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The STUPID thread


theDefiant1

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How much more power will my ZR put out if i get a TRD sticker on the back? And im thinking of changing the stock pedals to sporty steel ones, will that make my clutching that much faster?

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Now my stupid question. I have a clicking sound that is dependent on speed. It sounds exactly like a stone in my tire, but I have looked all over and found no stones or nails. I once had this issue in the past where a twig was jammed in the brake calliper assembly and was clicking against the balancing weights on my rim, but not in this case. I've had a good look over and couldn't find anything getting in the way.

Has anyone else had symptoms like this before and is there anything simple but not obvious to look for?

Just an update on this issue that was driving me nuts. Because I have been travelling, I haven't had time to check this out. Now that I'm back, I've been searching everywhere to try and find what the issue is. I can definitely say that it was coming from the front drivers side, so that's where I narrowed my search to. I was getting it while going straight and my CV boots were looking good so I was hoping that this wasn't the issue. It also only occurred at above 90km/h which made the search a little interesting. So today I removed all the centre caps... no luck. Then I thought while I was at it and it was about the right time, I would rotate the tires from front to back. I checked the tires as well and they had absolutely nothing stuck in them.

I went for a drive and noticed that the clicking moved from the front to the rear of the car. After previously checking the rim for anything that stood out, I remembered that the only thing on there was a small balancing weight that hangs from the side (example shown below). Hoping this was the issue, I stopped over at Bridgestone up the road and they quickly removed the weight for me.

... Problem is now solved.

dsc03534.th.jpg

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question, how do we remove the snorkel on a 1ZZ?

can we remove it without removing the airbox or is it all one piece??

Evo

you can remove it without removing the airbox

it might be abit easier to take out the airbox first though, the snorkel sorta clicks into the bottom

also, if you remove the snorkel, but dont want to get a sri or cai, you could make the hole for it bigger and hook up one of those flexible plastic pipes so you get a cold air feed

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question, how do we remove the snorkel on a 1ZZ?

can we remove it without removing the airbox or is it all one piece??

Evo

you can remove it without removing the airbox

it might be abit easier to take out the airbox first though, the snorkel sorta clicks into the bottom

also, if you remove the snorkel, but dont want to get a sri or cai, you could make the hole for it bigger and hook up one of those flexible plastic pipes so you get a cold air feed

Thanks Jay,

so how do i remove it, and what difference will it make if i remove the snorkel bit?

Evo

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from memory, i think its only held in by a few of those plugs, and then theres the big plastic container bit which is kinda tucked behind the fender, thats held on a bolt which u can reach if u turn the wheel out and stick your hand in there

i think its easier to remove if you take off your front bumper

if you remove your snorkel, you'll get a louder induction sound, performance wise, i dont think you will get much, if any

i think if you run a pipe from the box to the fog light cover, you should feel a little more torque, but youll have to clarify this with jeremy, since hes the only one i can remember thats done this

i know all of that sounds abit confusing, but hope it helps

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from memory, i think its only held in by a few of those plugs, and then theres the big plastic container bit which is kinda tucked behind the fender, thats held on a bolt which u can reach if u turn the wheel out and stick your hand in there

i think its easier to remove if you take off your front bumper

if you remove your snorkel, you'll get a louder induction sound, performance wise, i dont think you will get much, if any

i think if you run a pipe from the box to the fog light cover, you should feel a little more torque, but youll have to clarify this with jeremy, since hes the only one i can remember thats done this

i know all of that sounds abit confusing, but hope it helps

Hey man, i went and pulled the snorkel out just before during my lunch, it sounds crazy now :o

one thing though, i think the MAF was adjusting cause for a short time idling, the Rev's were fluctuating. But its all good now :D

If you have some time, maybe 15-20mins, i strongly suggest that this is the best mod i have done so far, its very rewarding hearing it scream similar sounding to a stivo :o just doesn't rev as high... now i just need to find a tunnel lol :lol:

Also, i found a white plastic net thing in the airbox, i was not sure if i need that, so i took it out as well, what does it do?

Thanks Jay, appreciate it B)

Evo

Edited by Evo7
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The white box can be taken out, you will need to remove your front bumper to make it easy to get it out.

What it does, no idea

It'll be a resonator for the intake. Like how you can make a note by blowing across the top of an empty bottle, the resonator makes a note when the air in the intake blows across the neck. The bottle size is tuned so that this note is the same as the resonant sound of the intake, and being 180 degrees out of phase it cancels out the sound. Removing it will make the intake noiser, but won't improve flow to any measurable degree (there's no through-flow, and it doesn't really disrupt flow either)

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Did you have a loose counterweight?

At least you got the problem fixed lol :P

Evo

A loose counterweight??

Djkor your clicking noise will go away when you remove the crankshaft from your rim

hahahahahahahahahahahahahaha

Evo it is called a wheel weight LOL

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Did you have a loose counterweight?

At least you got the problem fixed lol :P

Evo

A loose counterweight??

Djkor your clicking noise will go away when you remove the crankshaft from your rim

hahahahahahahahahahahahahaha

Evo it is called a wheel weight LOL

Thanks SB,

im still learning every day lol :P

Evo

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EVO, all cars do this, your ecu is relearning.

it took 2-3 days for my cai, its taken 3 weeks for my car to settle with the new exhaust.

finally the fuel consumption has sorted itself out. it may also have something to do with me not ringing the hell out of it into lift every 5 metres...

whitestivo

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Absolutely stupid as you meant.

I am wondering why are you here.

I think this post answers the question we've all been asking. Almost certainly a spambot, not a real person

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Absolutely stupid as you meant.

I am wondering why are you here.

I think this post answers the question we've all been asking. Almost certainly a spambot, not a real person

hiro stop stalking the spambot <_<

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Absolutely stupid as you meant.

I am wondering why are you here.

I think this post answers the question we've all been asking. Almost certainly a spambot, not a real person

hiro stop stalking the spambot <_<

But it gives me purpose.....

Plus, I hate spambots with a passion.

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Strut brace is chassis reinforcement.

Antiroll bar (sway bar if people must <_<) are to reduce body roll during cornering. I see them more as a way to adjust under/oversteer.

They can be used together or by themselves.

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What's the difference between the purpose of rear strut and rear sway bar (beyond rigidity v.s body roll)? Do ppl tend to run both or one of the two? :)

i think you've kind answered your own question there

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this mayba a stupid qestion,, (so i hope i got the right thread)

but what engine dose the 2002 celica ZZT230 have?? is it a 2zz??

as you can probly tell i know next to nothing about celica's..

cheers guys

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