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Posted

Another silly question,

what is more accurate, a hub dyno or wheel dyno?

Evo

Posted
Another silly question,

what is more accurate, a hub dyno or wheel dyno?

Depends on what you are measuring. If you are after what figures you put down on the road, then the lesser of two evils would be the wheel dyno. The hub dyno, like a Dynapack dyno or the likes, do not have the mass/inertia of the wheels to use in the measurement. They may use some figure to compensate for that, but realistically it is not as accurate as a direct measurement. A wheel dyno on the other hand will measure the power directly as it is put down at the wheels.

However if you are just monitoring differences or changes to your car, then either dyno will do. Preferably the wheel dyno would be better in my opinion since when running on it, you car pretty much will behave like it will when on the road.

Posted
Another silly question,

what is more accurate, a hub dyno or wheel dyno?

Depends on what you are measuring. If you are after what figures you put down on the road, then the lesser of two evils would be the wheel dyno. The hub dyno, like a Dynapack dyno or the likes, do not have the mass/inertia of the wheels to use in the measurement. They may use some figure to compensate for that, but realistically it is not as accurate as a direct measurement. A wheel dyno on the other hand will measure the power directly as it is put down at the wheels.

However if you are just monitoring differences or changes to your car, then either dyno will do. Preferably the wheel dyno would be better in my opinion since when running on it, you car pretty much will behave like it will when on the road.

Hub dynos take out the problem of tying the car down/wheel-spin though, which is handy...

Posted

So what would be best?

I am gonna have to source a wheel dyno in bris otherwise

Evo


Posted

Evo the question has already been answered...move on :P It depends what you want to measure will determine what is best because I don't think you will pay the same price for both dynos ;)

Anyways I got a more important dumb question for you guys! :-D Lol

How hard is it to swap headers on the stivos? I rang an exhaust shop and he said it takes a couple of hours... I was not expecting that long :-l

Also is it hard to DIY?

Posted

Time for my stupid question. So yesterday I changed my rotors to the slotted type. Now I can understand that these rotors may possibly make 'some' noise when braking, but how about when you're foot is off the brakes?

When driving down the highway next to a concrete barrier and my windows are down, I can hear this sound which is kind of hard to explain. It's kind of like the sound you get when blowing into the blades of a desk fan, just quieter.

Would the rotors be the most likely cause for this? I would have though that with my foot off the brakes, the pads would not be touching enough to create noise like that.

Or could this more likely be caused by the fact that I removed that debris shield that was covering the back of the rotor, and now it sounds different with the air flow around it?

Posted
Evo the question has already been answered...move on :P It depends what you want to measure will determine what is best because I don't think you will pay the same price for both dynos ;)

Anyways I got a more important dumb question for you guys! :-D Lol

How hard is it to swap headers on the stivos? I rang an exhaust shop and he said it takes a couple of hours... I was not expecting that long :-l

Also is it hard to DIY?

hey guru :) can be a bit of a job as have to release engine mount to get into remove them etc....i think where we all got it done it was around 50$ or so to do the swap over i think....

Posted

Cheers Simon. :) Yeah I rang Dominique :-D Hopefully will put the ported one next Saturday. ;)

Posted

Hey Guys, just wondering what is the best way to change the parkers in the headlight to T10 LEDs? I mean i had a quick look and it looks pretty tight up top to get my hands in :-l is there any particular way of doing it easily? :-l

Posted

having Asian Ninja fingers helps :P :lol:

Evo

Posted

I do not have lady fingers like you Guan....SORRY! :P :P :P :P Jkkkkk Mate ;)

Posted

28ibxir.jpg2mfdvs9.jpg

Do you think it is the same car?I thought they maybe different,but a young fella at work swears (on his mothers grave.. pfff) it's the same car a few months later... :unsure:

Sorry these are the only pics he sent me.

Posted
28ibxir.jpg2mfdvs9.jpg

Do you think it is the same car?I thought they maybe different,but a young fella at work swears (on his mothers grave.. pfff) it's the same car a few months later... :unsure:

Sorry these are the only pics he sent me.

I doubt it. Why change the strut brace? Why change even the radiator cap? New Battery?

Posted

And why change the stickers in the engine bay and the oil cap. I'm assuming the top photo is the before, but why change the oil hose from braided stainless to the ****ty rubber blue hose with the metal coil in it?

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Here is a stupid one.

I want to do a shock treatment of fuel doctor on my car. When/how do I put it in the tank?

I know I need to put it in when its around 1/4 tank left but do I put it in at home then drive to the petrol station? Will it go in easy or do I have to get something to hold the flap down?

Posted
I want to do a shock treatment of fuel doctor on my car. When/how do I put it in the tank?

I know I need to put it in when its around 1/4 tank left but do I put it in at home then drive to the petrol station? Will it go in easy or do I have to get something to hold the flap down?

I use Fuel Doctor all the time mate. Not bad that stuff.

When you add the stuff to the tank, whether it be the shock treatment or the 25mL maintenance treatments, you just do so at the bowser.

I'm not sure about you, but on my Aurion there is no metal flap. Even if there was though, the long neck of the bottle lets you stick it into the filler neck so if there was a flap there, it would push it down.

Emptying a whole bottle of Fuel Doctor through the measuring side can take a good minute to squeeze it through.

... and make sure you get another bottle and do the 25mL per fill-up.

Posted (edited)
I want to do a shock treatment of fuel doctor on my car. When/how do I put it in the tank?

I know I need to put it in when its around 1/4 tank left but do I put it in at home then drive to the petrol station? Will it go in easy or do I have to get something to hold the flap down?

I use Fuel Doctor all the time mate. Not bad that stuff.

When you add the stuff to the tank, whether it be the shock treatment or the 25mL maintenance treatments, you just do so at the bowser.

I'm not sure about you, but on my Aurion there is no metal flap. Even if there was though, the long neck of the bottle lets you stick it into the filler neck so if there was a flap there, it would push it down.

Emptying a whole bottle of Fuel Doctor through the measuring side can take a good minute to squeeze it through.

... and make sure you get another bottle and do the 25mL per fill-up.

Cheers!

You're right, Aurions don't have the flap. I must be still having bad memories of my last car.

I got 2 bottles of the stuff.

Thanks for that DJ.

Edited by Hidden Taco
Posted

Stupid question, but I've always been curious as to what age it becomes 'improper' to take a car to a dealership for repairs rather than a garage?

Posted
Stupid question, but I've always been curious as to what age it becomes 'improper' to take a car to a dealership for repairs rather than a garage?

I don't think there is ever an improper age to take your car to the dealership. It's just like a workshop that's speciality is Toyota. I'm sure that there are people out there who would take it to the appropriate dealership for the entire life of the car.

It's just that they charge so much for service when compared to other garages or DIY alternatives, which is why one would most likely steer clear of them when they can. I'm only taking mine to Toyota until the warranty is up, then it's DIY for me.

-------

Now my stupid question time. I've noticed, mainly at slow speeds because things are quieter and smoother, but sometimes when I need to slow to a stop while travelling along a curve in the road whilst travelling initially at something like 30-40km/h, I can feel my brake pedal 'tap' a couple of times and if I listen carefully enough, I can hear the ABS actuator making that tapping noise at the same time. When this has happened, I know that I am applying way less force than that is required to lock up the wheels and traction is still strong as well.

I've concluded that this is probably the EBD (Electronic Brake force Distribution) doing it's job. Would I be correct in saying that? Or because of the tapping action, would it more likely be said to be VSC (Vehicle Stability Control) working to keep everything rolling at the right rate before any slip occurs.

... Or is this a sign for other potential problems?

Posted

as soon as the warranty runs out, i would think

i work at a dealership and we ***** people hardcore with pricing and labour

Posted

Stupid Question time:

Is it wrong for me to think that my car has possibly gained a few extra kw's? Cause the whole car feels alot more torquier...? It might just be the placebo effect?

What do others think?

Evo

Posted
Stupid Question time:

Is it wrong for me to think that my car has possibly gained a few extra kw's? Cause the whole car feels alot more torquier...? It might just be the placebo effect?

What do others think?

Evo

I would say more placebo effect than anything. For you to really feel a gain, you need a fairly decent increase in power or torque. A few kilowatts is not something you can properly gauge by feel.

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