a better balanced engine or could have been run in better etc etc etc so many variables. i cut from a 14.4 to a 14.2 by putting it on.

Could also be due to me changing my stock intake around slightly.

Like you said though, so many variables so it's near impossible to tell.

Just like on the back of a Mortein can: "If you're onto a good thing.... stick with it".

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  • 1 month later...

after saying stock intake was good enough, i couldn't help myself and built an SRI, wow what a note ! and it enhances the exhaust note as well. had to make my own mass air meter mod, the only kits here are for the 3lt v6

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Good job mate. Many times I have considered picking up a 3inch MAF adaptor (easy for me to obtain) and making my own SRI to get that sweet, sweet sound, but for some reason I keep turning away from the idea.

Maybe it's my strange hate for oiled filters.

Now I am tempted to drive out right now and do so.

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Good job mate. Many times I have considered picking up a 3inch MAF adaptor (easy for me to obtain) and making my own SRI to get that sweet, sweet sound, but for some reason I keep turning away from the idea.

Maybe it's my strange hate for oiled filters.

Now I am tempted to drive out right now and do so.

wasn't easy, had to customise the hole for the MAF ( get the nearest hole saw, then file the hole to size ) put some flexible sealant around the hole, place the MAF in and in my case bacause there is no plate, secure the MAF to the tubing with self taping screws ( a bit crude but effective ) as to the oil issue the pod filters dont seem to be too oily. still wont be the fastest taxi down here ,one of my colleges hos a boss 290 FTP XR8 manual. lol

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wasn't easy, had to customise the hole for the MAF ( get the nearest hole saw, then file the hole to size ) put some flexible sealant around the hole, place the MAF in and in my case bacause there is no plate, secure the MAF to the tubing with self taping screws ( a bit crude but effective )

I can easily get my hands on an already made adaptor that will do the trick. Saves a bit of time. Otherwise, I have the tools to make a mount that would do the trick. DIY options aren't hard for me. I'm just waiting for the right persuasion to go ahead and do it.

This is the type of MAF adaptor I'm talking about:

100083.jpg

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wasn't easy, had to customise the hole for the MAF ( get the nearest hole saw, then file the hole to size ) put some flexible sealant around the hole, place the MAF in and in my case bacause there is no plate, secure the MAF to the tubing with self taping screws ( a bit crude but effective )

I can easily get my hands on an already made adaptor that will do the trick. Saves a bit of time. Otherwise, I have the tools to make a mount that would do the trick. DIY options aren't hard for me. I'm just waiting for the right persuasion to go ahead and do it.

This is the type of MAF adaptor I'm talking about:

100083.jpg

that is the same one we have here autobarn had 2 of these they come with adaptors for 3 different makes ( including toyota ) but the adaptor only fits the mcvr36, unfortunately these parts have not been updated to suit the smaller MAF sensors on the aurion, hence the need to manufacture one myself, if you do find any to suit the aurion please let us know, would rather have the correct fitting for piece of mind.

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my SRI (now owned by 51DER) was probly my favourite mod on my car, sound was insane! on W.O.T people turned around and looked 200m before u even got to them

Edited by ELEGNT
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my SRI (now owned by 51DER) was probly my favourite mod on my car, sound was insane! on W.O.T people turned around and looked 200m before u even got to them

it certainly has a head turning bark when you peak it out, wont do it do it too often might scare the old grannys round the ranks. best result putting it in sports mode, shifting through the gears. ( got to take it easy 2nd to 3rd because of the slip )

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my SRI (now owned by 51DER) was probly my favourite mod on my car, sound was insane! on W.O.T people turned around and looked 200m before u even got to them

Aw... It's a shame we never get to hear what the sounds like... Can ask 51DER to put up a video?

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