DJKOR

Usually something to check out would be the fuse and/or relay. If this was blown however, all power windows should usually cease to work as well. It doesn't hurt to check them though. The fuse and relay are usually labelled 'PWR'. Apart from that, a multimeter is a useful tool which you can use to check if the switch is buggered or if the motor in the mechanism is. There is a possibility that the motor itself is stuffed.

I don't think it is a font you can download. That's just the Aurion logo which I would say was obtained from elsewhere. Mine has done that once before. It then continued to automatically put the volume up 2 steps every second. A reset of the unit fixed that. Problem never returned.

Depends on what you intend on doing with your car. For just your everyday street car, if you are getting no vibration in the brake pedal while slowing down to a stop, you can just change your brake pads to something with a bit more bite. Once your rotors are a little warped, etc and create a little vibration through the brake pedal when coming to a stop, then you can go ahead and change your rotors. Otherwise, if you have the money... do both.

Welcome mate. Glad to hear another satisfied Toyota owner to join us on the boards.

If you're not confident checking all those yourself, I would highly suggest to get someone else to look at them for you ASAP. Sure you could keep topping it up, but you aren't fixing the problem at all. It may eventually get so bad that it will do costly damage to your engine.

It should not take too long I don't think. I'd say to give it a month or two. As for tying it in with a GPS etc, I'm not too sure how long it will take that to progress. XM and Sirius is a little different. It is digital radio, but it is transmitted over satellite. The Australian digital radio will be transmitted over land direct to your receiver whereas in the States, XM and Sirius is transmitted from land -> satellite -> receiver. The difference here is that with digital radio, it is more localised and limited in range (ie. you won't be listening to a Brisbane station in Sydney), whereas with digital satellite radio, you could drive all the way across the country and still listen to the same station (and as a result, these stations are not as 'local').

I'm not 100% familiar with the Avalon, but as far as I'm aware, if you have a single button remote, you won't be able to get a 2 button remote to work without changing the remote central locking classification ECU. As well, you would need to add in an aftermarket boot release solenoid if you wanted that extra functionality. For the ease of it all, you'd be better off buying an aftermarket alarm which can not only give you a lock an unlock button, but a boot release button as well.

Oh dear G**. I can't believe that Euro is driving around the Brisbane/Gold Coast area.

Welcome lilbird. Are you from the Coast or did you just take your car there for some photos?

That is like a fashion faux pax, which can also apply to cars. Blue and green are not the best to go with each other unless done correctly. Ahh, one of the reasons I love Brisbane. Oooh. What did ya get? Or is it a secret?

Of course you need the key in the ignition to activate the ACC power. If you read the first post, he was stating that the Kluger will give a chime if you do so WHILE the door/s are open. You mentioned that you don't get it when the door/s are closed which is besides what the statement originally said.

I was joking. Did you not see the " " at the end of my statement? Besides, if I did put a ScanGauge inside my car as 'cosmetics that are useful', I would be mounting it with a BlendMount since it will truly be useful and safer to glance at while driving. Similar to this: Either that, or on top of the steering column.

Nice job there mate. Definitely a perfect place to mount it. If I got a scan gauge though, I don't think I would be able to get rid of my Aurion emblem that now resides there If I mounted that there though, one thing I would consider is taking the Scan Gauge itself apart and paining the casing the same colour as the silver trim. Ultimate blend FTW. I guessed it was you who bought the trim when it went up on eBay together with the other dash related pieces.

Highly likely it would be the drivers door actuator itself. When you lock/unlock with the remote with your ear up to the drivers door, do you hear any sound, like the actuator trying to push the lock. If so, it could be that it is jammed on something or it is not pushing the lock properly. Otherwise, it probably would be stuffed and a replacement needed. If you want to check it yourself, you can take the door trim off and if you find the wires for the actuator, you can try applying +12v to it to see if it does anything.

From the perspective of whether you suspension will be fine for the track..... YES it will be fine. If you're not aiming to be the best of the best, you won't really need to worry any more than that, especially if your car lives it's life as a road car. Of course you can get even better suspension setups, but how often are you going to track it, and are you aiming to beat particular records? Changing to slotted rotors will be a wise move, just make sure you have the brake pads to suit as well as using a good quality brake fluid. As for the oil, someone with a 2ZZ should answer that but personally I would be thinking that an oil of that viscosity on the 2ZZ is WAY too thick. Remember, some people out there take their cars to the track.... stock.

All I can see is this project ending in tears the way it is going. If you are after more power without changing cars, then change to a 3S-GTE as suggested. Don't go messing with boost after that I would say as well.

You can add a poll by doing a full edit on your first post. The settings are at the top. For my choice out of the given cars, as much as I'd love an Audi R8, I just can't go past the sharp lines of a Lamborghini. So that's Lamborghini Gallardo 560-4 hands down. Also, I don't think the M3 has any place within that selection.

Holy s***. That looks like you could use that to control a real car. That's some serious gear. Just for an idea, I looked at Amazon.com http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013B64O6/ref=as...mp;linkCode=asn USD$357.51

You do understand what Naturally Aspirated means right? A normal engine with no turbocharger or supercharger (ie. Forced Induction) is a Naturally Aspirated engine. With your engine as it is now then, it is already Naturally Aspirated. I'm guessing whoever you spoke was probably saying to reduce intake/exhaust restriction before going Forced Induction, but usually that is what you would do as part of that process anyways.

Well someone had to answer the question . I felt like taking to opportunity since I had the time to do so. Just remember Djs, if you have trouble putting it back in, roll the rubber piece up into a smaller cylinder (like rolling a newspaper) insert it to where you want it, then while it is in place, try to let it unroll.

I can tell you exactly where that came from. I've dealt with them before so I knew just where to look. It is an insert that goes inside a spring that prevents that 'twang' sound that you can get from the extension of them. The sound you can get is similar to that sound of a steel cable when knocked under tension (example is that sound effect in movies when a lift is free-falling). The spring where it would have come off is the one for the brake pedal. Here is a photo to show how it sits. It is on the side that attaches to the brake pedal:

What exactly were you extending. You need to be a little specific. Were you extending the power wires or the video wires? Either way, it doesn't matter about the colour of the wires. For the job you are doing, you can use a mix of bare copper (copper coloured), tin plated coper (silver coloured), or gold plated (gold coloured obviously), and that itself won't be the cause of your problem. Doesn't necessarily mean that it is okay. The indicator light for it can be fed off the relay power side of things. I would be looking at your connections there then and making sure it's not shorted out. Then check fuses as mentioned above. They could possibly look at it for you but they will charge because you were the one making modifications to it. They may possibly not attempt to fix it as well if you were to ask. If you can't do it yourself, you are better off getting an automotive electrics shop to help out.

Questions to start off. From what you said, your saying the camera does or does not work? It was phrased as such to say your camera DOES work, but am I correct in saying that you mean otherwise? What are your reversing sensors connected to for power anyways? Since you mentioned this started after extending your leads for the camera, I would look at everything that is related to that firstly. Look for any exposed sections of wire, or connections that could possibly short out. If you find there is the potential for a short, fix this. Then have a look at all your fuses and see if they are good. Most likely you will find one has blown. Replace this fuse after correcting any shorts and see if everything works fine. If the fuse blows again, then start investigating further. On a note to the above advice, it could also be possible something was shorted out during installation and is no longer there. If that is the case and you find nothing exposed as per first instruction, continue with the next step of checking fuses. Fuses I would be looking at primarily are: Engine bay - DOME (10A) Interior - GAUGE NO.1 (10A), GAUGE NO.2 (7.5A), TAIL (15A), PANEL (7.5A)

First things first, when you open your driver's door, does the door light illuminate on the dash? If not, it could possibly be the pin switch on the drives side door that is playing up.

Took me a good second to think about who that was. There was no mention of a Starlet in the previous list of cars there that Evan edited.