DJKOR

Those look to be the smoked ones. Very good choice.

The idea of having a cat on only one bank and then the main cat after the merge doesn't really sit well with me. Personally, if you were to remove the cat from one bank, you may as well remove the other and get an O2 sensor simulator. Just all personal opinion really.

^ Fark that is reckless. Those drivers should not be anywhere near a public road. My vent is about what I have already mentioned earlier about people who don't move out of the right lane. More of an expansion on that topic. I just don't get what is with those people that stick in the right lane regardless. Really gets up my nerves even more when its the far right lane of a multilane highway. Like there could be a completely empty left lane, and when you approach them when they are in the right lane, they just don't move over. What's puzzles me even more is when you tail them for a bit and they realise so they move over into the (empty) left lane, then once you have overtaken them, they move back into the right lane. WTF.

I dunno why mine are wearing relatively quick.... I'd be extremely surprised if I got 30-40k out of my RE001's. Maybe it's a combination of my driving style plus the fact they are spun with a V6 FWD.

Well.... I think you should be asking what the performance is like and not worry about that If you take it easy, they can last (remember not to go hard on them for the first thousand k's or two)... but if you can't resist temptation, they like to disappear rather quick.

Looking schmick mate. I quite like those wheels. Lucky you mentioned you ordered coils otherwise there would be quite a lot of discussion about that I reckon. id you get the smoked lights or just the standard?

Well if you go to Bob Jane now, you can get the 195/55R15 RE001's for $142 each. I guess as well, with the 1.27% smaller diameter, you will get a fraction of extra torque at the wheels, compared to the 1.95% larger diameter of the 195/60R15.

I think the point here is not to replace with a non-genuine aftermarket unit... rather to keep with the factory unit. I'm sure Matt could easily just sell an aftermarket unit if he wishes. Not to mention, a fair few of the OEM style aftermarket units have pretty crap iPod integration compared to the SoundLinQ or Toyota genuine unit... or generic double DIN.

I think the signature above me is outdated.

Both callipers and rotors are PBR. Akebono rotors and callipers are used on the American Gen 6 Camry. Pad reference numbers are Bendix codes (and can usually be translated from that): DB1474 for the fronts and DB1475 for the rears.

That certainly would be an option. As far as I'm aware, it's only the facelift Altise and Sportivo that has a head unit that is not USB/iPod compatible, with the exception of the Grande that has the Satnav unit and cannot have iPod/USB connectivity. All other grades (except for the Grande) have the unit that is iPod compatible (unit shown in attached image). The price of this unit as an accessory for the Altise/Sportivo would probably be around the $1000 mark I would imagine (haven't enquired about it myself). So if that were the case, a customer would be offered the iPod interface for $400-500 or the different head unit for double that. For some people, they see the $400 option as the cheapest but don't quite realise it may not be the most cost efficient. But also as well, this is mainly when ordering your car. If that were the case and they wanted the accessory unit on the Altise or Sportivo, they would then lose their steering wheel bluetooth controls as part of the package. This will then incur more costs if they want then, so then it starts getting to the point where the iPod interface looks like a better option. Either way though, as an aftermarket upgrade, both will do the job, but it comes down to what they want to spend. And Matt, as for your original question, an FM transmitter would do the trick but it probably wouldn't really be wise. Firstly the quality is not all the greatest (depending on how good your ears are) and secondly, you can't control the iPod through the head unit as you can with the interface kit.

Unless you get all the required parts out of a wrecked Camry, the costs involved to change from manual to auto climate control is not going to be worth it. If you were to buy the parts from Toyota, you would be looking at around $2000 at the least, and that's being on the optimistic side. The reason for this is the manual air conditioning has cables to control all the air mix and vent positions. The auto air conditioning has this replaced by motors. As well, even something as simple as the blower motor is different between the two. With the manual air conditioner, the blower motor controls it's speed via a resistor pack and the automatic climate control on the other hand uses a digital controller. As a result of all this, you would have to change nearly every component in your current air conditioning system to those that the auto climate control uses. It's one of those situations where it is just best to put up with what you've got. If you are truly are serious about spending such money on this procedure, I can provide part numbers for all the major components that you would need. But that said, if you are really serious about doing this, then you would have to be insane.

I found everything in my HID install plugged directly into the factory harness without any issues and worked fine, so was fairly simple however I did remove the front bumper and headlights in order to give myself more room and make it easier to mount the ballasts. That's only if you don't run it through an addition relay though, as some people suggest you do. However when I studied the cars wiring diagram the headlights already run directly off a relay and the wiring looks to be of a sufficient guage that I can't imagine the HIDs causing any more stress on the system than the original factory bulbs do. Although some people have a different idea behind using relays (DJKOR I believe uses a relay so he can flash his high beams without activating the low beam HIDs - not good for them) I've got HID low beams and high beams so it's not really an issue for me. Yep. That's absolutely correct. The wiring in these cars is more than sufficient to handle the slightly higher surge current that the HID ballasts require. It's only for a brief second or two anyway. So for most of the part, the kit is basically plug and play. Kind of the same as replacing the halogen bulbs, just requires a ballast to be put in-between. Mounting it is the only 'difficult' part of the install, which is not hard to do. And that's correct as well. My relay setup was so that I can flash my high beams while the parkers/low beams are off and only the high beams will flash and the HID's remain off.

Not the same thing mate. Matt is referring to an iPod connectivity unit. I personally haven't seen it myself, but I would imagine it would be the same as the SoundLinQ iPod interface.

Not really a fan of that. The front lip seems too big, the rear spoiler is too sharp (as well as being a bit big), and the rear skirt looks too much like an afterthought instead of blending in smoothly.

Well if a bad batch of fuel was the case, putting in some good quality fuel (depending on how much existing fuel is in the tank first) can help fix it. It's not a simple yes or no whether it will fix the issue because the cause has not yet been determined.

Silicone will be a real pain in the rear-end to remove should you either get it wrong after it dries or if you need to remove the MAF (in which you will need to when using an oiled filter). You would need to be creative in trying to work this one out.

The method that is shown here (not having a go at your method scootastaxisx6, backyard mechanics FTW) is not really the way to go about it because when it comes to MAF placement, having them in the right spot is fairly critical for them to read the correct flow of air. Basically, just check to see that your MAF isn't sitting at any odd angles and is facing the same way as shown in the above photos. Also, if you have placed it close to any bends, this can be affecting the flow of air that the the MAF can pick up. Not having it sealed properly can cause it to have difficulty reading as well. I would seal that up while you are at it.

To extend on that.... clockwise when viewed from the "accessory side" (ie. all the pulleys etc).

8.5 inch width should be fine. You may even be able to manage 9 inches wide. It all comes down to how much lower you car is really. Offset is one key thing you need to ensure stays close to +45mm as well. In addition, these were my previous words:

Thanks Jeff. Always makes me feel good to know that others have remembered what I have given an answer to or do a search. Just shows that it always helps to search. This was also one of those threads with a clear title that you can't miss. On topic though, my cup holder lid had been jamming up fairly often before and I have now found a solution for it. When I get the chance to do so, I will post it in the other thread since that was what was started. It came down to one little piece of spring metal.

Buy a bottle of injector cleaner and run that through with your next tank of fuel. Once that tank has been used, see if the situation improves. If so, it quite possibly was dirty injectors. If that doesn't fix it, next time you cold start it, add a bit of throttle (just a little bit) and see if that starts easier. It's less likely to be this, but cleaning your throttle body won't do any harm. Did the issue only occur recently... or has it been like this since you purchased it? If recently, then it is possible you had a bad batch of fuel. In that case, still put in a bottle of injector cleaner next time you fill up.

Another big thread revival... that's the second from your Kenshin X. That said, it's good to see the original and the best Rolla's on this board. For a moment there, I was pretty puzzled. I didn't pay attention to the date at first and thought something was a little off.

A birthday shout out to David (SuperDave). Have a good one mate. Sorry I couldn't slam a few beers with ya yesterday. Being stuck in the office is a bit of a killer. In SuperDave fashion: Edit: Damn those girls are so dirty... in the bad way.

You need to think with a little bit of common sense here. If the 2AZ is facing the same direction (ie. the gearbox is on the left and side of the engine) as the 2ZR, then the engine obviously has to be spinning in the same direction. Think about it. All that's different is the exhaust valves are on the opposite side to the intake valves. With respect to the engine, having these on either side is not the factor that determines engine rotation.