AurionX2

2 years and 42.000kms later, time for drain and refill on my 2008. Only 2.4l came out this time without dropping the pan, 2.45l went back in. Same Penrite LV used. So far so good.

38psi around Melbourne on a 40 degrees hot day means squealing at every turn, unbearable 😀 For trips, though, I go with 36-38psi depending on the weather, if it's a rather cool day I'm comfortable with pumping in 38. Have a safe trip Mike, I'm sure you'll enjoy the car on open road, very little road noise AND VERY responsive when overtaking is needed.

Not a fan of overfilling the petrol tank, not really worth it. https://www.cnet.com/roadshow/news/overfilling-gas-tank-topping-off-dangers/

Using a Sony XAV-AX5000 in my 2008 Touring, good stuff.

I'd change it too, did it on mine and will keep doing it every ~2 years or 40k, whichever comes first. Cheap insurance they call it. You need to make sure you get the level right. Other items you should look for, apart from the service history (it *DOES* have a full service history, doesn't it? :D) - Outstanding recalls, at least for the VVTi oil line. If it's not full metal go to your nearest Toyota service centre and book it in, it's free of charge but they'll want the car for the whole day. Think there was also a recall for the window switch for some VINs? - Water pump & alternator - quite rare, but may be on the way out. Regardless, if it hasn't had the coolant changed you should change it, the service schedule in the owner manual wants it change after 10 years or 160.000kms, then every 75k kms. - Dash - does it look & feel shiny & sticky?

Hi, I don't know what you mean by "keeping all car features (door lock, lights etc.)", but I've recently replaced the stock HU in my 2008 Aurion with a Sony XAV-AX5000 using a Kenwood CMOS-130 reverse camera and overall the experience has been very positive thus far. Installed it using the Aerpro kit (fascia, ISO harness and steering wheel patch lead to retain the steering wheel controls) and I'm using AA with my LG G6 phone, which gave me a fair bit of grief cause it kept disconnecting / crashing with 3 different cables, while my wife's LG V30 works perfectly with whatever cheap/torn/abused USB C cable I find lying around. I'm now using a 1m Anker Powerline+ USB C cable for my crappy G6 bought off Amazon and so far so good, rock solid. Cable matters with some unit / phone combinations apparently. For the HU there are plenty of options out there (Kenwood, Alpine, Sony, cheap Chinese Android units etc), need to do a bit of research to work out what's best for you in your price bracket. Autobarn have regularly 30% off audio sales (that's where I bought my Sony unit from) and for the reverse camera and the Aerpro kit for your car you've got Autobarn, SCA or various online retailers.

Yeah, welcome to the club 🙂 I was $600 out of pocket for this at an independent when it happened, so $750 at Toyota isn't that much of a rip-off. While it's belly up get them to do the VVT oil line, it's a recall item and should be free of charge if your car is still running on the original rubber crap.

Try amayama

Check the oil level, quite likely below minimum. If you don't know how to do it take it to a mechanic. Also look under the car, any oil underneath?

Had mine replaced recently and I think we need to clarify something here. There are TWO separate oil lines, front and rear. Only the front one is apparently scope of the recall, visible from under the car as you look up to the oil filter casing you'll immediately see two hoses. On the pre 2009 cars they're rubber, from 2009 onwards they're all metal. The rear one, next to the serpentine belt, is still the rubber one in my case, they quoted me 435aud to have it replaced with the all metal version. Told them I'll keep an eye on it for now, the car's approaching 180k kms, still running strong and pretty much trouble free, see how it goes. Checked quite a few other Aurions and Klugers and all from 2009 onward had the all metal rear pipe installed, so I'd assume the front one, visible from underneath, is also the metal version. In the end still think it's best to contact your nearest Toyota service shop, give them the VIN and see what they say.

Thanks folks, contacted the nearest dealer about this and just booked mine, which is also "due for a recall", for the replacement. Should this topic be set as sticky for all forum sections discussing the models with 2GR-FE engine? Think it's important that people like me, who didn't get contacted by Toyota yet, to contact the dealer and find out if their car(s) may be eligible for the free oil line replacement.

Exactly the same here, verbatim 🙂 Not an annoyance anymore, got used to it. So far I've tried: - Wheel alignment, fixed it for a couple of months - Using 36psi tyre pressure - Wheels rotation every 5-6k kms Apart from the slightest pull to the left, no other related issues like uneven tyre wear. Edit: Maybe this is what "Suspension tuned for Australian conditions" really means? :)

Not going to argue with you on this, you know better what you've been driving and later traded in 🙂 All I'm saying is: in 2002 there was no 3.5 V6 Toyota engine in production. 2GR came out in 2004-2005 and in Australia from 2006 with the GSV40 Aurion. But who knows, maybe few photos might be able to convince me.

There is no 2002 3.5v6 Camry.

It'd be interesting to see the error code(s), if any.

Also worth checking for coolant leaks, pre-2009 models are known for dodgy water pumps. You may consider the coolant replacement, it's a 12 year old car and the coolant is good for 10 years or 165.000kms. Oh and how is the dash looking, is it sticky & shiny?

I'm using RDA 8112 rotors with Bendix DB2243 GCT pads for more than a year, no issues.

Could be the ABS self check? They all do it, it's even mentioned somewhere in the owner manual. https://www.toyotanation.com/threads/abs-self-check-sound.235426/ https://www.toyotanation.com/threads/i-hear-a-clunk-sound-when-i-first-start-driving-on-my-2010-camry.379650/ L.E. Found it, it's on page 136 in the manual, "Sounds and vibrations caused by the ABS, brake assist, VSC and TRC systems"

Haven't heard of such cleaning product, can you ask them to offer more details on it? And you have to book the car in for 2 days? And as Ashley said, what kind of warranty do they provide? When I did our Aurions I didn't use any extra product, only what was required: gasket, strainer, o-ring and fluid. Rather than flushing with who knows what I think it's more important to drop the pan and clean it properly. And no, I didn't have to work for 2 days for transmission service. And no, I'm not a mechanic. See if you can get few quotes from independent transmission specialists.

What's that conditioner?

I use this: https://www.nulon.com.au/products/cooling-systems/red-premium-long-life-pre-mix-coolant But you can't go wrong with Toyota SLLC.

It's really easy to use, comes with fittings for most common radiator caps. One thing you need to keep an eye on when refilling the radiator is to not overfill excessively, otherwise the extra coolant will go back in the bottle if the level overflow tank is at full mark. In my case I chose to leave it slightly above full when hot. When cold it drops about an inch below full mark. Because I used the funnel with the front of the car slightly lifted using the jack stands I have no airlocks and the heater started blowing hot air as soon as the engine warmed up. Didn't need to top up after servicing it, meaning the funnel did its job.

Milo, my 2008 had a water pump failure around 130k mark. Mechanic refilled with Castrol Radicool pink, pretty sure they haven't flushed the existing SLLC completely. 2 years and 30k kms later I drained the radiator myself (around 4.4l came out) and refilled with Nulon Long Life premix. No issues at all, I've still got some 4 odd litres left for another drain/fill. As you've crunched the numbers already, it's impossible to flush the system completely and replace all coolant. Drain and refill is good enough to replenish the anti corrosion aditives. Besides, if you want to take the coolant out of the heater core you need to remove the thermostat, which isn't exactly a trivial job. Or fill it with water 2/3 times and drive it around to get the engine temperature up so that the thermostat will open. Too much faffing around. If I really should recommend you something on this topic: spend 50-55aud on the Lisle spill free funnel kit, makes bleeding a breeze. Rather than worrying about flush vs drain, or Toyota SLLC vs Nulon, just buy the spill free kit, you'll be amazed by how helpful it is in getting the job done 🙂

It's a rar file so pretty much any modern file manager can unpack it. On Windows I vouch for Total Commander, on Android I'm using File Manager from Asustek and on Linux, well the sky is the limit 😀 BTW thanks for the archive, some really useful information in there.

Yeah, sounds like a bearing, removing the belt takes the pressure off the pulley.