Jump to content

trentmeyer23

Gold Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    5,797

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    188

 Content Type 

Everything posted by trentmeyer23

  1. trentmeyer23
    Always apply an anti-seize compound prior to installation.
  2. trentmeyer23
    Yes.
  3. trentmeyer23
    Bingo.
  4. trentmeyer23
    RDA are acceptable. DBA are generally better rotors.
  5. trentmeyer23
    Has the ignition system been checked?
  6. trentmeyer23
    Stock offset is also +45 not +35.
  7. trentmeyer23
    Another replacement auto will still be your most simple option.
  8. trentmeyer23
    Are they exactly the same size? The shock isn't bottoming out is it?
  9. trentmeyer23
    You've got your work cut out for you. Seriously, buy a manual one, but not for the reasons you may expect. If you buy a full car, you will get everything and much cheaper. Strip it and flip the rest for scrap. Sell parts to make some coin as well. You will also need shift cables, shifter assembly, shifter cover, instrument cluster(swap your odometer out), gearbox mount(I think it's different), flywheel, clutch master and slave cylinder and the ECU/engine wiring harness. Plus a bunch of small bits and pieces. You will probably need to drill a hole in the firewall for the clutch master as well. It's a pretty big job.
  10. trentmeyer23
    Pretty sure it's 1.1mm.
  11. trentmeyer23
    Yes.
  12. trentmeyer23
    You can go and be banned like you are in every other forum you join.
  13. trentmeyer23
    Photobucket has destroyed this thread...
  14. trentmeyer23
    Yes, you will need to look under the plastic cover for them.
  15. trentmeyer23
    Has the car been in an accident? This bonnet issue usuallly occurs when the latch supports have been bent. Some bending of the supports can rectify this. With regards to the screws, they are called scrivets. They are a 2 piece design, so the outside needs to be held while the screw head is turned anticlockwise. These are often stripped due to people over tightening them. The other pin style clips require the centre to be pushed in with a small screwdriver until you hear a click, then lifted out. They can be reset with the pin pushed back out for reinstallation.
  16. trentmeyer23
    Do you ever plan on driving the car?
  17. trentmeyer23
    Closed. Keep all of your wheel related posts in the one thread. There is no need for 3 threads about the same wheels/topic.
  18. trentmeyer23
    Welcome.
  19. trentmeyer23
    Do you have the park brake hardware? That is the biggest pain once the bracket is sorted. Provided the Gen 5 I worked on had the stock lines then no you won't. Post a pic. I hate the idea of it because you will never get all of the air out of it, regardless of what other people have told you. Pulling it off every time will get really old really quickly.
  20. trentmeyer23
    ???
  21. trentmeyer23
    Have a look at the vacuum switching/idle up valve. It may be leaking through the diaphragm. It will look something like this.
  22. trentmeyer23
    The wheel swap is simple, but the electrical side won't be.
  23. trentmeyer23
    Welcome.
  24. trentmeyer23
    Welcome
  25. trentmeyer23
    Rears won't work as is. Front will work. The factory hose needs to be kicked sideways slightly or it will develope a leak. Buy the correct left caliper. Booster is fine.
×
×
  • Create New...

Forums

News

Membership