Tony Prodigy

I don't follow regarding the downshifting differences Ash. What are you experiencing ? One of biggest bug bears on the open road is Caravan drivers and Horse float drivers

I totally agree with you on the WOT. You have to "blow the cobwebs" out occasionally of course, but you have to agree the above comment was hilarious 🤣

Sounds like you may have a loose ground wire somewhere in the light circuit. You may need the assistance of an auto electrician if your not inclined electrically.

🤣🤣🤣

No comment lol, except to say you're better off taking the luxury saloon. After all you want full comfort and power on tap mate

Hi Keith, I suspect that part your looking for is most likely not available anywhere. I would go as far as saying that Toyota never went to any length or cost to make such a part as the 3rd row seat would most likely never be removed normally. You can try Toyota abroad to see if such an item exists but I doubt you will find any joy there either. You can always go to Clark rubber and get some Grey foam and push it into the hole there. Quick fix.

You need to post more information. What model Hilux are we talking about ? Do you actually have low fuel or could you be reporting a potential issue ? You can't expect help when you're being vague. There could be a multitude of things going on.

I was intrigued by this and went looking. "press point to red dot" is weird. Without seeing the screen there, I'm not sure if this is prompting you to touch the so called "red dot" if there is such a thing appearing on the screen. Do you remember at which part of the menu you were in and what you pressed ?? Are you able to upload a picture of the issue ? With the screen being blue, I'm not sure if that's a result of your pressing the wrong thing or it could be simply the blue screen of death. Could be a coincidence. What I did find in the limited info available, you could try doing several of these "resets". These are what I found. #2 may be specific to Corolla, but it's worth a try. Failing all this, you can try doing a power down by disconnecting the battery terminal and wait 10 minutes or so and then see if it comes back to life. It may ask for a pin code. Take a look in your owners manual for audio information. Good luck and hope to hear back from you. Solving this could be valuable to others too. 1. How do I reset my Toyota audio system? Press and hold the audio system power button for 3 seconds. Then a menu will pop up and ask you if you want to reboot the system 2. How do I reset my Toyota Touch screen? To calibrate a 2014 toyota corolla touch screen, press the volume button hold it down for 5 seconds. The screen will then light up and be able for touch screen use. 3. How do you do a hard reset? Press and hold the power and volume up buttons together to load the recovery mode. Using the Volume buttons to scroll through the menu, highlight Wipe data/factory reset. Press the Power button to select. Highlight and select Yes to confirm the reset.

You could keep your control arms and try and get the right bushings if possible. I know it's a bit more work. You'd need someone to press them out and re insert them.

Yep. Stay safe Ashley AND she who must be obeyed too. When are you heading off ?

You can't go wrong with any CarPro products either. I have this also including Gyeon products.

I was under the impression that the 2GR-FE was direct and port injected.

Great to see you're satisfied Robert. That Nextzett product is very popular with the hardcore detailing community and will serve you well. You can even use it for tar spots on the bottom sections of the car too. It's a very versatile product. It's excellent value considering how good it is, which is why I also invested in the 5lt. I will always use it. If you are also inclined, you can use it to decontaminate inside the wheel arches including brakes and suspension. It will safely dissolve all the crud build up and best used with a pressure washer too. Good for you mate. I can't wait to see some pics. Those inner barrels are screaming out, "clean me, clean me"

Yes, very good. That oil will be fine. If you can afford a fully synthetic oil then of course you can always upgrade for the extra protection the fully Synth will provide. Nothing wrong with the Magnatech oil. I used that oil in a '95 Rav 4 I owned many years ago. Had it for 12 years in fact and it ran like clockwork.

If this is for the Auto transmission, it's way too early. See what service interval your service book says. I would even say too early for the engine oil. Engine oil is really up to you though. It can 5k, 7.5k or 10k. The longer the service interval the better the oil you should be using. Preferably fully synthetic.

But in essence, the cooler air coming back is advantageous no ? Also, the air coming back shouldn't have any oil vapour ? I also wonder if the catch can wasn't emptied in time would the liquid come back into the engine and cause it to smoke ?

Yes. He mentions this @ 13:16 that there is enough room to go to a bigger seat but not a whole lot of room. So you'd need to be careful. Not a whole lot but to say that the 2GR-FE head was nicely designed and care was taken to make sure it worked as efficiently as possible from a manufacturing perspective. Toyota made it thick enough to make it work as intended but not thick enough to add unnecessary weight. But having said that, he did see that there is some potential for porting mainly in the tops and bottoms but not a whole lot in the sides. The water jackets are too close. You gotta love that surface grinder making mince meat of that aluminium.

🤣🤣🤣 100 % in agreement, although it's me doing the swearing and having the high blood pressure sometimes. I have to whisper the choice words to myself so my young fella doesn't hear me lol.. That's the ticket mate. I don't mind having to do the mechanical repairs and maintenance, but this is by far my favourite part. It's like the cherry on the cake.

Man, remember how much work a simple valve cover gasket used to be compared to these modern era cars. I'd have the rocker cover off a falcon 6 or my old 351 Cleveland in around 20 seconds lol. The job here on the 2GR is like day surgery. Try not to forget where stuff goes and not lose any bolts. Sheesh. I don't envy that job one bit.

I found this pretty interesting and thought others may too.

Here's one of youtube's finest talking about catch cans.

If you have an allen key set, there will most likely be one that fits. Normally people don't buy singular allen keys. They are usually better value purchased as a set. If you plan to be doing a lot of the preventative maintenance on your car yourself, you need to invest in the basic tool kit.

🤣 Whoever told you that needs an uppercut. Of course you need to change the brake fluid. As the above post mentions, it's relatively easy if you have either a 2nd person to man the foot pedal or simply use a pressure bleeder or a vacuum bleeder. I personally have the pressure bleeder and it's great. I fill the pressure tank with 1lt of brake fluid and give it a thorough purge.

Yes, same here and still had a hard time with it. Just when you think it's wiped off, you look at it from a different angle and you can still see the damn streaks, and I use proper glass cleaning/wiping microfibre towels too. It's a bugger of a product. Maybe mine came from a different batch to yours. I'll still use it, but it will be the last time I'll buy one. I'm gonna ceramic coat my glass after this.

I suspect you're using this Rain-X product I have this and the 2 in 1 (cleaner repellant) I did use the first product and found it too smeary when trying to wipe it off. It needs a lot of elbow grease to get the stuff off so much I even wrote to Rain-X complaining about it. I settled for the 2nd product. Does the same job and is much easier to use. This is the stuff I wipe onto the wiper blades too.