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Posted (edited)

When I accelerate from red lights or speed up I usually try my best to keep no higher then 2500rpm. Though I noticed the Aurion doesn't like to go fast on low rev's and you get the decent power out of it from anything above 3000rpm. (Not much low end torque)

I've been reading that an ECU can get lazy (this is unconfirmed from other forums like Honda etc). I think it could be me from trying to take it easy on car that my transmission changes become lazy. I know for a fact that if I accelerate hard, that my transmission changes are blisteringly fast, its just bam bam bam, you cannot even tell the car is changing gear.

If I were to up it to about 3000rpm to 3500rpm is that okay?

I'm eager to know what other people here hit in there Aurions and what theyre driving style is. To be honest, petrol is not a factor for me(well kind of but not THAT much) so I don't mind if I were to accelerate more then what I do now. It's just that I feel terrible for the car, it feels like if I baby it that I'm treating it well and its happy with me, and that if I gun it a bit that the car starts to become unhappy with me for treating it rough :lol:

Also, since I take a bit longer to get to the speed limit, my dad actually told me to "stop taking off from lights so slow" and to "lead foot" it a bit and reach the speed limit quicker instead of taking your sweet damn time. :lol:

So it made me wonder, if I were to take it easy to the lights am I wasting more petrol OR if I take it harder then usual and reach the speed limit quicker and start cruising sooner is this saving fuel?

Still so much to learn about this car. I've only had it for 6 months. I remember my old camry, it took me 3 years to learn how to treat her and how she likes to be treated, what petrol it likes, what oil it likes etc. So I'm still way way away from mastering my car.

Edited by unique
Posted

yesh the engine is lazy below 3500 rpm but i love the response when you stab the loud accelerator and you hear the loud roar and real speed to match...

i tend to accelerate to 60k as quick as possible depending on traffc, coz i hate ppl who takes their sweet time rolling off from the lights lol... :P

Posted

The ECU has profiles to adjust to your driving style such as gear changing and pedal level power.

The true power starts to kick in after 3000rpm. It will use a bit more fuel but it's fun. The only problem is the person in front of you is too slow so i barely get to rev to 3000rpm <_<

Posted

Since I have started to drive fairly casually these days (no reason in particular :ph34r:... nah, just due to work and all) I thought I would see what my low shift points are in my TRD. It's not really a good comparison since the TRD has a little more torque from down low, and I seriously don't remember going light on the throttle in the Sportivo. All I remember in my Sportivo is that most standing starts that I would accelerate from, I would go to at least 4000RPM in first. I'd even reach redline quite a bit in first. All I remember is that for most low'ish speed roads, I'd already be up to the limit before it changed to 2nd.

I do remember though that it wasn't difficult to keep it under 3500RPM from a standing start when in 'D' so I don't think the Aurion is that sluggish down low.

Anyways, on my TRD, accelerating from a light to the road speed limit of 80km/h, my change points are:

1st -> 2nd = 2300RPM

2nd -> 3rd = 2700RPM

3rd -> 4th = 2600RPM

4th -> 5th = 2400RPM

5th -> 6th = 2100RPM

The last two changes require backing off the accelerator for it to shift decently, otherwise it holds 4th for a bit while it thinks.


Posted

We all know relationships are build through sweet and bitter times. :lol:

I once sprinted my Aurion, coz I was so ****** with a P plater who cut in my lane 3 times without signalling. Put it in S mode, Gear 1, then I hit it more than 4k/5k rpm.. :ph34r: . After then, this smell of rubber burnt and other chemicals thingy came out. Then I promised her I wouldn't push her as hard as last time.. :( :( But few months ago, a taxi kept beeping me for going too slow, I went around 40s in a 50 zone yea I know, damn Taxis <_< <_< . He asked for a race then I pushed her again but in D mode. :( :(.

Both scenarios, I was pleased with the sweet victory but bitter with her condition. I know really well what the Aurion is capable of, but since those days, I never pushed her more than 3.5k rpm. Even with 3k-3.5k rpm range, it feels like you're trying to race the others on red lights.. I usually stay around 2-3k rpm. It's more than enough for me.

Posted

After then, this smell of rubber burnt and other chemicals thingy came out.

That's why you should push it to red line or close pretty often, if car driven slow and soft, all mechanical things in it become lazy and vulnerable.

Posted

I don't think I have ever red lined in a car. But yeah, thats what I hate, after rough driving and you park the car you can smell everything cooking and it just makes you cringe and makes you want to reverse all the actions you took.

How do a do a ECU reset on the Aurion? I wanna try this out.

Posted (edited)

I don't think I have ever red lined in a car. But yeah, thats what I hate, after rough driving and you park the car you can smell everything cooking and it just makes you cringe and makes you want to reverse all the actions you took.

How do a do a ECU reset on the Aurion? I wanna try this out.

Just disconnect the battery for 10 mins. :whistling:

A word of warning. The stock profile is the most powerful one so watch the foot.

Edited by Hamster
Posted

I don't think I have ever red lined in a car. But yeah, thats what I hate, after rough driving and you park the car you can smell everything cooking and it just makes you cringe and makes you want to reverse all the actions you took.

How do a do a ECU reset on the Aurion? I wanna try this out.

pffftt.... if you drive it hard enough, often enough, then the smell doesnt appear anymore...

or so i've been told... :ph34r:

:lol:

Posted (edited)

I don't think I have ever red lined in a car. But yeah, thats what I hate, after rough driving and you park the car you can smell everything cooking and it just makes you cringe and makes you want to reverse all the actions you took.

How do a do a ECU reset on the Aurion? I wanna try this out.

Just disconnect the battery for 10 mins. :whistling:

A word of warning. The stock profile is the most powerful one so watch the foot.

Are you sure that's it? I remember there were few other procedures to do when turning the car back on or something? Seriously I wish I could search this because I remember this was discussed for the Aurion but the new search comes up with pathetic results, with completely non relevant stuff from what I searched.

would this also work on the aurion? http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=2020

Edited by unique
Posted

I don't think I have ever red lined in a car. But yeah, thats what I hate, after rough driving and you park the car you can smell everything cooking and it just makes you cringe and makes you want to reverse all the actions you took.

How do a do a ECU reset on the Aurion? I wanna try this out.

pffftt.... if you drive it hard enough, often enough, then the smell doesnt appear anymore...

or so i've been told... :ph34r:

:lol:

hahaha, if I were to do this in my old camry, all I would get is the smell of oil burning like crazy because that car had about 3 leaks and most of it was dripping on the exhaust.

Posted

Remember the U660E gearbox is a fairly advanced transmission as is its computer systems and of course having AI means the gearbox programs itself around you and what you usually want from it and the car so if you drive quite slow and smooth and don’t rev it then the power train will go into a "nanny state" and short shift and skip ratio's to give you the best and smoothest possible drive. But if you randomly stab the accelerator the transmission computer and main ECU have to wake up again which can take a few spirited shoves of the loud pedal lol and this is the doughy bottom end response your feeling. But it doesn’t take too long to wake it up and once they have the gearbox is gold and pretty switched on always given you the right ratio at the right time especially in S mode and they engine feels like it found some power you never knew it had.

i two used to drive around like a grandpa because i liked to think i was be nice and treating my car well but as of late I’ve been letting it rev out to 3000-3500rpm and the car seems to feel better for it, nice and alert and get to hear the exhaust note even more:p and fuel economy seems to be the same if not slightly even better :S go figure!

Posted

Last night I done a ECU reset. I left the negative out for two hours and went through the whole procedure on the link I showed.

After driving, the first thing that happened in second gear is that the car flared like crazy on second gear. It was weird, its like it lost all power like I accidentally put it into neutral while cruising but pressing the accelerator and back into drive, but it only done it once and never again. To be honest, I cannot notice any difference what so ever in gear changes. It feels exactly the same even after I reset the ECU.

Some people here said that the car drove differently but seriously everything was the same except that really horrible flare.

I went for like a 10 minute drive to waste fuel and to get the ECU used to my driving style. I was driving pretty hard and hitting 3500 almost every chance I got.

Is there an easy way to record my taco without having to hold my phone? It's too hard to hold the phone and try to drive at the same time.

Posted (edited)

Last night I done a ECU reset. I left the negative out for two hours and went through the whole procedure on the link I showed.

After driving, the first thing that happened in second gear is that the car flared like crazy on second gear. It was weird, its like it lost all power like I accidentally put it into neutral while cruising but pressing the accelerator and back into drive, but it only done it once and never again. To be honest, I cannot notice any difference what so ever in gear changes. It feels exactly the same even after I reset the ECU.

Some people here said that the car drove differently but seriously everything was the same except that really horrible flare.

I went for like a 10 minute drive to waste fuel and to get the ECU used to my driving style. I was driving pretty hard and hitting 3500 almost every chance I got.

Is there an easy way to record my taco without having to hold my phone? It's too hard to hold the phone and try to drive at the same time.

Just use blu tac and stick your phone on the dash between the speedo and steering wheel.

If you rev your car up to the red section a few times your ECU will recognise this and may set the profile to near max. This means the gears change at a high rpm.

Edited by Hamster
Posted

Last night I done a ECU reset. I left the negative out for two hours and went through the whole procedure on the link I showed.

After driving, the first thing that happened in second gear is that the car flared like crazy on second gear. It was weird, its like it lost all power like I accidentally put it into neutral while cruising but pressing the accelerator and back into drive, but it only done it once and never again. To be honest, I cannot notice any difference what so ever in gear changes. It feels exactly the same even after I reset the ECU.

Some people here said that the car drove differently but seriously everything was the same except that really horrible flare.

I went for like a 10 minute drive to waste fuel and to get the ECU used to my driving style. I was driving pretty hard and hitting 3500 almost every chance I got.

Is there an easy way to record my taco without having to hold my phone? It's too hard to hold the phone and try to drive at the same time.

Just use blu tac and stick your phone on the dash between the speedo and steering wheel.

If you rev your car up to the red section a few times your ECU will recognise this and may set the profile to near max. This means the gears change at a high rpm.

Thanks mate, I thought about this myself and thought I was crazy thinking blu taccing it :lol:

Posted

Last night I done a ECU reset. I left the negative out for two hours and went through the whole procedure on the link I showed.

After driving, the first thing that happened in second gear is that the car flared like crazy on second gear. It was weird, its like it lost all power like I accidentally put it into neutral while cruising but pressing the accelerator and back into drive, but it only done it once and never again. To be honest, I cannot notice any difference what so ever in gear changes. It feels exactly the same even after I reset the ECU.

Some people here said that the car drove differently but seriously everything was the same except that really horrible flare.

I went for like a 10 minute drive to waste fuel and to get the ECU used to my driving style. I was driving pretty hard and hitting 3500 almost every chance I got.

Is there an easy way to record my taco without having to hold my phone? It's too hard to hold the phone and try to drive at the same time.

Just use blu tac and stick your phone on the dash between the speedo and steering wheel.

If you rev your car up to the red section a few times your ECU will recognise this and may set the profile to near max. This means the gears change at a high rpm.

Thanks mate, I thought about this myself and thought I was crazy thinking blu taccing it :lol:

As stated about the auto ecu's , they are adaptive. if mum and dad drive like grand pa's and then son takes it for a burn i bet mum and dad notice a difference in the auto characteristics .

Unique . does your auto flare only when cold and is it around 50-60 kph going from 3rd to 4th ???.

if so and its under warranty there is a revised auto ecu available (re-flashed software). These autos are very hi tech. when an ecu is replaced there is a large number of compensation codes that are entered into the new ecu , these codes are written on the auto case from factory. if the auto is flaring the toyota it2 can be connected and a snap shot can be taken to see the issue.

i tried all sorts to alleviate my flaring issues from added extra 200ml WS auto oil to even asking for a new auto and this ecu fixed it up 95%

when i replaced my ecu and was a guinea pig for the tech guys i was told that the ecu may take weeks to respond and a couple of thousand klms , so 10 min's is not enough

Posted

The thing to remember is that whatever Toyota has done to these ECU's, they learn fairly rapidly. This is more likely due to the emissions compliance etc. You can thrash it all you want to try and get it to respond better, but if you are equally going to drive it sedately, it's only just going to adjust.

If you want to avoid all that AI stuff, putting it into 'S' seems to do the trick. Even leaving it on S and 6 will work. It's not conclusively tested, but it seems to run a little differently.

pffftt.... if you drive it hard enough, often enough, then the smell doesnt appear anymore...

or so i've been told... :ph34r:

:lol:

+1. Though there are two smells that never really go away. Brake pad and tire. But these two you learn to recognise.

If you rev your car up to the red section a few times your ECU will recognise this and may set the profile to near max. This means the gears change at a high rpm.

This is true, but it won't remain like that for too long.

Posted

This is why its better to have a third pedal :P Pity they dont come with one though :( Perfect gear selection every time haha. And I thought it was bad to always nanny the car.

Posted

Last night I done a ECU reset. I left the negative out for two hours and went through the whole procedure on the link I showed.

After driving, the first thing that happened in second gear is that the car flared like crazy on second gear. It was weird, its like it lost all power like I accidentally put it into neutral while cruising but pressing the accelerator and back into drive, but it only done it once and never again. To be honest, I cannot notice any difference what so ever in gear changes. It feels exactly the same even after I reset the ECU.

Some people here said that the car drove differently but seriously everything was the same except that really horrible flare.

I went for like a 10 minute drive to waste fuel and to get the ECU used to my driving style. I was driving pretty hard and hitting 3500 almost every chance I got.

Is there an easy way to record my taco without having to hold my phone? It's too hard to hold the phone and try to drive at the same time.

Just use blu tac and stick your phone on the dash between the speedo and steering wheel.

If you rev your car up to the red section a few times your ECU will recognise this and may set the profile to near max. This means the gears change at a high rpm.

Thanks mate, I thought about this myself and thought I was crazy thinking blu taccing it :lol:

As stated about the auto ecu's , they are adaptive. if mum and dad drive like grand pa's and then son takes it for a burn i bet mum and dad notice a difference in the auto characteristics .

Unique . does your auto flare only when cold and is it around 50-60 kph going from 3rd to 4th ???.

if so and its under warranty there is a revised auto ecu available (re-flashed software). These autos are very hi tech. when an ecu is replaced there is a large number of compensation codes that are entered into the new ecu , these codes are written on the auto case from factory. if the auto is flaring the toyota it2 can be connected and a snap shot can be taken to see the issue.

i tried all sorts to alleviate my flaring issues from added extra 200ml WS auto oil to even asking for a new auto and this ecu fixed it up 95%

when i replaced my ecu and was a guinea pig for the tech guys i was told that the ecu may take weeks to respond and a couple of thousand klms , so 10 min's is not enough

Nah, this was my first real flare and the car was at FULL operating temp because I just had done an ECU reset and after the ECU reset it says to let the car idle for at least 10 minutes which I did and the car reached full operating temperature in the 10 minutes I left it idling.

The flare (I'm not sure if it even was a flare), I started driving and when I started reaching about 55Km/h the car did not change gear.

Imagine that your cruising at 60KM/h and you put the car in neutral, you accelerate but go nowhere and the car just rev's "free fall" then all of a sudden my gear engaged and the car changed gears. Very weird.

Also, what I experience when the car changes gears is very sluggish. It feels like there is a lazy midget in the transmission that is too lazy to change gears and when he does he does a sloppy change. :lol:

When the car changes gears like this it actually makes you feel tired because its irritating and you put concentration into feeling and listening to the the gear changes.

Posted

The thing to remember is that whatever Toyota has done to these ECU's, they learn fairly rapidly. This is more likely due to the emissions compliance etc. You can thrash it all you want to try and get it to respond better, but if you are equally going to drive it sedately, it's only just going to adjust.

If you want to avoid all that AI stuff, putting it into 'S' seems to do the trick. Even leaving it on S and 6 will work. It's not conclusively tested, but it seems to run a little differently.

pffftt.... if you drive it hard enough, often enough, then the smell doesnt appear anymore...

or so i've been told... :ph34r:

:lol:

+1. Though there are two smells that never really go away. Brake pad and tire. But these two you learn to recognise.

If you rev your car up to the red section a few times your ECU will recognise this and may set the profile to near max. This means the gears change at a high rpm.

This is true, but it won't remain like that for too long.

Seriously, I think the past owner of this car did not thrash my car at all. Even at 60K when I drive it hard sometimes, I park the car in my garage and I put my nose to the front and I can still smell fresh plastic/engine smell. It makes me happy each time, its the best smell ever. Yeah I know thats weird, my ex used to hate that I spent so much time on my old camry. I would stare at the car more then her, LOL jkz :P

Posted

When I accelerate from red lights or speed up I usually try my best to keep no higher then 2500rpm. Though I noticed the Aurion doesn't like to go fast on low rev's and you get the decent power out of it from anything above 3000rpm. (Not much low end torque)

I've been reading that an ECU can get lazy (this is unconfirmed from other forums like Honda etc). I think it could be me from trying to take it easy on car that my transmission changes become lazy. I know for a fact that if I accelerate hard, that my transmission changes are blisteringly fast, its just bam bam bam, you cannot even tell the car is changing gear.

If I were to up it to about 3000rpm to 3500rpm is that okay?

Hello Unique,

Have you considered driving with the car in '3' and not in 'D' or Drive? Not sure how the Aurion drivetrain is setup inside but leaving the car in '3' around town can help pep up the low end torque a bit. In some cars, people shift from 2-3 (back and forth) depending on how fast they go. Not sure if some of the Aurion crowd does this.

Outside of this, a little on the extreme side here but you could purchase a wheel/tire combo that is significantly lighter than the stock setup. When I say 'significant', I mean a wheel/tire combo that is at least 5lbs lighter.

Just a couple of things I could think of.

Posted

aurion's dont have a "3"... its either "D" or "S"... if its in "S", then we can do what daryl is suggesting and leave it in "6" and it supposedly has a better response...

i cant comment on this, cause i havent tried it...

only real way to test would be to do a few back to back tests at the 1/4 and see the 0-100km/h speeds in "D" and in "S"...

Posted

Well I booked in the car for monday morning. but this time a different dealer. I don't really like the one I usually send it to.

I asked if they ever reflashed an aurion and he said they only have done one! So I guess this is a wide spread problem. one is still one too many considering all the other reports of flaring online.

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