DJKOR

Yes, that's all you really need to do, however if you notice what I mentioned in my post: So if you can avoid removing the rest of the trim, then go for it.

Oh dear.

Do your parkers turn on with no issues (as in the rear ones)? One thing you should check is the brake light switch which will be located on the brake pedal assembly. Make sure this is connected properly and is operating properly (ie. is not sticking).

It's funny how people all of a sudden get interest in the item for sale..... 1 year after the item was listed. Rolla & Sao Boy was last active a month ago, so if you need these tires... be prepared to wait a little until he is active again... that's if he still has them.

Well I have enabled the topic moderation. Basically what it does is it will unapproved all new topics made in the Buy and Sell: Main, and Buy and Sell: Non-automotive and is set to email just me at the moment advising me of this. Since I am around fairly often, I can typically verify new posts within the day. When a person makes a new topic, it advises them that the topic is submitted for approval. If I had it my way, I would modify the page that says that to tell them why it is submitted for approval so they will understand why. Unfortunately I cannot so the next best thing was to modify the header at the top to say that only members who comply with the rules will have their topics approved. That said, I know for a fact that people tend to skip over that, so I guess time will tell how effective this all is. One way or another though, moderation needs to be done, so it's still work either way. At least this now means we don't have to go through the whole "Please refer to the Buy and Sell Rules" talk again and again. Funny thing though. Within 12 hours of enabling the moderation of new topics, a fresh newbie tried to make a for sale thread.

I'm not liking it now after seeing those leaked Hybrid photos. It just doesn't look anything ground-breaking and it's just a mash up of other cars it seems. As well, I personally think they should just drop the Aurion line and make the Camry like it is in the States. The I4 and the V6 both with the same exterior. But that's just how I think it should be... I'm sure they have good reason for having it the way it is here. I just reckon the Aurion should be uniquely different, therefore if the Camry shown above comes here, it should come here as that.

85Nm (63ft/lb) if you want to follow the service manual.

I already sent you a PM so I will copy the contents here. Just a word of advice. If you don't get a response within a day, there is no need to then go and send a member like myself a PM asking the exact same thing. Please be patient.

I did consider this at one point in time (the same time that I enabled post moderation in the Group Buys forum which I removed shortly after) but eventually decided not to. The thing is, it will be like it was before when we only allowed TOC Supporters to post 'For Sale' threads. People started to then flood their 'For Sale' threads into every other forum. But I'm up for trying it out. I will enable new post moderation for the 'For Sale' threads and see how it goes.

Intermittent issues like this can be difficult to diagnose. Especially since yours can be corrected so easily. I would be inspecting the connections from the flasher relay going to the indicators. Otherwise, I would be suspecting the flasher relay is on it's way out (unfortunately only part of it, but it translates to the whole thing). Carbon eventually builds up on the contacts and reduces it's ability to switch power. Otherwise if you're like me, I'd pull the relay open and clean it's contacts. If none of this helps, then I wish you luck.

I'd imagine it would still fit (that's if the US kit works on the AUS model) because even though you may have different rotors on the facelift, you are changing the calliper as well and you'd think the mounting points would be the same. Cross drilled rotors would be more susceptible to cracking when exposed to track use, but it's not to say that you will definitely have that issue. Considering the size of the rotor for the car it would be used on, I think you would be relatively safe because they would provide plenty of stopping power before reaching their limits. But that's my own thinking, I'm no expert.

I think the OP would know what unlocking his car sounds like. He mentioned that it has not made the noise for a year so I'm pretty sure it's not related to that. Plus the beep is of a different type to the lock buzzer.

You need to be specific on which unit you have. We aren't mind readers.

Nice find. That would certainly give any ZRE some serious stopping power.

The front makes it look like a hybrid. The rear looks like a combination of the ZRE sedan and a Lexus.

I was going to suggest battery, but yours sounds different to the typical Toyotaloink stuff: Unknown beeping Worth checking though I guess.

We'll be there.

Well I bought it with 18,361km on it and that was when it was 2 years and 9 months old. Now with it on 100,124km on it and being 4 years and 1 month old, that means it covered 81,763km in 1 year and 3 months. I don't care so much for re-sale value.

Time for me to add some more to the list: - Rocking up to an intersection (without traffic lights) which you have seen from a distance to be quiet or is typically quiet most of the time, and then out of nowhere a bazillion cars turn up. - Cars that stop at an intersection leaving ages of space between themselves and the car in front of them and then spend the entire time they are waiting at the lights inching forward even when the light is clearly nowhere near changing. More annoying is when they are the car in front and end up a car length over the line before the light even changes. - Traffic lights that take forever to change when you are the only person at the intersection. - People that purposely try to prevent you from merging just because they are a c*** and a half. This only applies when you are not being one of those jerks that try to cut to the front of the queue. If you do that, you deserve to be blocked off. - People that tail you even when the lane next to them is empty. Even more annoying when you slow down to below the speed limit and they continue to tail you. Then they think they have the right to get all road rage at you when they overtake you because you have slowed down to make them do so.

Didn't do anything to mine really today. Just drove it a bit. Managed to get to this point though:

If the car is under warranty, I'll service it at the dealer. I know the dealer I choose is not going to break the bank and I help offset costs by providing my own fluids of preference. When I had the TRD serviced, it was under the $120 capped price service, so I could not turn down that offer. Once the warranty is up though, I do the work myself. Service as per the log book intervals with an oil and filter change midway between intervals (7,5000km in this case). If I need to do work that involves tools I don't have, then I get some help from a mate.

A few hundred dollars or so.

If you really think this method is so great, I'd like you to try that while doing a 1/4 mile pass and then do another one while leaving your foot down and letting the transmission do the shifting for you. Sometimes people tend to think that doing something differently to how it was designed will provide benefits. Just because it may feel like you are getting some extra response out of it doesn't necessarily translate to it actually benefiting you.

Try your luck by using the last however many digits of your VIN number. So if it's only a 3 digit code, then use those last 3 digits. That's the trick with the older Corolla's as someone recently posted on the forums, you might be lucky too.

Out of curiosity, are you guys entering the code as per my instruction or entering it on the page where you select your tickets? If the former, then I guess it can't be added anymore.