Hiro

And making sure it isn't too close to a bend. Basically Toyota MAFs work best in straight smooth flow of the same diameter as the stock piping.

What size piping did you use? Does it retain the original MAF sensor?

Need to take "fits" descriptions online with a grain of salt (there are 3 different 10th generation Corollas, the JDM narrow-body E140, the Asian/North American wide-body E140, and the Australian/African/European wide-body E150). Also, the "after" picture is of a different car anyway, looks like an XV40 Camry

One thing to remember @jiro, are you trying to fit your foot under the pedal when the brake is applied or when it is disengaged? The pedal usually comes up quite a way when the brake is off (otherwise it would be a safety hazard in case of an accident, not to mention a shin-breaker).

Which Hiace? All the 1KD Hiaces I can find are 100kw, and they have a lower compression ratio than the 126kw Hilux (15:1 vs 17.9:1) There is an 80kW Hiace but it has the 2.5L 2KD rather than the 3.0L 1KD.

Quick look at the parts catalogues and it does appear the the standard transmission oil cooler on the Avalon is a standalone unit, so it is probably just the factory one

Is the transmission cooler a standalone one or part of the lower radiator tank?

Try checking UK forums etc, the Avensis is what Toyota Europe sold as the family car instead of the Camry

Isn't the 03-08 Matrix the ZZ-engined one, which would therefore use C-series boxes?

What actually was worn though? As I said, in modern manual transmissions all forward gears are always engaged with each other, when you "select" a gear what you are actually doing is locking that gear on to the output shaft via dogs (the synchromesh is used to get the dogs spinning at the same speed before they engage). It is wear on the linkages, synchromesh and collars/dogs that impacts "selecting" a gear

Gears are in constant mesh (except for reverse), if you can't get it in to a gear then you're looking at a broken linkage, selector fork or collar. A properly broken gear (which is not a small thing) would likely grenade the whole box.

Just a heads-up, this thread is 4-1/2 years old, and the original poster hasn't been back since 4 days after it was posted.

Coilovers are rarely the best choice for comfort anyway

Keep an eye out for ZRE152 coilovers, I believe they will work fine too - the main thing to be aware is that the rear suspension design of these cars has the springs separate from the shocks, whereas a lot of aftermarket stuff online is either for the IRS Auris, or for the US-spec sedan which has the springs over the shocks (I think Aus sedans are the same too, since they're both technically ZRE172s not 182s).

Remember it isn't wheel-size that determines the change to the speedo, it is the total diameter of the wheel/tyre combo (normally when you upsize your wheels you go smaller on tyre sidewall so that the overall diameter is the same).

If your speedo is currently reading over (which it is, and is also completely legal by the way), then going to a bigger rolling diameter will fix this (just make sure to not go too big and make the speedo read under.

So we've managed now to roll over a good 6 months before resisting the temptation to do any modifications (wife at least wanted it to get to the first service completely stock, and OEM floor mats/boot liner/weathershields don't count as mods in my book). First thing on the cards was to give it a little more oomph in the noise department, however one problem about the Aus-spec ZRE182 is that the exhaust system is different from the ZRE186 that most of the world got (due to torsion-beam vs IRS) which means tracking down aftermarket parts can be quite exhausting (pun intended). However, it does actually share a lot of things in common with the previous model ZRE152 (including suspension and exhaust), and by sheer coincidence someone was selling a 152 TRD axleback (that they had on a 182 so I knew it would fit) - couldn't say no to that. After a few weeks of sitting in my mate's shed (too far for me to pick up and too expensive to post) I finally got my hands on it, only to then have to jet off to China for work for two weeks, only getting back less than 24 hours before I had to leave again for Toyotafest. Took another 2 weeks before I managed to jag a break in both my schedule and the weather, but fortunately as far as mods go this was probably the easiest I have ever done (2 bolts and one rubber exhaust hanger). by Ian Rigby, on Flickr Comparison between the stock axleback and the TRD unit - interestingly the TRD muffler is actually smaller, and the exhaust tip sticks out quite a bit further (which is good since the stock one is hidden way up behind the bumper). The TRD tip sits quite low too, no doubt to take in to account the TRD bodykit for the ZRE152 (which obviously the 182 doesn't have) - only really stands out if you're looking dead level at it, from head height or one the road it looks fine. Sounds is nicely improved without being intrusive or obnoxious, and would easily pass even current stupidly stringent noise tests. Most noticeable off the line as well as during engine-braking and coming to a stop, very little booming or resonance at highway speeds which is also nice (always worse in a hatchback) and at some speeds/engine-loads you can barely tell it is there. Next step is probably some kind of lowering, but that'll probably have to wait until bonus-time next year.

For forced-induction cars (especially ones without intercoolers), the intake piping etc will absorb heat ("soak") as the car gets warm which then impacts the effectiveness of the turbo/supercharger (warm air is less dense), reducing power.

Have the lift bolts been replaced?

Sounds perfectly reasonable then

So your profile says you're in Victoria, yet you're asking for a service in Newcastle (which is in NSW) and you have an XLE which is an American model, and this is Australia......

FYI you're replying to a topic started 8.5 years ago by a poster who hasn't been on here in more than 5 years.....

25% is a pretty conservative number for a FWD car, although being auto would also play in to it. Then again, dynos being dynos means you can really only compare same day, same dyno results, or at least same dyno same car (for before/after).

That's 6.4L/100km, was it mostly city driving or a bit of highway thrown in too?

It's impossible to predict the future (especially so far away) but I highly doubt any "sticker-pack" car from the last 20-30 years will ever be a collectible as in the end there is just nothing special about them.