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Sound from the rear sway bar`


KT_haha

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I replaced my rear sway bar a week ago with the whiteline one, handling is all different and I love it :D

The day after the replacement, we had the Natio run with the boys from the forum (it was supposed to be the Cross City tunnel break in), the run was kinda bumpy and after that, the rear sway bar started to have this "konk konk" sound when ever the body twists. So I took it back to the workshop and asked them to tighten it which fixed the problem at the time, but after 3 days, the sound came back again. Now, I'm driving around with the this sound happening now and then, kinda annoying. My friend suggests me to tighten it again, but some one else suggests that it's too tight... so I'm confused.

Any one had a similar sort of problem before? Any suggestions?

Any one know what sort of torque we are supposed to put onto these nuts?

The sound is only noticeable when the car is moving slowly (when the car turns or when it goes onto a bump).

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Yep same prob with the Whiteline rear sway. No idea what torque should be, but every time I tighten it the noise becomes less frequent (never really goes away completely). Some others have suggested that the non-permanent Loctite helps.

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It's needs to be very tight - use leverage, I had the same problem when I had mine installed, we used a pipe for leverage on the wrench and it fixed the problem, came back just a tiny bit a month ago which is a good 9 months after installation ( Oddly only when creeping out of the driveway ).

So I simply asked Toyota to tighten the bolts at the last service which they did with no protest. No more noise.

That's Melbourne City Toyota by the way.

I've heard the torque setting is very high for these two bolts, you will have noticed when the old one was removed the bolts were very very hard to remove.

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1. Take it off again, MAP81 and myself had the same problem, just lube it.

2. Toyota doesn't follow the torque settings, cos we couldn't even move the bolt on shao one, even with the rattle gun on full blast.

3. Torque setting is so you can actually take it off the next time for this particular case.

:) have fun!

when i had some noise... it was when i snapped the rear sway... :D TWICE!!

oh.. and the fronts will be noisy too, but that's just the bushes... again... clean and lube.

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we actually modified MAP81's whiteline rear POS on the weekend, didn't just lube it up... it's now totally silent.

I'm actually becoming dissapointed with the declining quality of the whiteline gear. I could weld better with my ****ty arc welder.

Edited by rollamods
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There are just two sets of nuts and bolts on either side of the sway bar holding it in.

I'm thinking the noise can come from two places, one is from the bar touching the U shape bracket when the body twists; and the other is where the bolts are screwed in, the rubbing of the metal contact (between the bolt and the bar and the bracket) as the body twisits.

there are NO bushes on the POS whiteline rear swaybar.

So what goes inbetween the bar itself and the brackets??? Or are the ends only joined at the struts???

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i have trd and it has never made a sound. izzfe has it too and he initially had sound issue but once tightened it never made a sound again.

the torque is very high for those 2 bolts. take for example the front strut bolts are 29 and the rear sway is close to 200.

could the orientation of the bolts make any difference? with stock the bolt head is at the bottom and the nut at top.

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i have trd and it has never made a sound. izzfe has it too and he initially had sound issue but once tightened it never made a sound again.

the torque is very high for those 2 bolts. take for example the front strut bolts are 29 and the rear sway is close to 200.

could the orientation of the bolts make any difference? with stock the bolt head is at the bottom and the nut at top.

Of all the strut braces northy and myself have fitted only 1 car was a drama getting the strut mount nuts undone. Some have been that loose that I almost got them undone with my fingers!(hey sportiv!!)

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Definetely no rubber bushes where the stabiliser is bolted into the torsion beam, it's metal on metal because the stabiliser is what keeps the torsion beam assembly rigid, if there's movement between the stabiliser and torsion beam it defeats the purpose of having the stabiliser there.

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  • 3 weeks later...
Take it off again, MAP81 and myself had the same problem, just lube it.

Question: What do you mean you lubed it? Where did you apply the grease? Was it on the inside of the ends where the bolts go through or the contact points on either ends where the bar makes contact with the torsion beam ?

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Question:  What do you mean you lubed it?  Where did you apply the grease?  Was it on the inside of the ends where the bolts go through or the contact points on either ends where the bar makes contact with the torsion beam ?

the contact points on either ends where the bar makes contact with the torsion beam :)

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