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Steve's Aurion ZR6


Steven

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Yep I tested that several times. The unit does cut power however it's only for a second or two, and it immediately picks up where it left off. Even cycling accessories on and off without starting the engine doesn't seem to faze it

Edit

Just tested it precisely - It will reboot instantly with a power loss for up to 4 seconds. Plenty of time for starting. After this to 7 seconds it does a quick boot of only 10 seconds (cold boot is 20).

I'm not too worried about the voltage cut whilst starting as George tells me it's got a pretty good surge protector in there. Apparently the factory splurged on this as it was more cost efficient as it significantly lowered the warranty return rate.

Edited by Steven
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Busy 3 days off, but worth it.

- Wired the stereo so it now switches on whenever I'm near the car with the key, or inside it. This gets around the slow start up of the unit. Works flawlessly and shuts off as soon as I lock the car.

- Replaced all 4 door courtesy lights with LED T10 bulbs. Was making them manually using regular 5mm LEDs but in the end bit the bullet and just bought some.

- Redid my roof console lights from using 5mm LEDs to SMD LEDs. Much more even light spread and a nicer white too. Also looks less ghetto.

- Changed the blue climate control LEDs to white LEDs to better match the stereo. Still some slight difference in the lighting but that can wait till the next lot of days off to work out.

- New DTV antenna installed into the boot lid. Initial testing shows it'll work as soon as I power up the booster, but ran out of time.

- And lastly I began the "Aux In" connectors for the stereo, by installing the USB connector in the centre console. The stereo I bought didn't actually come with external USB, I needed to open it up and connect one up (in the process I damaged the mini-SD card reader, but who needs that anyway).

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BOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO! I say we kill him! Lol

+1...dirty ba$tards take so much of our hard earned and then the mongrols throw some scraps back your way and they call it a return/refund. :angry:

imagine (totally hyperthetical) tax was like the governments way of saving for you...and at the end of each finacial year we all get what we paid in tax back in a cheque,wow think of the crazy upgrades/mods after each tax return. :lol:

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would be GREAT for the economy... but all our government funded "services" (and i use that term very loosely!) would be non-existant... lol

i should be getting a fair chunk back this year though... i've only worked for half the year, but obviously got taxed as if i was working the full year... :D

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A couple of changes..

Had to give up getting alloy wheels this time around due to a poor return (as above), but it's still in the near future. Tyres however wouldn't wait, so I had 4x 215/55/zr17s thrown on this morning, of a cheap and I'm sure nasty brand (the name eludes me, but you get what you pay for with tyres). Not at all for performance but I refuse to put expensive rubber on wheels I plan to upgrade in a few months.

Also played around with the intake a bit further. I previously did the vacuum hose mod and noticed bugger all difference in intake noise. Today I removed the lower air intake piping, and made a PVC spacer to hold the flap in the upper intake path open - I'm not sure whether the vacuum hose mod does it anyway, but considering it's rest position is closed I'd rather hold it open.

The difference in intake noise now is HUGE. With any throttle under load it's got a really nice deep intake rumble.

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mate howd you make your strut bar?

To put it simply, I used cardboard to get the shape for the steel base plates on the struts towers, then ground them out of plate steel and welded the pieces together. The bar is simply solid aluminum which I've done a half ****d job polishing up. The bar is attached to the end pieces by a high tensile bolt through the bar.

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mate howd you make your strut bar?

To put it simply, I used cardboard to get the shape for the steel base plates on the struts towers, then ground them out of plate steel and welded the pieces together. The bar is simply solid aluminum which I've done a half ****d job polishing up. The bar is attached to the end pieces by a high tensile bolt through the bar.

i see!

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Fair few changes to the car now. Exhaust and Taillights now on.

I think I've spent too much money lately, so aside from washing there won't be any more mod's for a little while.

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Dammit Steve.. I was supposed to get that tail light from Ash! :lol: Lookin good with the tail lights sittin there.. :clap:

What's the with hole at the middle rear bumper lip?

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Would appreciate some opinions on some taillight tinting. Having a fairly dark themed front end, the back is looking a tad bright. Opinions people's?

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It's where the Tow Bar was - I've removed it as I hardly ever use it anymore. Now I'm having trouble finding a neat way to fill the hole

hey steve. do you still have the to bar. would be interested. love the pipes . dont matter what i do to the trd pipe wise. still looks the same at the ***** end

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damn you steve... you're finishing off what i wanted to do to those lights!! :lol:

i was gonna head down the route of number 2... but i had a black car, so it would have looked pretty good... not too sure if that dark a tinting would look good or not on your gold car...

maybe try number 3 level of tint and then go darker if you want later on...

i assume you'll be doing it yourself?

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