General Toyota & Other Car Discussions
General discussions that are Toyota or car related.
General off topic chat must remain in the Club Lounge area.
3,183 topics in this forum
-
- 9 replies
- 1.2k views
-
- 39 replies
- 4.5k views
-
- 40 replies
- 3.6k views
-
- 33 replies
- 6.5k views
-
- 1 reply
- 1.3k views
-
- 7 replies
- 1.4k views
-
- 3 replies
- 3.9k views
-
- 17 replies
- 2.7k views
-
- 14 replies
- 1.9k views
-
- 10 replies
- 1.3k views
-
-
- 15 replies
- 1.2k views
-
- 7 replies
- 1.5k views
-
- 7 replies
- 1.1k views
-
- 2 replies
- 1.1k views
-
- 8 replies
- 1.3k views
-
- 10 replies
- 1.5k views
-
- 2 replies
- 789 views
-
- 0 replies
- 709 views
-
- 20 replies
- 1.9k views
-
- 6 replies
- 1.4k views
-
- 7 replies
- 1.1k views
-
- 15 replies
- 1.9k views
-
- 9 replies
- 1k views
-
- 22 replies
- 3.9k views
-
- 4 replies
- 1k views
-
Posts
-
It's possible that it could be something fouling or dirt build up, dry, or a broken mechanism, so have a look and give the mechanism some lubrication, most likely though, it'll be the actuator. I found one for a good price on Ebay, $25 delivered: Front Door Lock Actuator Right Side For Toyota Camry 1997-2001 | eBay -
Hi, I'm looking at a set of front rotors for an ACV40 2006, 2.4L Camry. I got a good price on some RDA's at Sparesbox. However both RDA8112 and RDA7686 show as for my car and I'm wondering what the difference is and if there were changes to the rotors during the model production. So does anyone know which rotor is the correct one? Many thanks in advance.
-
It's a simple solution though? Already laying down 60k for a RAV4, so what's another 1k on a phone to make everything work seamlessly? 👍 -
Your solution is akin to suggesting that switching to a different car manufacturer would resolve the issue. However, not everyone shares the same enthusiasm for using an iPhone as you do. -
that engine will be fine, the rods are the main thing to be concerned about. The 2860 is a decent turbo for the 1zz but in this day and age I'd go for a G25-550. The injectors might be on the small side, we run DW1000's. You need a full length injector, the shorter injectors with adaptors like ID1050x dont fit the 1zz head. You don't need an aftermarket intake manifold, if you do go down that path, avoid the CNC innovations unit, it's garbage. Do the boost control with a MAC valve and control it with the aftermarket ECU of your choice, I use Link stuff on most of my builds with the G4x Storm as the minimum. I also wire a fuel pressure sensor and oil pressure sensor to the ECU in my installs. Use a decent intercooler, the better cores (ARE, PWR, Garrett, Vibrant, Plazmaman, Hypertune) work a lot better than the chinese stuff like Aeroflow. a 450x250-300 fits fairly well with custom end tanks to route the cooler pipes through next to the radiator Don't forget about the clutch and gearbox. These days I like the Uniclutch twinplate, Above 300whp you'll want to think about upgrading the 3rd and 4th gears in the box also with the SSC (Hollinger) gear set and install an LSD of your choice. If you're going to give it a hard time, you'll also want an oil cooler. I like the HKS thermostat type sandwich plates and setrab or mocal oil coolers with -10 speedflow fittings/lines (Chinese AN fittings neck down to a lot smaller internal diameter in their bends, not great for flow) You'll also want to think about brakes, Celica or Sportivo front calipers will bolt on with sportivo discs as a starting point. To have somewhere like Tunehouse do the work you'll want to budget somewhere between 20-40K
-
-
Topics
-
-
