Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted
the only way to equal them up is add length to the rear pipe and somehow bend it around to meet up with the collector, not sure it will go any better than the mod shown. maybe someone will try the longer pipe and compare.

I've spoken with an exhaust shop or two. It is possible to maintain the length using an appropriate bend and then merging it neatly. The bend shouldn't cause any restrictions so they say. I never inquired about the advantages etc though which was stupid of me. Like I said, I will wait for the dyno results and if the improvement does not seem significant (relatively since it is a dyno test after all), I will choose the equal length option.

either way as long as its all the same diameter all the way not like the restrictive setup they have now.wouldn't it be interesting if there was room for a full twin system !

started a bun fight now eh ?

Posted (edited)
Car is booked in for a dyno run Wednesday morning. I will video the run and post the results wednesday evening. The video may take me a few days to post.

looking forward to the results. I know you said the drone has gone but is there a better quality sound with this mod or louder ?

Edited by scootastaxisx6
Posted
Car is booked in for a dyno run Wednesday morning. I will video the run and post the results wednesday evening. The video may take me a few days to post.

looking forward to the results. I know you said the drone has gone but is there a better quality sound with this mod or louder ?

With the cat back system it was just loud, now you can hear a lot more of what the engine is doing. It's a similar sound to what I got when I installed a big cam in my previous car, kind of a choppy, lopey sound. You'll be able to hear it on the dyno run video once it's done.

Posted (edited)
Car is booked in for a dyno run Wednesday morning. I will video the run and post the results wednesday evening. The video may take me a few days to post.

looking forward to the results. I know you said the drone has gone but is there a better quality sound with this mod or louder ?

With the cat back system it was just loud, now you can hear a lot more of what the engine is doing. It's a similar sound to what I got when I installed a big cam in my previous car, kind of a choppy, lopey sound. You'll be able to hear it on the dyno run video once it's done.

thanks will be watching out for it. did you keep the original 3rd cat in place ? cant tell from photos.

Edited by scootastaxisx6

Posted (edited)

Well, I had the car Dyno'd today, would have liked to have reached around 220hp atw but only managed 212.7. I guess it would be close to 220kw at the engine. The weather was warm here in Perth today and I just got the car back from Toyota yesterday after having the Trans ECU replaced so maybe with a little more time for the computer to adjust and a little cooler weather I may have gotten a little closer. Again, I wish I had the car dyno'd prior to the mods to work out the exact gains as all dynos are different. Overall I am happy and don't regret spending the money as just the sound improvement was enough to satisfy me. Had a chance to give it some stick on some open roads today on the way to work and was pretty happy.

Here's the printout:

The red line was the first run, we repositioned the dyno cooling fan on the second run to direct more air toward the engine air intake which made a significant difference (the blue line)

Edited by mkay
Posted

did a search and found marc2020 got around 144kw at the wheels on a stocker, you're 14kw better at 158kw! so when you say about an extra 20kw at the engine I'd say you were pretty spot on.

Very impressive, obviously the aurion responds well to free-flowing exhaust. I'd love to know what it can run down the 1/4 (the best way to test a mod)

Posted

ATW HP will be very close to flywheel kW due to drivetrain loses.

1HP equals approx 0.75kW and you can expect loses to be between 20-25%.

Posted

Interesting result. You are pretty much level with the result that Darius achieved of

. Though he got his result by removing the third cat and resonator, then adding a pair of Varex mufflers. Now you need to run down the drags to really prove the power. Dyno figures are good for getting an idea, but now you have a challenge.

I'm considering doing this to mine, but I'm waiting for a response from a guy in the States to see how he modified his. He has gotten a 13.8s run down the 1/4 mile in Texas weather, so I am curious about this.

ATW HP will be very close to flywheel kW due to drivetrain loses.

This statement I agree with more.

Posted
ATW HP will be very close to flywheel kW due to drivetrain loses.

1HP equals approx 0.75kW and you can expect loses to be between 20-25%.

Standard Aurions are around 192hp at the wheels but 200Kw at the engine, so there is probably slightly less loss through the drive trains due to them being front wheel drive.

Posted
ATW HP will be very close to flywheel kW due to drivetrain loses.

1HP equals approx 0.75kW and you can expect loses to be between 20-25%.

Standard Aurions are around 192hp at the wheels but 200Kw at the engine, so there is probably slightly less loss through the drive trains due to them being front wheel drive.

You'd be surprised at how much loss there is despite it being a FWD. If a stock Aurion was 192hp, that is 143 kW at the wheels. That's more along what SupaTouring was saying.

Anyways, you now have one thing left.... and that is the 1/4 mile. This will show if changing the power/torque curve has made things better or worse. Maximum power is all well and good, but it all depends where it is.

Posted
ATW HP will be very close to flywheel kW due to drivetrain loses.

1HP equals approx 0.75kW and you can expect loses to be between 20-25%.

Standard Aurions are around 192hp at the wheels but 200Kw at the engine, so there is probably slightly less loss through the drive trains due to them being front wheel drive.

You'd be surprised at how much loss there is despite it being a FWD. If a stock Aurion was 192hp, that is 143 kW at the wheels. That's more along what SupaTouring was saying.

Anyways, you now have one thing left.... and that is the 1/4 mile. This will show if changing the power/torque curve has made things better or worse. Maximum power is all well and good, but it all depends where it is.

I was a little confused to see the rpm curve on that dyno run sheet. It seems the peak powers just shy of 4000rpm. Surely thatsnot right?

Posted (edited)
ATW HP will be very close to flywheel kW due to drivetrain loses.

1HP equals approx 0.75kW and you can expect loses to be between 20-25%.

Standard Aurions are around 192hp at the wheels but 200Kw at the engine, so there is probably slightly less loss through the drive trains due to them being front wheel drive.

You'd be surprised at how much loss there is despite it being a FWD. If a stock Aurion was 192hp, that is 143 kW at the wheels. That's more along what SupaTouring was saying.

Anyways, you now have one thing left.... and that is the 1/4 mile. This will show if changing the power/torque curve has made things better or worse. Maximum power is all well and good, but it all depends where it is.

I was a little confused to see the rpm curve on that dyno run sheet. It seems the peak powers just shy of 4000rpm. Surely thatsnot right?

He did not have any rpm sensors hooked up, I am not sure why. I guess he figured it was not necessary as we just wanted to test the power. You can see the peak power was developed just before the rev limiter cuts in, which I think was around 6300-6500rpm.

Edited by mkay
Posted
ATW HP will be very close to flywheel kW due to drivetrain loses.

1HP equals approx 0.75kW and you can expect loses to be between 20-25%.

Standard Aurions are around 192hp at the wheels but 200Kw at the engine, so there is probably slightly less loss through the drive trains due to them being front wheel drive.

You'd be surprised at how much loss there is despite it being a FWD. If a stock Aurion was 192hp, that is 143 kW at the wheels. That's more along what SupaTouring was saying.

Anyways, you now have one thing left.... and that is the 1/4 mile. This will show if changing the power/torque curve has made things better or worse. Maximum power is all well and good, but it all depends where it is.

K&N also quoted 192hp at the wheels during their testing of the standard Aurion. All dyno's give different reading, that's why I should have got a before and after test. I might take my car to another dyno and pull 220 and then another and get 210. As, you said the 1/4 mile would be a good test but I simply do not have the time as I work two jobs and have a family. I am happy with the results and proved the Y-pipe is do-able. I'll try and get some videos up over the next few days.

Posted

thats a pretty good result man.. if i were you, i'd be happy with the outcome... :)

sorry if i missed it, but what was the cost of it?

i'm sure a few people out here would be interested in buying one if the exhaust shop made a few... :)

either way, congrats on being the first one (that we know of) in oz to successfully do this mod... a lot of people have wanted to do it, but no one has stepped up... :D

Posted
thats a pretty good result man.. if i were you, i'd be happy with the outcome... :)

sorry if i missed it, but what was the cost of it?

i'm sure a few people out here would be interested in buying one if the exhaust shop made a few... :)

either way, congrats on being the first one (that we know of) in oz to successfully do this mod... a lot of people have wanted to do it, but no one has stepped up... :D

I think the ballpark figure we gave Daryl was $300.

Posted
I think the ballpark figure we gave Daryl was $300.

Just a note, that figure was a little bigger than that, but was including other stuff like mufflers/resonators/pipework.

Posted
Tail Pipes:

post-5511-1259962614_thumb.jpg

Ok!! I am loving this picture! So clean and classy.

Man!!! Why did you have to post this? I can afford to mod right now.

Posted
ATW HP will be very close to flywheel kW due to drivetrain loses.

1HP equals approx 0.75kW and you can expect loses to be between 20-25%.

Standard Aurions are around 192hp at the wheels but 200Kw at the engine, so there is probably slightly less loss through the drive trains due to them being front wheel drive.

You'd be surprised at how much loss there is despite it being a FWD. If a stock Aurion was 192hp, that is 143 kW at the wheels. That's more along what SupaTouring was saying.

Anyways, you now have one thing left.... and that is the 1/4 mile. This will show if changing the power/torque curve has made things better or worse. Maximum power is all well and good, but it all depends where it is.

K&N also quoted 192hp at the wheels during their testing of the standard Aurion. All dyno's give different reading, that's why I should have got a before and after test. I might take my car to another dyno and pull 220 and then another and get 210. As, you said the 1/4 mile would be a good test but I simply do not have the time as I work two jobs and have a family. I am happy with the results and proved the Y-pipe is do-able. I'll try and get some videos up over the next few days.

well done mkay if its something that gives it a better sound without loosing power or torque, im in.

Posted
ATW HP will be very close to flywheel kW due to drivetrain loses.

1HP equals approx 0.75kW and you can expect loses to be between 20-25%.

Standard Aurions are around 192hp at the wheels but 200Kw at the engine, so there is probably slightly less loss through the drive trains due to them being front wheel drive.

You'd be surprised at how much loss there is despite it being a FWD. If a stock Aurion was 192hp, that is 143 kW at the wheels. That's more along what SupaTouring was saying.

Anyways, you now have one thing left.... and that is the 1/4 mile. This will show if changing the power/torque curve has made things better or worse. Maximum power is all well and good, but it all depends where it is.

K&N also quoted 192hp at the wheels during their testing of the standard Aurion. All dyno's give different reading, that's why I should have got a before and after test. I might take my car to another dyno and pull 220 and then another and get 210. As, you said the 1/4 mile would be a good test but I simply do not have the time as I work two jobs and have a family. I am happy with the results and proved the Y-pipe is do-able. I'll try and get some videos up over the next few days.

well done mkay if its something that gives it a better sound without loosing power or torque, im in.

I think with all the fiddeling with my SRI ( it seems to be a daily thing ) Im going to get the K&N SRI
Posted

WA is represented ! I'm impressed and jealous and i think im going to be a copycat! Nice work Mkay

Posted

where is the best place to get K&N short ram ? saw it in "autoanything" for $292. is there a better price or better site to look at ?

Posted
where is the best place to get K&N short ram ? saw it in "autoanything" for $292. is there a better price or better site to look at ?

You can find them on eBay for around USD$250 plus around USD$80 for shipping. If you can get shipping cheaper than USD$40 from Autoanything, than that would be a good price.

Posted
where is the best place to get K&N short ram ? saw it in "autoanything" for $292. is there a better price or better site to look at ?

You can find them on eBay for around USD$250 plus around USD$80 for shipping. If you can get shipping cheaper than USD$40 from Autoanything, than that would be a good price.

add says free shipping, doesn't say if price in aud or usd,might look around.

Posted
where is the best place to get K&N short ram ? saw it in "autoanything" for $292. is there a better price or better site to look at ?

You can find them on eBay for around USD$250 plus around USD$80 for shipping. If you can get shipping cheaper than USD$40 from Autoanything, than that would be a good price.

add says free shipping, doesn't say if price in aud or usd,might look around.

I got mine for $380 Australian delivered on e-bay. $100 of that was for shipping but I recieved it from the states in less than one week. You just have to compare totals as some plces sell cheaper but charge more for shipping.

I haven't forgoten about posting the videos and will try and do so next week when I get some time off work.

Posted
where is the best place to get K&N short ram ? saw it in "autoanything" for $292. is there a better price or better site to look at ?

You can find them on eBay for around USD$250 plus around USD$80 for shipping. If you can get shipping cheaper than USD$40 from Autoanything, than that would be a good price.

add says free shipping, doesn't say if price in aud or usd,might look around.

I got mine for $380 Australian delivered on e-bay. $100 of that was for shipping but I recieved it from the states in less than one week. You just have to compare totals as some plces sell cheaper but charge more for shipping.

I haven't forgoten about posting the videos and will try and do so next week when I get some time off work.

I will check into this price, cant afford it till the new year and Ill get the y pipe done too.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now




  • Join The Club

    Join the Toyota Owners Club and be part of the Community. It's FREE!

  • Latest Postings

    1. 0

      2017 Diesel d4d toyata hiace limp mode

    2. 1

      Tyre Sale Specials

    3. 0

      overheated engine

    4. 1

      1996 Trueno XZ - Is it worth modding?

    5. 62

      VSC, Traction Control, Check Engine lights all on

    6. 1

      1996 Trueno XZ - Is it worth modding?

    7. 1

      Query about the correct rotors for 2006 ACV40 Camry.

    8. 1

      Tyre Sale Specials

    9. 10

      Android auto

    10. 0

      E160 Corolla fielder suspension

×
×
  • Create New...

Forums


News


Membership