Tony Prodigy

Rain-X lasts quite a long time. I've had beading even after six months. I also like to wipe the leading edge of the wiper blade when I apply the product.

I could safely say that mine would be too. I am pretty fussy when it comes to cars and I like to keep all my cars in Tip Top shape. I have every confidence that my cars will perform flawlessly over the course of an extended trip. Even if you need supplementary on the run repairs, there are plenty of places around along the way. Removing surplus items from the boot is also a good idea. You don't want to drag unnecessary weight along.

She's getting there Ashley. After what you had to go through to desludge her over the years, all the hard work is finally paying off. That road trip will be the medicine it needs I think. It needs a good long run, just like the extended wash cycle on a washing machine. I hope you guys have a safe and enjoyable trip Ash. I'm assuming your girlfriend is also coming along.. You should try removing the PCV and shooting some diesel/tranny fluid mix in via the threaded hole instead of the regular oil fill spot. This way, you get to wash that section as you fill it.

I'm surprised to hear that actually Ash. Which beams did you buy ? Ther cheap set I purchased are as good as the more expensive beams around. So far so good. Some stuff coming out of China can be garbage and sometimes their ok. Depends on who's making it I guess.

Yeah, thanks mate. It was more a labour of love too. I know a mechanic shop can't spend that much time doing what I did and that's understandable, but for me, I'd rather spend the whole day doing it right. This gives me great satisfaction knowing everything is sound and clean. The bonus will be cleaner wheels and hopefully barrels and calipers. This will also mean less cleaning time. I'll definitely report back on brake dust, but I have to say, the pads perform exceptionally well. I would even say better than the Bendix CT pads. I have to do more road miles to further conclude this however. I'll post back Cheers guys

We affectionately refer to him as "the lunatic"

Haha nice Robert ! That's a plan made in heaven mate, but unfortunately the rain has set in over here too. I was planning on washing mine too but not to worry, another excuse for a lazy weekend to reset after a busy week. Glad you received the Nextzett. That is some high quality product. You won't be sorry.Give the wheels a hit with the pressure cleaner then spray away. Allow some dwell time. You'll notice the colour bleed out to purple as it reacts with the iron contamination. It's very satisfying to watch. Agitate with your wheel brushes to help drive it out of the pores and then pressure wash again. You may even want to give it a second hit depending on how bad it is. Just take your time. I like to do two wheels at a time. If the product dries out a little you can simply mist some water over it to reactivate it. Enjoy. Your too kind. I'm glad to be of some assistance. All the best and enjoy your weekend.

It's possible for an engine to take a number two 🤣 (part 2 primarily) Part 1 Part 2

How can I argue with logic like that. That makes sense Ash. You'd have to fully deflate the tyre, remove the schrader core and somehow inject the liquid in and rotate wheel to try and evenly distribute the 303.

I'm not sure about that, but it's plausible although there would be some minute clearance between the disc and the pad, but if the sliders are getting sticky then the pad may not release correctly and remain in contact, somewhat, with the disc surface and create that hot spot. I wonder though, if the pad can actually get hotter than the disc itself. I'm thinking not.

I have no objection to RDA either. I don't remember why I chose DBA rotors for mine. On a price for price basis, they're much of a muchness. RDA seem to have the same quality control as everybody else. If it's Australian made, that's good enough for me. Forget Toyota, they're a rip off. Sorry Toyota, it is what it is. I'd also invest in a torque wrench Stephen. They're pretty cheap these days and you don't need a fancy schmancy one either. Trade Tools have great sales occasionally. You might want to keep an eye out for these https://www.tradetools.com/

WD40 make lithium spray. There should be a selection where you find any Lithium sprays.

I honestly think that would be a waste of time and product Ashley. I wonder if by having the inner coated in 303, how much of a part can it play in reducing tyre wear. This could be another tyre test by anyone who has the time or inclination. Just coat the inside and conduct a wear test. Then have another coated on the inside and out. Where's Mythbusters when you need them lol. ( Also on that note. Grant Imahara sadly passed away on July 13th of this year. 49 years old. Suffered a brain aneurysm. Terrible loss) The more obvious would be the outer side. So re coating the outside gives the rubber more opportunity to absorb the product and work it's magic there. I look forward to the results.

I suspect the writer is getting a kick back from DBA don't you think ? Manufacturing can have a lot to do with it and I'm not sure how to gauge Toyota's quality control for their disc rotors. I have replaced my fronts not because of warpage but for being scored and didn't want to machine them. My rears are still original and are fine. I think that over torquing wheels nuts can have a detrimental effect as is wetting the wheels when they're hot. You don't want to spray the hot disc with water. I would also say you probably had one or the other or a combination of both. I never wash my car after it's been driven for this very reason. I'd allow it to cool down or just wait till the morning to do it. Disc rotors are pretty cheap so It may be a good time to just replace them and if you don't have a torque wrench, I'd get one. Don't let the tyre people rattle gun the wheels nuts to buggery either. One of my biggest bug bears. Have you ever tried to get a wheel nut loose after the Apes have had a go at it ? I nearly popped a vein in my head !

I forgot that MY service schedule is out of sync with the Toyota "recommended" schedule and by the time I did my 115k service the leaf in the book where I record my service corresponded to the 150k one. This is what threw me. I jumped the gun on the fuel filter then. I think I'll just leave it for a while. The very least, I got to inspect it, learned how to disassemble and re assemble the darn thing and clean that strainer. Should make the pump a little more happy I think. I'd be interested to see the overall condition of your fuel delivery assembly there Ash, especially the pump strainer. If it is in fact the original and having well over 200,000km on it and it's still functioning well, that would be very interesting.

Good to hear mate. There's nothing better than a good night's sleep, oh, and a sludge free 2GR-FE I can give you an accurate measurement next time I hook up my scan tool. I'll keep that one in mind Ash. The engineers were correct then recommending the 5w-30. The engine seems to like it that's all I know.

Others might have a better idea, but i'm thinking a Lanolin based spray would be better than both what you specified Geoff. WD and silicon spray with dry out and wash away where as the Lanolin will have a tendency to resist both and hang around longer. Lanolin will resist water and lubricate.

Mmm, that's interesting. 150K seems a bit high. If I recall, mine was flagged at 115K but I'll have to take another look. At least you'll have no worries getting a fuel filter for your car Ash 😁 Correction: I just had a look and it also shows 150K for the in-tank fuel filter. I must have got it confused with my service scheduling.

This should be everyone's thoughts too. What little fuel saving you can gain is totally negligible vs long term engine survival. I'd take the latter any day. The Aurion has pretty excellent fuel economy anyway and I can't really be bothered trying to squeeze 5 fifths of "you know what" 😁

Your ears must've been burning Ash, because I was having the very same thought about this very topic this morning and I came across this video. You all should know who this guy is. The 0w-20 talk happens at around 5 mins.

That is very interesting. The videos were very cool to watch actually. The camera in the tyre is crazy ! We never really appreciate how much torture the tyres take do we. Good job. I also love his video production quality. Watching the second video and seeing the torturing of the suspension and wheels going over those huge pot holes is amazing too. Damn, that front control arm cops a hammering !! Thanks for the links Geoff. I really enjoyed the videos

I admire the dedication, but I find it very difficult to subscribe to that theory I'm always in the dog house until I service her car for her lol..

Good outcome Jack. Fancy the bolt being loose on the dog bone. They are usually tightened to spec from factory and that's quite tight. For it to come loose is strange. I agree with the you-tube thing too mate. It's always a great learning tool for us and in general watching those you mentioned rebuild cars that otherwise should've been binned. One in particular was by a you tuber called DIY Gang. He fully rebuilt a Dodge Hellcat that was burned to a crisp. The car was toast, with the roof caved in etc. We all though he was mad, but he pulled it off ! Talk about hard work, OMG ! Watch this:

Your very welcome Nathan. Much appreciated. It's original if it has paint on it. It's possible it may have been cleaned at some point and the tube wasn't. It's funny though, I didn't notice any green marking on mine and I mine is 100% original. I'll have to take another look when possible. I'm also thinking that they may have used a semi synthetic oil in yours which perhaps led to the extra gunk in the tubing. Not sure. Overall, I think it's ok. Just clean everything and start using a high quality synthetic oil and if your inclined, install a catch can. I'm going to consider one at some point myself.