DJKOR

Over here in Sanctuary Cove we just got some heavy rain. Makes it difficult to get around the resort here. It got fairly dark at one point... but it's kind of all over now; just light rain.

I used just standard double sided tape. But that's because mine came off my door and had no adhesive. If you buy a new one, it will come with adhesive. Just don't stuff it up the first time cause it will be decently strong. [/thread hijack]

Just because you may got no gain from the SRI alone, doesn't mean you should drop the idea. Firstly, it sounds great... that would be enough to convince me. Secondly, you can always get the SRI, then later down the track, modify the exhaust to get the gains (if any). If you don't want to spend the high amount for the K&N, get an exhaust shop to make you one. They should be able to save you at least half.

Whoa.... go easy on the picture quoting. Yes mate. That is the new pipe. Just look at the before and after photos in the second post.

Judging from all the things I've done to my car and posted on the forum here, would you think I got someone else to install my rear sway bar? :P It's easy to do yourself without even lifting the car (or putting it on jack stands if it is lowered).

Even if that wasn't the case though, in the end it is a rubber seal. You can't expect rubber seals to be 100% lifetime, that's why o-rings are sold as replacement items. No need to panic mate. It is common with split cable loom to have the ends (and sections along the length) to be wrapped in electrical tape to ensure the cables don't come out and to keep it neat and tidy. Otherwise if the cables came out, the loom would be pointless. Everything you see there is fine. Firstly, I would not say that I thrash my car around. I drive her hard and take good care of her. There is a difference between hard driving and thrashing in my opinion. Anyways, I was only driving her at about 40-50% in that video. Nearly all those corners could have been taken at least 15km/h faster than I did in tat video. Had a group of motorcycles up front slowing us down. To answer the question, I had to use 'S' mode for the simple fact that driving in 'D' around a road like that is a pain in the a**. Left in 'D', the transmission will always try to shift to the highest gear which makes acceleration really laggy. In 'S', I can limit the transmission between 3rd and 4th for greater pickup around corners etc. No performance mods to the engine. I just use a quality oil and keep her in good shape. The only performance mods that I have on this car are TRD suspension (though the Sportivo suspension never stopped me), better brakes, and grippy tires. Also I've made sure to not add additional weight to the car. One key thing I believe has helped a bit (even if it is all in my head) is that I do drive her hard frequently as well and take good care of her so it feels like it has 'adapted' in some way to a harder style of driving.

The issue in my video is a completely different issue to the intermediate shaft. Mine is a steering rack issue which I thought is the steering rack end on the right side, but Fulcrum reckon its just the steering rack mounts (bushes)... which according to Toyota and the parts reference, can't be changed without replacing the entire rack. Even if that wasn't the case though, in the end it is a rubber seal. You can't expect rubber seals to be 100% lifetime, that's why o-rings are sold as replacement items. Probably because of this statement, the issue may not arise till later in it's life.

I wouldn't bother with the 4-point brace as this is not going to provide much benefit in my opinion. As well, it happens to sit rather low so if you do get it, you may have it scrape etc.

Buy the door or fender (2010 model) badge lettering from Toyota,set your spacing and stick em on your console... :) or you can buy that sh!tty plastic chrome lettering from most Autobarns,Supercheap ect ect ect. That is one option, but to truly answer the question mine is from my door. I debadged my car and had some letters to use. If you do buy it though, the part number is as follows: 75443-06580 PLATE, FRONT DOOR NAME (SPVS, SPVZ) or 75443-06570 PLATE, FRONT DOOR NAME (ATX, PRD, PRE) To tell the truth, I really don't know what the difference is between the Sportivo and non-Sportivo 'Aurion' badging. I never really looked at it.

if you go to "my latest aurion mods" MKAY did a run on thy dyno. I think you will find that his gains were complemented by the y-pipe modification. Rowan had a custom made SRI which is in the same form as the K&N and did not get a gain near 11HP. His gain would have more been about 5HP, but he also had removed his resonator and changed his rear mufflers. I personally think that on it's own, the SRI will provide no gain.

I wouldn't be so quick at jumping the gun to blame Toyota just for that issue. For all you know, it could have been stuffed by a previous mechanic over-tightening it and therefore reducing the quality of the seal on future services.

^ That's just like the Aurion one. On the Aurion, it does look like the CD slot is not near the top, but if you take the unit out and look at it side on, the CD slot is right on the top as well, but there is a little trick the unit uses to do it's magic. It can angle the discs. As you can see in the video, the discs are held mainly by the rear-right (appears as lower-left in the video). The discs are then able to be pushed at an angle to allow the discs on top to be pushed up high allowing the discs underneath enough clearance to eject. If you pay attention to the video when the discs move up and down, you can see how they kind of have a bit of movement in them.

In sticking with the purpose of this thread, here is a photo of what my head unit looks like in the car. This applies to the Auspack unit and the unit mentioned in the link above (I'll call it the Auspack update):

Well let us know what price you can get it for then

Feel free to ask, but I am pretty sure they are going to charge a lot for it. I was quoted something like $140 (some time ago though) for the panel filter which you can get for just under AUD$90 landed.

People who dont even look when entering round abouts and expect everyone else to stop for them.!! I accelerate towards them and hit the brakes so I get close to them... just to hopefully scare one of them.

You have to be careful when describing it like that mate. This method only works for amplifiers that have high-level inputs and you must ensure that you connect to that. Some allow high level inputs into the RCA inputs of the amplifier, but I don't trust those (auto-detecting ones anyway) as I've had one fail before. Not all amps have this feature so I don't usually say it to prevent confusion.

My most favourite mod has to be my strut brace and rear sway bar. Never have I been so satisfied over money spent on my car. If I had to give a second favourite, I would have to say my mesh grill and eyelids. I still have people checking out my car as I approach and that leaves me happy.

LOL. I remember those days. The old screwdriver trick had helped many times.

Around $340 posted if you pay the RRP.

That connector my friend is not meant to plug into there. It belongs to the A/C controls.

Your local tip should have an area where you can dispose of old oil.

A drivers' opinion only reflects the abilities of the driver themselves. And by the way, I would say the BA XR6T handles quite well if driven properly... and this is from experience. It may not be many thousands of kilometres of experience, but it's enough to make a judgment. It's about driving the car and not letting the car drive you.

If you are getting just two, you would be better off with the front strut brace and the rear sway bar.

If YOU feel like YOU'RE going to lose control.... then maybe it's not the car at fault. I would pay to see that.