ZEEROLLA

Guys!!! I don't think my car will be fixed in time :( Only getting quote Wednesday so no way it will be ready Saturday.. what to do what to do.. maybe i'll go in a Honda

Maybe loud exhasut mean reduced power But thanks Cooley for the breakdown.. The MX-5 sure is a perfect touge car.. i am so tempted to get one and wack on an AVO turbo kit ;) The sector time of the RUNX looks slow.. the 2zz equiped Spirits MRS did 14"4?? from memory but that Civic/ Roadster are bloody quick! Close to the Amuse S2000's time. I see C-One prefers Spring/Shock combo on Touge as opposed to coilover setup like others, they did the same to the C-One Celica. The Celica lost to the AE86 the last time, was slow accelerating out of corners, didn't have the punch compared to the AE86. Or Orido is just a crap fwd driver <_<

You need the AFM, thats why the CAI or SRI kits come with an inbuilt slot for it. Or you can get a 3 inch pipe cutom made that will accomodate the AFM but it will costs as much as a SRI or CAI.

Thumbs up for trying other brands of CAI even though there wasn't much of a performance difference but hey you never know, maybe up to 4th gear you will see the Injen pull away slightly but i highly doubt it up against a TRD CAI :P Will love to see pics of it, can't wait ;)

1. Toyta Vitz RS Turbo (200 ps) 2. Mazda MX-5 Roadster 3. Honda Civic EG6 with B16C engine (200 ps) 4. Suzuki Cappaccino (140 ps) ← So i'm guessing its quicker than the Cappuccino and MX-5? but slower than the Vitz Turbo? That's depressing, i thought it eould be more competitive.. :( Cooley can you give us more details of what the drivers said abt the RunX an what mods COne has done to the car to make it 5th out of 5 cars!?

Will try to get some pics soon, don't know exactly but if that's the case what happens? ← Hopefully that's not the case, but if it is, then the damage goes from being cosmetic to being structural, therefore more $$$ and potentially greater effect on the vehicle's dynamics if not fixed correctly. Xoom's absolutely correct ... you won't really know what's damaged until they start pulling it all apart. Hopefully its just cosmetic! ← Damn it the bonnet didn't seem to be affected at all, not a scratch.. i was hoping for a new bonnet or a respray.. not even the side panels look damaged but the front bumper cross beam is totally stuffed and snapped off a bit of the joint with the rails. But even if there is structural damage panel beaters have this car-o-liner system that can allign the chassis. However i'm afraid the car will never be the same :( I have found myself a very thorough panel beater though, he works alone and in his own business and assured me he will use new/genuine parts for everything. He is NOT a recommended NRMA repairer. Looks like i have a new bumper and grill as a minimum. Metal bits in the engine bay i don't know, hopefully all goes smoothly and well and i don't have to sell/trade my car .

Will try to get some pics soon, don't know exactly but if that's the case what happens?

Thanks Buddha/Dylan, i do have hire car cover but only for theft. I also don't have a choice of repairer. And my excess is $900! Man, its getting expensive.. could have got new shocks or brakes with that money.. :( But if the costs is $3000 and above i can't complain.. might also need them to straighten up a few metal bits near the radiator. Z

:( Today coming home from Sydney at abt 8pm in the very busy traffic my gf offered me a bite of an apple.. i looked away and when i turned back i noticed the Accord Euro in front of me had disappeared and there was a stationary Commodore approx 15m away from my Stivo.. I was travelling at approx 40km/h. I jammed hard on the brake pedal.. the car didn't stop in tme and i ploughed into the Commodore's rear-end, i heard a loud crack .. Damage from what i can see is a cracked bumper, passeneger side bumper popped out and TRD pod is visible now. The metal bar behind the bumper is bent badly and 1mm away from piercing the radiator. The passenger headlight has been slightly moved. The driver's side looks better. Panels look ok to me, but don't know if there were any structural damage (car drove fine and still as hard), i hope not or the Stivo will go. The Commodore only has a bent tow bar and some scratches on the bumper. Anyone knows how much it would cost me to fix and how long it will take to fix? I have to come up with $850 excess, i'm 23. I am going to ask for all NEW parts and try to claim loss of use, for rental car or something. Z

no but the TRD pod is huge so needs to be pushed up the pipe as far as it can go to clear the foggy.

2nd hand for 300 is expensive.. new is only like 350-400, i got my TRD for 450 some 400. The piping will be ok unless its rusted, but thepod is the main thing, a new K&N pod costs around $100 so u decide. Rubber tubing CAI will be no good cuz the suction at full throttle and high temps make rubber soft and can deform, you will end up creating more turbulence and worst case choking the engine of air. Rubber also conducts more heat so more hot air. Maybe try high quality silicon. Some intercooler piping is made from silicon andthey are much stronger. Also don't forget your AFM sensor ;)

Short ram is more "illegal" since you can see te pod easier!

I think it has something to do with my freah gearbox oil, i change it very frequently and ever since i got the fresh lot in after my new clutch i have been beating the synchros more.. also because i am shifting sooo much faster after the sticky gear problem's gone! :P I also had Nulon G70 before but i don't have it now so that is my suspicion.

Maybe watching too much Best Motoring where they shove he Integra TypeRs and Civic TypeRs into 1st gear all the time to get maximum acceleration! :P

Hey guys, yet another gearbox topic. This time its "beating the synchros" and i have had that happening since Day 1. It feels like your synchros are stuffed or you have simply mis-shifted but it isn't as i'm not that bad a driver. It's definitely "beating the synchros" and i know it as it only happens when i try to race or drive it hard doing a FAST 1-2 shift but my clutch pedal is fully depressed and no problems coming out of 1st gear, and then crunch.. wouldn't go into 2nd even with my clutch pedal still fully depressed.. so no driver error there! It has probably happened to me a dozen times now since the day i bought my Stivo and it usually happens when the weather is cold (but car well warmed up). I use Castrol Syntrax 75W90 Full Synthetic MTL and its the recommended viscosity. I alos add Nulon G70 MTL additive and it helps but i haven't added it recently. What abt people using Redline oils.. do yous still beat the synchros every now and then when you shift real fast? Or could it be the double synchros in the 6 speed's 2nd gear? It only happens intermittently but there was one night it happened twice in succession when i raced someone! Then the following day i drove it HARD chirped tyres 2nd gear and all that jazz and no probs.. so its very intermittent. From what i have read i think my hand is moving too fast for the synchros (aka shifting too fast).. <_< So people that shift SLOW will not have this issue :P I know even the Honda NSX, a $250,000 car can also have this 1-2 beat synchro problem. Finally, what sort of damage will i be looking at when the gearbox has had enough with my "beating the synchros" But i think the double synchro 2nd gear in our 6 seed is pretty strong, but has anyone here been told by Toyota they have stuffed synchros / shift linkages and had them replaced? Cheers, Z

Bill, I think the bare minimum drivetrain loss on a FWD is in the order of 30% and on 4wd's around 40% or more. Maybe in exceptional cases the loss is only 25%, so the BEST you could expect would be 86kW stock. Although technically, that car was dynoed with a K&N panel filter which may have even given him a few kW atw. Any more than this is questionable, IMHO. PS. Sucked in SP23 owners, looks like Mazda ownz joo!! ← If its 30% loss for FWD then my Stivo will have approx 162kw @ flywheel with TRD CAI alone... Not to mention Dylan's will have 164kw @ flywheel STOCK and Dave's will have around 182kw!!! :o I think 20-25% loss is more accurate for FWD and RWD, 30-40% for AWD.

..and adding to what Dylan said, get it done! It makes a difference to the driveability of the Stivo. :) Z

well from wat ive heard, the wrx also have this problem. its nothing major really so dont give up on the sportivo just yet ← This is not a problem.. i thought ALL cars do this? Its 1st gear guys!!! Of course its hard to get into 1st when your car is moving, u need to be more aggressive and need more rev matching, double clutching or whatever way to get it in, but it does go in.

We are the elites!! :P

I feel sooooooo ripped off :(

Holly mother of G@D! :o Was going through old topics and this is a funny one but came across Rollamod's post and he diagnosed the gear shifting problem and knew how to fix it since April 2004!!! Were we ALL asleep!!!??? :(

Power @ wheels with TRD CAI and BP Ultimate fuel: 114.1kw @ wheels Dyno Dynamics 4WD Dyno in Shootout Mode Gear: 4th Ambient Temp: 19 Tyre Pressure: 34psi (although it says 50psi)

now that zee's mentioned it, the lighter flywhel, contrary to wat most ppl say on other cars, makes this car feel torqueyer(spelling?). the car pulls itself along a lot more easily and responds so much better when u stab the throttle. and zee, u don't really have to contact TRD to stroke the 2zz, a place in melb already sells the kit for a 2zzge in clubmans ;) ← Serious!? You got some pricing on that Shao? There is this guy around my area that also claimed to have stroked his 2zz and have close ratio gears in his Lotus Exige but he didn't mention where he got the stroker kit from. He only told eme he could do the same to my Stivo ;)

A piggy back or full replacement ECU will yield good results and combined with other bolt-ons like CAI, full 2.25-2.5inch exhaust (3 inch is too large/noisy for a NA 1800cc motor) you can expect to get between 125-130kw @ wheels on a dyno dynamics dyno (which is approx 160kw @ flywheel). Another good way to feel like you have more torque is reduce the weight of the car but do it sensibly as it can throw off the car's handling balance. Having a lighter flywheel also helps. Finally if money is not an issue and you can always contact TRD and stroke the car to 2000cc. ;) Z

Characteristic of the gearbox, don't worry. You will get used to it ;)