DJKOR

^ F*** me that is a neat setup. If only I had the money.

270W will certainly compliment your Rockford much better than 150W. That's pretty much double your power for under $100. Not bad at all.

Today I was finally bothered enough to wash and wax the TRD. I did a half-ar** job of it though, but considering the surface felt pretty sticky, something is better than nothing. It has been 3 months since I last waxed her... which if you know me, is ages. I wouldn't have bothered, but considering that it looks like wet weather is on it's way after all the dry days/months we have had, I figured I may as well prepare a little.

As parts like that typically live inside devices, getting them can be a bit tricky. You typically need to contact the manufacturer of the device. Does Denso build those units? If so, you can try your luck and see if they might be able to help, but I wouldn't imagine it being easy. Alternatively, those cables are known as 'Flixible Flat Cables' and if you can count the conductors (it looks like 14 to me, but you need to confirm that) and can measure the spacing, then you may be able to source it externally. They may not be the exact length, but you can probably work around that. Examples of such: http://www.ebay.com/itm/PRINTER-AWM-20798-Flexible-Flat-Cable-14Pin-L10in-W15mm-/230294102567

It's reliable enough to stop someone from simply 'hot-wiring' it. The alarm does not protect against glass breakage however so someone can easily smash a window and steal whatever they can within reach. The only time the alarm will set off is if you have locked your car and someone forcefully unlocks it and opens a door or the bonnet. Alarms only really stop honest people though. I have had to break into my old car a couple of times and people just walked by and watched as I proceeded to lift the bonnet and disable the alarm.

As far as I'm aware, the IPB software has the ability to add a chatroom. I can't play around with the forum back end though so I can't really see what ours is capable of. Steve has the ability to do that, so I guess we will need to run the idea by him.

We look at the votes each Sunday. Voting has been rather quiet lately.

Like VF-X has said, that can be true to a point, but it's much like buying anything which is mass produced. If you break it due to ewear and tear, you can't simply expect a free replacement due to your own cause. Sometimes people expect too much from others. Good on the OP for getting it fixed under warranty but if he didn't in the end, I wouldn't have been surprised. I personally think this falls into the category of Toyota doing it to get the customer off their back.

Have a read of Steve's post again. He is referring to having much larger brakes on the front without doing anything to the rear. These cars you are referring to like the EVO's etc, if you pay attention, you will notice that a larger front brake upgrade is complimented with a rear brake upgrade. Take the XR6 for example. A standard XR6 has 298mm rotors on the front and 303mm rotors on the rear. The XR6 Turbo on the other hand has 322mm rotors on the front and 328mm rotors on the rear. No point being able to stop on a dime in a straight line if it can't keep your car controlled when trying to brake in other scenarios.

Or attempt to push it like a shopping trolley.

Yeah... well I kinda have a Tarago engine in my car :P Wait, wut?

What is with Celica owners and wanting to only meet with your own kind. Not directing this at you Brad, but more of a general statement because there have been more than a few new Celica members with the same mentality. Our Brisbane meet is open to everyone. No need to separate yourselves from the rest of us.

Realistically, the front strut tower brace doesn't really improve the cornering abilities of your car. It does however improve the cornering feel of your car. It's like changing your running shoes. A new pair may feel more comfortable but it won't make you faster. You will however get a surprisingly large improvement by upgrading your rear sway bar so I'd highly recommend doing that. If the strut brace was enough to amaze you, you'll drop your jaw after upgrading the RSB.

Looks like it shall be Hoppy's tonight. I guess that works well seeing that the place will probably be empty.

You're windscreen may not have been replaced, but the issue may lie within what was found here. Maybe something to investigate as well? Rain sensor issue - How to save $70.00

Before performing any work on the car, it is common practise to disconnect the battery to prevent any issues, so I wouldn't be surprised there. For your "AUTO" issue, firstly hold the switch in the auto down position until the window reaches the bottom and hold it there for a few seconds. Then do the same for the auto up position. The control ECU should then learn where the limit is.

No performance differences. Obviously you weren't driving 'perfectly' if he beat you badly.

Wreckers or Toyota mate. Surely it can't cost too much. Plus it may be quicker than waiting for someone here.

The Mazda RX8's were like that. When you bought one, you could choose either a spacesaver or a repair kit if you wanted to reduce the weight of the car. I guess if you had RACQ or something like that, you may be able to justify taking the chance. By the way, the TRD isn't a real spacesaver. It is a standard Camry Sportivo 17x7 wheel painted yellow. Comes with a decent Dunlop 215/55R17 tire so it's completely safe to roll on.

And what legitimate injuries were sustained from this ceiling tile or whatever hitting your sister? I'm guessing none at all because you would have taken action if there were. People suing others just for the sake of it and and not to get compensation for something legitimate is just plain stupid. Your just digging your hole further and making it sound like you are just complaining because that's what you do. Personally, what they have said about the cup holder is nowhere near out of line. They have all the reason to blame you for the crack even if you really caused it or not. The asking price for it may be a lot, but not something unexpected either for a genuine part. Car manufacturers are like that... not just Toyota. If you can spare the 10 minutes, you'd have more luck with a tube of 5 minute epoxy. Otherwise like Steven suggested, a wrecker.

Jamiroquai - Virtual Insanity

I'm still keen. Preference is for later though... so in this case the 8th.

That is not the cause of the issue present here however. The issue will still be present when the car is at operating temperature. In fact, sometimes it is more of the lower idle revs that cause the 'in-gear' vibration to be it's worst.