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trentmeyer23

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Everything posted by trentmeyer23

  1. trentmeyer23
    The relay is in the fuse/relay box in front of the left strut tower. You may need to conduct further diagnostics rather than just changing parts that you have not confirmed are faulty. If you do not do this, it may start costing you a lot of money very quickly. Have you confirmed power at the fuse?
  2. trentmeyer23
    Which lights aren't working?
  3. trentmeyer23
    Welcome.
  4. trentmeyer23
    It's not a recall, but you can do an out of warranty claim if the vehicle is less than 10 years old. It's a matter of when; not if, it is going to melt. All 40 series are effected or will be at some stage. Some worse than others.
  5. trentmeyer23
    It will probably end up embedded in the dash once it melts anyway. I wouldn't spend too much.
  6. trentmeyer23
  7. trentmeyer23
    DG-Spec Toyota C-HR R-Tuned 600hp at 23psi. Powered by a custom made Honeywell Garrett turbo kit.
  8. trentmeyer23
    Welcome.
  9. trentmeyer23
    Keep brake cleaner away from all rubber and paint.
  10. trentmeyer23
    Try harder. Google "SG-41T dash mat" and click the eBay link.
  11. trentmeyer23
    It used 3L on the way and you still flogged it?
  12. trentmeyer23
    If it's flooded, forget it! Stop putting other people's lives at risk, if you get stuck and they need to save you! The only "flaw" is sitting in the driver's seat!
  13. trentmeyer23
    Holts Dupli-Color Touch-Up Paint would be the cheapest option if you could get a match.
  14. trentmeyer23
    I'd be double checking all wiring.
  15. trentmeyer23
    Does it run well otherwise, or does it run like rubbish?
  16. trentmeyer23
    That dash looks like it is going by the shiny appearance.
  17. trentmeyer23
    Are you sure it hasn't started degrading? Is it oily at all?
  18. trentmeyer23
    Has there been any attention paid to the fuel fuel pump or fuel pump strainer?
  19. trentmeyer23
    The higher RPMs are probably due to the ECU recalibrating.
  20. trentmeyer23
    I could definitely be immobiliser related, given the cut to the power at the ignition switch. Disconnect the battery for a few minutes and then try again. See if you have the same issue/code.
  21. trentmeyer23
    A lot of Euros now run the sprial style pistons. Thankfully, you won't need that specifically for the Aurion.
  22. trentmeyer23
    Buy a large G-clamp from Bunnings or similar. You will then have a multi use tool rather than a spreader that you can only use for brakes. But yes, you will need some form of device to compress the piston.
  23. trentmeyer23
    If you read my post again, the information is all there. You do not need a code reader. This is an ignitor.
  24. trentmeyer23
    I had this exact problem(key turns and all) with a Celica. It was the ignitor not sending a feedback signal to the ECU. Grabbing one from a wreckers will save you some money, if it is the case. Have you done the diagnostic code check? Code 14 is the one I think it will be if it shows. You need a short piece of wire, strip both ends, open the diagnostic cover(possibly located near the strut tower or alternator, in the engine bay) and 'bridge' terminals TE1 and E1. Then turn on the ignition and watch the CEL(check engine light- on the dash), it will flash, if it is constant then you have no fault codes if not then count the flashes, there will be a pause and it will start again, keep counting. The idea is if the first sequence flashes once (for example) then write down one, then after the pause if it flashes four times then the code is 14.
  25. trentmeyer23
    Probably not. But it's hard to tell without pictures and some background.
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