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trentmeyer23

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Everything posted by trentmeyer23

  1. Negative earth. I don't know what he is smoking.
  2. I am going to assume this is the same issue that were planning on shimming previously. The auto and manual are interchangeable providing they are from the correct generation, SDV/SXV10. End-float is not a big concern; however, the lateral movement is a bit of an issue as it may cause the seal to fail prematurely. I'd only worry about rectifying if you find this is occurring regularly.
  3. Try the Toymods Facebook page. You probably won't have much luck here as there is mostly newer stuff. You could also try the OzCelica forums.
  4. Are you talking about wheel nut torque or brake caliper torque?
  5. I also stated such things as downhill mountain runs. My point is, running to the shops to get a loaf of bread or not really getting the brakes hot will probably not show any form of improved braking. I used a track day as an example of getting brakes hot and you have ran with that as the only scenario that has been given. I could not care less that DBA have said they are not designed for track use. The point is people have used them on track days without issue and have noticed improvements over stock rotors. Anyway, I will not be responding any further to this thread, unless for moderation purposes, in an effort to not clog it up with back and forth rhetoric.
  6. They can be used on the street. There are also plenty of street series rotors being used at track days, so no one is "lying". Other similar heavy braking scenarios could include downhill mountain runs. You are still barking up the wrong tree for the improvements you want, but it doesn't seem that you can accept this. Contact DBA and make your complaints known to them if you really believe that you have been lied to.
  7. Rotors are not going to give this to you. I didn't say that they were designed for track use, I said that the difference would be noticed then(or under similar conditions). Pulling up hard at a set of traffic lights on the way to the shops will feel pretty much the same. Pads and caliper upgrades will make a larger difference in bite feel.
  8. It's around 20Nm from memory. I will confirm when I return home.
  9. You should do it for the added weight of the bullbar alone.
  10. You need to do more research about brakes. Unless you are tracking these brakes/rotors, you will probably not notice any difference. The difference comes in heat dissipation after constant repeated braking efforts. We are starting to get the impression that you are complaining for the sake of complaining.
  11. This is common amongst all slotted rotors. Hand paint them if you are that concerned.
  12. I didn't mention Toyota. If it is working intermittently, then it could be failing or a connection issue. Either way it would be worth checking.
  13. The actuator has possibly failed. The only way is to find out for sure is to pull the door card off and diagnose it.
  14. Don't get them if you aren't planning on pushing it hard. They will wear quicker and they do actually have a performance advantage...just not to and from the shops.
  15. Well it depends on if/how much damage has been done. You may be able to bend it back or you may need to replace it.
  16. I assume it worked correctly before you touched it? They are very, very easy to bend, so that would be the first place I would check.
  17. They will fit under the factory Aurion 17's. Providing the wheels you have, have the same clearance, they will fit.
  18. Nothing to apologise about. The keyboard is poor at conveying emotion and well worded responses often come across as blunt without intention. That aside, I do take safety related componentry seriously. If you have no idea what you are doing/not confident in what you are doing and you mess it up, you could not only kill yourself but other road users as well.
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