dutchie101

Heya Guys and Gals. Just wondering if its possible to override the auto leveling on the units motor so i can have manual adjustment? ie like the traditional dial adjusters. As im frequently raising or lowering the ZRe, my cut off if up, down and all over the place. Last fiddle with teh sus has it a tad to high for my liking (and probably those in front of me). Can i override the auto leveling unit and have manual control for this? The other option is to install an adjustable length arm on the level sensor... but obviously that cant be changed on the fly. Maybe i could over ride the level sensor instead? that may prove better actually. Any ideas peoples? Thanks in advance...

Saw a black Thai VIP grilled Aurion dumped on very nice black centered machined lip 19's with neat exhaust this morning. Dam man, that looked fly!

Quick bash at it for you.. just rough so you get the idea. and Hope that helps..

Thanks guys, to answer a few questions: Cant say i have noticed more wobble when cold, but i will take note and let you know. Not credit cad gap, but close. I didnt have any wobble issue before the pad swap...i did have slight torque steer but this seemed to worsen with the pad swap. i still think something else is going on here.. Oh you have adjustable camber tops tho dont you? and you would have had them cranked over to fit those wheels in? thats would affect the SR and reduce the torque steer,so thats why you probably didnt get such bad TS. like i said above, ive had 3 or 4 alignments, but there was no alignment done the day of the wobbles starting, just pads, brace and rear lowering. Will check today but doubt it. I would bloody hope so. I bedded them in myself. Did it the correct way. till hot and stinky. This is when i noticed the increase in torque steer initially. Again Pedders did this, and yes, im sure they bled the line. The wobble isnt upon braking, its actually happening with acceleration.

Ps, also, the increase in torque steer in FF with larger rims is due to the shift of the scrub radius point. Generally when the car is initial designed with the correct OEM size wheels, the geometry of the weight coming down on the car is centred in the moddle of the wheel. As we increase the offset, this shifts the point of contact and the decreased offset acts almost like a lever, initiating more torque steer. Although torque steer was always lightly increased with the addition of the Works, something changed. If you install adjustable camber tops, dial in top camber, then use camber pins lower down to dial out that added camber, you can in effect, change the SR. Also, the caster of the OEM setup will cause left pulling torque steer from the factory. Im looking for some offset caster bushes to dial this out 2 degrees out... Let you know what i find. See here Here and here

Cuong, see my wheel wobble thread in Sus forum.

EEEEEeeeeeeeekkkk! 1,200 squids is outta by league, just . Would rather mold and lay up my own CF and a few more to pay for it.. The modellista one is just stuck on?? Whaaaaa?

Just noticed the Carbon Modellista spoiler on that white one too! OOoh now thats some cash to splash

Hey'all, Ok heres the deal. Lowered the ZRE with pedders coilovers. All seemed good enough. The went back in for check up, 7mm more rear drop and install endless pads and rear C-one chassis brace. The problem. After this i noticed considerable left pull torque steer. Major issue is passenger front wheel wobble from around 20-35 or 40kpm, it goes away after around 50kpm. Far more severe when passenger present. Went back told Pedders the deal. They said the changed nothing except the pads, installed the rear bar and dropped the rear 7mm. I suggested sticky caliper. They dont think so. They re aligned it, I wasnt happy, tried another alignment, no go again. Checked that everything was tightened. They then say the front drive shaft angle may be too far out as it has been lowered so much. I think it may be the case, so we raise the front 10mm to see. No different. Im not sure if they actually took the calipers off to check the wear. I cant see how within 4 or 5 hours and putting pads in this can happen. Eventually get a good alignment im happy with the feel. Well hursed pedders guy (15 years on the job and seems pretty cluey) thinks the wobble is gone. It isnt. Every passenger i have in the car can feel it the wobble is far worse with passengers. Driving by myself it is still there but ever so slight. PS, im very very sensitive to my car, as the Pedders guys found out. So could the drive shaft/joint be screwed already with only 14,000k on the clock? Could it be something else? WTF?!!

So thats what mine would have looked like with the burnt titanium tip! mmmmmm... i think my DTM decision was justified with the luxury look im after. I love that mica/pearl white tho, sexy! and that Modellista rear skirt and exhaust panel :P TRC is back in the HOoooussssse, Heckspoiler on the way for me

Heya HT, I think some of the 07-08 guys have had left drive shaft and steering shaft replaced under warranty. Apart from that i dont think there is much else to worry about. John would know the full deal.

Yeah i know that was the case,its just a colour example for people that ask. Its pretty obvious that the output levels are the same in the pics, thats why i stated that outputs drop the higher Kelvin you go... For "real" shots see below: Garax 4300K _____________________________________________________________________ Garax 6000k Garax 8000K _____________________________________________________________________ Garax 10,000k Color Temperature.......4300K.......6000K........8000K.......10000K.......12000K Brightness/Lumens.......3200 lm.....3000 lm......2500 lm.....2300 lm......1800 lm Hope that helps

On the Hood damper note, takashi.com.au has some for the ZRE, i havent fitted mine yet so hopefully they fit ok. Ill try to fit them once the weather is better. Cost was AU$110 expressed overnight. Build quality seems quite good.

Coool, these were also available with the smoked ones from Japan. Different manufacturer maybe B)

Yesss, i was shown this the other day by one of the Funkoars members. Dam funny. I swear the guy dropped the best lines for the remix! Almost on beat too!! :D

OK i know a reasonable amount about cars but not much to sweet FA about oils, i just havent bothered to learn to much in this department. Im a pretty spirited driver of my ZRe and have been thinking i should be running something a bit "better" in mine than the OEM oil. As we are soon coming into summer, whats my best option? Ps, does everyone else have a bit of a light rattle on startup until she warms up?

Welcome :) nice looking ride, and a tad more reliable than the rotor no? B)

From what i understand ( I think Chicken posted the exact details here somewhere) any aftermarket HID is illegal unless factory fitted. All HIDs must have auto leveling function and lens washers. 8,000k will have a blue tint yes. from 6,500k onwards you will notice light bluing to more blue/purple. Also above 6,500k light output drops off quite a bit:

Whats the upgrade to KevO?

C-one Carbon bonnet (non facelift) = Approximately 4.5kg (pure OEM weight: approximately 10.5kg) B)

Just measure it and see how far it comes along the length of the car. Might be a little short, could always email them and see if they can make it longer. They also have this one: Here Its longer, dual stripe. But its pretty easy for a signy or pinny to make one of these up.

Havent installed them yet, due to the crazy rains and wind we have had here... Ill take some shots when they are installed. The instructions specifically say not for aftermarket hoods, ie fiberglass or carbon. I think because they must be quite strongly pressured as the apparently lift the bonnet by themselves once the latch is popped.

Just found these on ebay: Toyota Sport decal

Great choice of rims, looks sweet.

Ni-Doc is a seriously forgiving medium, its soo easy to work with. Dont be scared! Any print shop or sign writer would apply it in 10 min for you.