AurionX2

I'm using RDA discs with Bendix GCT DB2243. Be aware on Aurion there can be 2 types of pads, DB1474 or 2243. See this article: https://www.bendix.com.au/bendix-news/comparing-db1474-db2243-toyota-camry-aurion-v40 I'd avoid the really cheap Chinese nonames and stick with the brands.

Another 2gr-fe Aurion owner here, currently 167.600k, the only engine specific issue I had was the water pump, started dripping & spitting around 125k, then after about 7000 kilometres more and fortnightly top ups decided to leave this world for a better one. AU$600 all up at the local mechanic for pump replacement & coolant. Other items to check are the spark plugs, the 3 at the back are a b!tch and the transmission, while generally reliable they don't like being neglected, especiall if they've done some towing. For a 4wd you may want to look at servicing the transfer case if necessary. At that mileage service history is essential. As Ashley said, these engines tend to sludge up if neglected.

When I had to replace my front pads on my 2008 I had the same dilemma: DB1474 & DB2243 and without taking the caliper off I wouldn't have a clue. So I went to Repco, gave them the rego and they told me I need 2243. So I took advantage of a 30% discount and bought them from the shop, in case they were the wrong ones I was able to return them, which isn't always the case with the online purchases. Funny thing is, my wife's 2013 is using the same rotors & calipers 🙂 I can only second what the other posters replied: take a pad with you to the shop, or at least give them the plate number and see what they suggest.

We have 2 Aurions and the 2013 one feels "rougher" than the 2008. Both on the stock 16" alloy wheels, new rear shock absorbers on the 2008, changed about 15k kms ago.

Good you picked it up. How many kms?

Why do you want to do it?

Finished earlier today my wife's 2013 Aurion, 59987kms with no transmission service to date. Pan drop + fluid exchange using the return cooler line. On the pita bolt an interesting fact, managed to get it out just with a 10mm ratchet ring spanner, nothing else needed. Bit finicky but irrelevant in the big picture anyway, I swapped the bolt for an allen head one. Other things to note: -the Ryco RTK201 kit comes without the o-ring. Reused the original. - the shaving on the bottom of the pan and especially on the two magnets looked just as bad as what I found on my 2008 Aurion, which did around 142.000 kms when I pulled the pan first time. Following the math induction principle, looks like most crap like metal shavings etc makes its way to the bottom of the pan in the first 60k 🙂 So to all the folks involved in the "sealed for life" tranny design & manufacturing: up yours you f^*&wits may you all r()t in h3ll. - I can confirm (is it really necessary?) that the fluid exchange led to much smoother shifts. Literally, no 2-3 and 3-4 changes are barely noticed. Initially I thought my wife's car shifts were a bit harsher - more noticeable than my 2008 Aurion, already serviced last year - due to age, materials, TCM programming etc. Plain wrong, reckon it was the fluid, changing the WS & flushing with Penrite made a hell of a lot of difference. It literally feels like another car now when warm you need to keep your eyes on the tacho to notice the shifts. I'm really curious to see the difference in shifting between Penrite ATF LV and Valvoline Maxlife. Still got about 6litres of Penrite left in the shed, will use those for the next 2 drain/refills, then will test the Valvoline. Long story short, U660E must be serviced. Whoever says otherwise is either lying, or they've no idea.

Owning both GSV40 and GSV50, I'd have no regrets going for the Aurion, if it's in good mechanical condition and comes up with *some* service history. Caveat emptor, of course.

Worth checking the bonnet switch, had a Sonata who started doing this randomly during hot days and fixed it after spraying some contact cleaner on the switch and adding an extra washer at each end to get it to sit a tad higher.

Peter, it's the one to the left in the photo, that goes straight into the radiator in a 90 degrees angle. Remove it and place it into an empty bottle / can, I prefer a measuring jug. http://photobucket.com/gallery/user/hardtopte72/media/cGF0aDpESVkgU2VjdGlvbi9JTUdfMTQ5Ny0yX3pwc2U2ZTVkNTgzLmpwZw==/?ref= https://www.toyotanation.com/forum/104-camry-5th-6th-gen-2002-2006-2007-2011-2nd-gen-solara-2004-2008/576361-diy-2007-2011-v6-2010-2011-i4-camry-6-speed-auto-transmission-flush-pics.html

Sorry mate, don't happen to know first hand any good transmission shop in or around Melbourne. But I've read and heard Knox Automatics are pretty good.

Been discussed quite a bit here and on toyotanation, the quasi-unanimous opinion is: don't do the forced flush with the flush machine, however replacing the fluid using the cooler return line (1l out. 1l in) should and does work well if done right. $250 for a flush using the return lines sounds more than reasonable if the whole procedure, including the fluid level check at the right temperature, is followed without any shortcuts. Ask them how they'll do it first, whether it's drain/refill or flush and how they do it.

What happened before the lights came on?

Right, so you did a drain & refill, not a full flush? You may have miscalculated the ATF amount when topping up. If you want to further dig into the issue google "U660E Automatic Transaxle pdf", you may be able to find the file available for download. Makes for a very interesting reading, including how to run various test on the gearbox. But regardless, I'd suggest you go to a reputable transmission workshop and see what they say. Good luck, hopefully you'll have it fixed without breaking the bank.

Sorry to hear about your tranny grief. Few question: 1. Did the problem start before or after changing the ATF? 2. How did you change the ATF and how did you check the fluid level back then? 3. What's the fluid level like now? No point in going to Toyota for the gearbox, they'll take it to a transmission specialist anyway, better go directly to a specialist yourself. Heard from several sources Knox Automatics in Rowville are pretty good. If I were you I'd review the ATF change and check the level first, but only if you're comfortable with the steps and know what you're doing.

Ask them why would they have to change the springs. I'll be changing my rear struts hopefully this weekend, bought the pair of KYB 339112 and 339113 for 224aud few months ago off eBay, plus 240 labour at UltraTune. Ask around for other quotes, you don't really need to go to a suspension specialist for struts replacement.

So uniquely tuned many of them exhibit the "pull to the left" feature? :) I understand there might have been a lot of work locally on/for the Aurion, just nobody seems to tell me exactly *what* and *where*. Everything I've read so far about it is terribly vague and doesn't seem to even scratch the surface.

I read that, however I still don't understand exactly what parts of what's been named Aurion were designed in Australia. Whichever way I look at it, the Aurion is still a Camry which is why I'm asking. Did a bit of reading myself but couldn't find much information on it. There's the front grille, the headlights, taillights, here and there some touches, is that it?

It's still unclear to me what is exactly Australian in the Aurion. Apart from some more or less subtle body differences to the XV40 Camry and comparing it with the US Camry V6 version and the V6 versions sold in various parts of Asia, I don't know where to look further. Moved the steering wheel from left to right? That's not redesign. Or perhaps the ongoing audio entertainment coming from the centre console rattles due to the 3 layers of plastic, all of different textures, used? :) Not trying to start a flame, just asking.

Just walk into Repco, SCA and/or Autobarn on the weekend, give them the model & year and see what they suggest. That's what I did when I had to replace my front pads, Bendix gives 2 codes for the front - 1474 and 2243 - and Repco guy suggested 2243, which is what I then bought and turned out to be the right ones. It pays to ask in store, they're usually pretty good with giving you the right part code.

The ones shipped out of China are most likely cheap knock offs, not sure about the other ones. For Aurion I think you'd be looking at Denso FK20HR11or NGK DILFR6D11, both capable of doing 100.000km+. Considering how much of a pita are the 3 ones at the back to replace, I'd rather go for quality plugs and change them less often :) I'm watching these ones: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1x-TOYOTA-OEM-90919-01247-LASER-IRIDIUM-Spark-Plug-DENSO-3426-FK20HR-11/173006656710?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908131621%26meid%3Db6566a6abc214e2ab0271bf55e9e3ef8%26pid%3D100678%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D5%26sd%3D252760844673%26itm%3D173006656710&_trksid=p2481888.c100678.m3607&_trkparms=pageci%3Af33dceef-9969-11e8-ab1d-74dbd1807185|parentrq%3A0ef279c71650a9cb8330cf0bffff6c62|iid%3A1 https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Set-of-6-New-Genuine-OEM-Denso-Toyota-Iridium-Spark-Plugs-90919-01247-FK20HR11/253320778803?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908131621%26meid%3Db6566a6abc214e2ab0271bf55e9e3ef8%26pid%3D100678%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D5%26sd%3D252760844673%26itm%3D253320778803&_trksid=p2481888.c100678.m3607&_trkparms=pageci%3Af33dceef-9969-11e8-ab1d-74dbd1807185|parentrq%3A0ef279c71650a9cb8330cf0bffff6c62|iid%3A1 - although when adding the shipping costs they're more expensive than the NGKs I bought in store from Repco for I think around 75AUD on sale.

One GSV40R approaching 150k and one GSV50R with ~52k on the clock in the family. Serviced properly they'll likely last a long time. I don't know what your car is like service-wise, but if I were you and the car is faultless I'd service and run it 'til it dies. Depreciation at that odo means nothing. Unless, of course, you want to fork out for a newer car. GSV50R is nice, better handling and interior, but I find the driving position in GSV40R better. Bottom line, take care of it and enjoy it, and it'll take care of you :) L.E. After reading your post again I think you should book your car in for another transmission fluid change. I wouldn't leave the juice in there for more than 40-50k. Get 3 4l drums of Penrite on sale and flush it. If you haven't changed the oil strainer at the 140k service, do this too.

Agreed, the ones I got on my 2008 are rubbish, made in North Korea and bought from Repco. On the bright side I only have to push the bonnet up about twice a month and only for checking the fluids :)

My 2008 Touring water pump went after the 120k service. After the pressure test during the service it started dripping coolant for about 2.000kms, then one afternoon on my way back home it suddenly decided to leave us for a better world. I haven't heard of many dying water pumps on the 2012 onwards Aurions though.

Thought it might be useful to follow up on the gearbox fluid change 7 weeks and ~3800kms later. Overall the car has settled in really well, no slamming into gear when cold, nor flaring when coast anymore. Smooth and responsive, no hesitation when downshifting for overtaking. It literally drives like new, there's no difference afaict when comparing it with my wife's 2013 ATX with 48000kms. Based on *my experience* I sincerely recommend the filter change and full flush *if done right*. P.S. Repco has 30% off all Penrite oils this weekend if interested.