ZEEROLLA

Check your tyre pressure regarding the steering feel but the Stivo's steering feel is light compared to other cars. And maybe check your CV joints, steering fluid etc..

These are some interesting info on the hub dyno ;)

85.9kw @ flywheel sounds really off to me and at 165-170km/h?? (4th/5th gear?) Should have been done in 3rd gear. Your rolla is 1ZZFE engined right? You should get close to 100kw @ fly and abt 75-80kw @ wheels. I don't know anything abt reading torque curves but i hav a rough idea abt tractive effort on the dyno dynamics printouts. Z

Bill i want it in Silver please :D

I was told they can stick something down the gap between the window and door and "pop" the dent out. Anyone heard of this? Having to respray the whole panel for a dent or a few dents is overkill imo..

Where have you been Craig!? u don't know Jessica Alba!? Who is she btw :P hehe.. nah she's HOT!! B)

Hahaha yes they are falken Ziex 326, 205,40ZR 17 Wat tyre suggestions do you have for my 17s??? please reply all ← Look under wheels and tyres, i have made my biased tyre recommendation clear in those topics :P

Yes, if Aus had brought the Caldina GT4 in, I would have bought it instead of the Accord Euro. Hehe. Read this Toyota Australia! ← Looks real aggressive the Caldina GT4 but i believe the Accord Euro still has better chassis & suspension balance although its only fwd. The turbo and awd combo is a drag warrior ;) Now to test drive on GranTurismo4 :P

Zee, I'm interested to know why you think lowering alone would affect acceleration... ← Lowering alters the suspension balance and traction either possitively or negatively depending on how well your suspension balance is after lowering. More traction means less wheel spin but i found that 1-2shift with a bit of wheelspin is good to keep revs above 6000rpm, but wheelspin on take-off is just a waste of time ;) But how much lowering affects accelration is up for scrutiny since it can be so marginal. But i believe in JDM RunX's case, there are way too many variables involved but from the mechanical standpoint the lowering and rims/tyres are the only modifications he did to differ from his mate's car (not to menton the CAI). Z

Jaw hits flaw! nice!!!! ← Nice numbers, a few short of 200kw@wheels! These motors really rock with just a few simple bolt-ons ;)

100% correct wei wei .... The only A539's left on the market are the ones that havent sold since yokohama stopped making them.... The c drive is supposed to be the replacement tyre..... ← ditto :) The A539 was a legend. The C.drive has been extensively tested by 280 dealers across Australia and all concluded it being a great tyre: "Offering better wet and dry grip, gives the average driver a higher margin of safety and provide a quieter and more comfortable ride." Some features of the tyre taken off the Yokohama brochure: Tested by over 280 dealers across Australia -They concluded that the C.drive range of tyres: offer better wet and dry grip, gives the average driver a higher margine of safety and provides a quiter and more comfortable ride. Superior Wet Grip -A new micro flexible silica tread compund and 4 wide straight grooves provide stronger wet weather performance and anti-aquaplaning properties. Superior Dry Grip -A clever variation in tread block stiffness and design provides the perfect balance between cornering and braking performance. Comfort and low noise for the life of the tyre -A staggered block design and 5 pitch variation theme has been applied to reduce road noise levels in both new and worn tyre conditions. The C.drive is a worthy successor to the A539. 30 sizes ranging from 14" to 17" in 45 series to 65 series, speed index of W (270km/h), V (240km/h) and H (210km/h). My personal opinion after covering about 3000kms on these tyres now is that they are FANTASTIC! My 1st 1000kms with them was a struggle for grip but now that its worn in and the protective coating is gone it seriously handles! On the freeway to Sydney and back its really comfortable and taking corners at 110km/h and above is a breeze, don't need much steering input at all compared to old Bridgestone Turanzas and the car feels much "flatter" and steadier. Just my opinion but they are great tyres for the money ;) Yokohama website Full Yokohama C.drive brochure

They are pretty good tyres and i was also considering them too but they were slightly more than $200 each in 16inch so i thouht i'll try Yokohama. Maybe can also try Pirelli P6000/7000?

$150 is a really good price, what size are you using Northy? My C.drive 205/50R16 87W cost me $200 each. ← stock 15s :) ← ic thanks Shao, but still good price for the Yokohama AVS ES100. ;)

Yeh the TRD might look the same as the K&N but the material used for the pod might be different so i don't know about using a K&N cleaning kit on the TRD pod. Besides i already have a K&N pod and its smaller so it doesn't touch the fog light ;) The TRD pod will be for sale after if anyone wants it.

$150 is a really good price, what size are you using Northy? My C.drive 205/50R16 87W cost me $200 each.

I got 2 x 5 cent dents and its noticeable as when its clean. I am learning to live with it, i think one is from someone's door and the other from a rock or pebble.. another alternative is just don't clean your car that often :P

I think the TRD pod filter is also based on K&N. I had a look at my TRD pod today and its really filthy after 20,000kms, some parts of the filter is literally black. Time for the K&N to go on soon i think.. Hopefully i don't go backwards in the power/torque department since its the K&N pod with the funnel i have now, a little smaller and clears the fog light with no issues ;) How's te AEM pod Dylan? Does it touch the fog light forcing you to push the pod up the pipe abit more?

Same as Bill said.. i think mine is more the selector cables as it was fixed before. Will update all of yous once i've done and will post some pics. In the meantime turn up the radio..

Maybe Yokohama C-drive since its what i'm using? It says its got a new compound making it quiter ;)

haha.. no egene i think Lucio's gf is a poorer driver otherwise how would a pre-facelift Stivo with CAI lose to a facelifted model :P :P

also in regards to filters i think the ITG has greater airflow but not as good filtering compared to like say K&N. ITG has predominantly been tested/used on race cars like F1 that require max airflow hence the foam design (HKS foam filters also flow great amounts of air but has poor filtering capabilities), and remember F1 engines only last 1 or 2 races before rebuilding so. I think K&N has been more widely tested and used on street cars and because of their design with the oil it traps finer dirt particles and if you are after more security i would go with K&N. But at the end of day its again up to individual preference. If youthinking of getting every kw out of your car go with ITG but if you keeping your car for donkey years i don't know, maybe stick with factory airbox and paper filter :P

Or maybe she just drives better than you... :D :D :D ← Is that a bit of sarcasm there Egene since Lucio is saying the gf driving the 03' with CAI is slower :P . How abt trying both cars out with an RSM? ;) That would be a good idea wouldn't it? Do repeated runs back to back with only one driver (that's you of course!) and let us know what the results are.. even then i think the margin would be so small its up for scrutiny again..

Its just annoying to me, if its a RWD losing traction and having to grab opposite lock that IS FUN but a FWD yuk :P

Hey Justin, your might be gear cable rattles. Check out the other topic. Its an easy fix with 3 cable ties, i had it done before when my car was new.

When are you going Bill, how about posting this in the meets/events section. I wouldn't mind going actually, just need helmet and stuff and more info on drag racing at WSID. Would be good to see what sort of time i can mange.