DJKOR

That's what +12v means.... the positive. I personally haven't looked myself, but it could be possible that there is a switched +12v source in the harness on the left hand side of the boot, but TBH, I never checked for that. I doubted there would have been which is why I didn't bother in the first place, but also as well I prefer to stick with convention, even if it meant running a longer length of wire. Plus it allowed me to wire a switch in between which allows me to switch my amp off on demand (resetting it if the amp protection kicks in). I wouldn't say they were lazy. The reason they have avoided the split fold rear seats is due to that V-brace extending between the two strut towers. For the American Gen 6 Camry, they have different configurations in which the SE (Sportivo equivalent) has the V-brace with no split-fold seats and the other models have the split-fold seats and no V-brace. Personally, I'd prefer the extra bracing.

If your head unit has a subwoofer output, it should have a remote trigger output. Most aftermarket units have these. It is commonly a blue wire. Anyways, if you don't have it or don't feel like using it, you can just tap into the +12v out of the cigarette lighter. This will do the trick for triggering the amplifier.

Not without opening up the head unit and making some modifications.

This was my take on such devices (aimed for Kangaroo's, but the same concept really) which I still think: LED and HID and Kangaroos

There abouts.

My statement was more of a joke. I've turned up to two Sydney meets, once having to drive from Canberra, the other having to drive from the Hunter Valley. I'm that dedicated .

Welcome mate... to the Members Rides anyways. The body colour eyelids are a nice touch. It's amazing how just doing a couple of simple things to the AT-X can make it so much more elegant.

QLD is the place to be if you have an Aurion... unlike the Sydney squad that seems to be focussed around ZRE's :P If you are coming from the Sunny Coast, just be aware not to expect too much. Our meets are nice and simple and can sometimes end up having only a few people turn up. It's just that the drive is a little on the long side and the meet might not leave you satisfied. Who would drive such a distance just for a meet .

Man I have so many drunken experiences that it's enough to make me reconsider my drinking habits... though the idea never sticks. So much to sum up but basically I have a really bad habit of disappearing once I've reached to high of a threshold. This point is usually when I'm about 1 or 2 drinks away from completely passing out. I've been known to be there one moment and then gone the next. It's like a flight response. Somehow though, I always manage to find my way home. Usually by walking. I've walked home from the Valley once (here is a map for reference), and tried to walk home from the City another time, but got picked up by cops when I was on the highway. Apart from that, what I'm really trying to figure out is how I manage to pick up chicks when I'm in a blacked out state. I'm not that good at picking up chicks, but many times I have snapped out of a blackout to find myself with a good looking chick on a dancefloor or elsewhere and for the life of me, I can't remember even meeting the person and what I could have said to them. Also had situations of quite the opposite when I have snapped out of a blackout to find myself being pretty offensive to someone and realising that it's probably time for me to leave. I've made a resolution this year to avoid drinking for the purpose of getting completely smashed now.

Post above edited slightly to include more detail on wear. The kit I got is from a seller by the name "SUNSTAR-HID". At the moment, the only kits they have for the 35W H11 design are the slimline ballast kits which cost a little more. Basically though, when it comes to eBay kits, most of them are pretty much the same. As I edited in my post above: In other words, if the kit wasn't up to a good standard, either your bulbs will not ignite, or they will burn out really fast. The thing most people don't realise here is what is involved in HID lighting technology. First you have the lamp which involves a specific gas held under pressure inside the bulb with electrodes on either end that are spaced apart at the right distance, then you have a ballast to drive it which needs to run as per specification to do the job right. There isn't too much room to get either of these things wrong, and if you did, it's going to result in a kit that wears out really really fast. For those with a more technical mind and want to read up about the HID ballast, here is something for you to read: Analysis and Design of High-Intensity-Discharge Lamp Ballast for Automotive Headlamp (Thesis - Yongxuan Hu.pdf) If you chose not to read it, here is once section in there related to what I have mentioned above. Remembering that this was written in 2001 so it may have things stated a little differently (ie. HID's only in luxury cars etc), but the way they work today is still the same:

Each to their own. I've had a $75 kit fitted in my Aurion since the day I started driving it. That means I have had my set for 23 months so far. I do a lot of night driving so they get a lot of use and I have even travelled down some really, really bumpy roads while using them (which is one way to wear the bulbs a little harder) and have had absolutely no issues. I have used cheap kits like these in the past and the two other cars in the family use them as well with absolutely no issues. As far as I'm concerned, getting at least 2 years life out of a $75 kit is money well spent. The technology involved with HID's is a little bit advanced so it takes a fair level of quality in the first place for it to work properly. If it works in the first place, you already have a set of decent quality. The thing that wears these kits out faster than anything else is not taking proper car of them, ie. running them for very short durations, flashing them, not allowing cooling time before turning them on again if you turn them off, and not letting the arc stabilise then driving immediately. The extra wear from some of these conditions isn't drastic, but it's extra wear nevertheless. Whatever makes you comfortable. Spend what you want.

If you are going to spend $50 or more on a set of bulbs, your best bet it to spend a little bit extra and pick up a set of HID's for like $75 shipped. Despite what people say, a tinted bulb of the same wattage is not going to be any brighter than the stock halogen counterpart. The colour of the light can trick you into thinking it is brighter, but it is not.

Sorry mate, didn't reply here for some reason. The only thing I can think of is the grounding. Are your high beams like a H1 or something in which you only have one wire connecting to it? If so, you would find this is the positive wire and the grounding for the bulb is done through the spring clip that holds the bulb in place. Over time, it is possible that this spring clip and build up carbon deposits on the surface of it and therefore prevent the bulb from grounding. When this happens, your high beams won't activate. Usually cleaning the spring clip with some sand paper can help. First things first, you should test the connector for the bulb to ensure power is getting to it firstly. This can rule out problems prior to that. As well, if you have H4 style low beams, take them out and inspect it to see if both filaments inside are still intact. With my old Camry, if the high beam filament on the H4 bulb was blown, the secondary high beams would not activate.

An extension on what Will (Ascendant Rice) has said, clicking on the 'Last post by:' will only take you to the most recent post. If you want to start off where you left, make sure you are logged in and then if there is a little orange box next to the thread title, click on it. This will take you to the next unread post since you were there last. Attached is a screenshot for example. It you make it so the newest posts come first, what happens when you get to a thread where there are 20 new replies? Then you will see the last reply then have to scroll down firstly to the first of those 20 replies, and then scroll up to read the other. This method just doesn't make sense, and as HT mentioned, it goes against English convention.

I didn't see the news thing, but I completely agree with you mate. It's the news.. they will try anything to make a story.

... and to give some people the hope of getting laid Anyways, Happy Chinese New Year!!!

Just connect it to the Left channel of the amplifier which is the white socket. This is the standard for mono connections.

Well with the 'fancy , that's what I like to think of it as', climate control, usually you can get it into some diagnostic mode in which the display can show a code to help find where the problem is at. Not sure how this is done on the Kluger though. I was led to believe that this would automatically come up upon error together with the basic flashing light warning, but I guess not. Either way, it wouldn't hurt to check those that I have mentioned above regardless of whether you can see the actual code or not.

If you mean just the A/C indicator lamp is flashing (as in a manual A/C system, not the fancy digital climate control) then this indicates there is an issue with the A/C system... which you have realised. One possible issue it will flash for is when the A/C control circuit is not operating like it should, but most of the time you would find that is the compressor clutch that is not engaging. Probably caused by a relay or fuse fault. Firstly check your fuses in the engine bay and if they look good, then if you have a multimeter, checking the relay would be a good idea. I can't really tell you what your fuses/relay is labelled as since I'm not familiar with the Gen 1 Kluger, so you may need to look around yourself. The fuses should be simple and labelled as 'A/C' or 'A/C No. 1/2' and can be either in the engine bay fuse block or the interior fuse block. As for the relay, this will more than likely be in the engine bay and can be labelled as 'MGC' standing for Magnetic Clutch.

It is a possibility, but you would have to perform tests on it and monitor everything to determine if that is a cause. Without seeing what yours is throwing though, one can't jump to any conclusions. I would personally say it would be your O2 sensors not reading something correctly or your intake coming into play (MAF placement I've heard can be pretty critical), but like I said, you can't tell without seeing where the error is coming from firstly. I can't even narrow my issue down that much. With the way my car is driven, I'm actually surprised it doesn't stay on 24/7. The only thing that provides some pattern is the time between errors and the time that I changed my bearing. I guess I will get it read again and if it says the same as last time, I will get it cleared and see it comes back in approximately 37 days.

It's easier for the ABS sensor to miss an entire revolution which on the greater scale of things, will be MUCH greater than the inaccuracies caused by slightly different tires. The difference is, I've actually had my codes read prior to find that it is narrowed down to the ABS/VSC system and not the emissions control. This is why I always say to everyone that you should get the codes read when it appears. Otherwise you are making rather broad assumptions.

Find or make an image, trying to be respectful of others and keeping a conservative size (150-175px vertical is a good number), and them upload it to a hosting service like ImageShack, PhotoBucket, or TinyPic. Then you take the direct url link (ending in .jpg) and inset it into your signature through the control panel with the IMG HTML code like so: [img=http://djkor.com/external/image/Signature-TOCAU-5.jpg]

Um... any reason why it wasn't added to the progress thread of similar name since that has posts containing the previous configurations: Air intake mods

I'd still prefer to find what the cause of mine is. Twice in two months is enough to make me question what it causing it. As harmless as it could possibly be, it's better to know than not to know. Another theory I have is that it is to do with my rear ABS speed sensors. My reasoning for this is that the warning popped up a little longer than a month since all the codes were cleared. Now the first time this error popped up was 37 days ago on the 7th of January. So lets say it takes about that time for the warning to show. Now lets say there were no codes set in the ECU 37 days before the warning first popped up. That many days before the 7th of January was the 1st of December. What happened around that time? Well on the 2nd of December, I changed my left rear hub bearing. Hmmm. What if... If this was to be the cause, what I would imagine is happening is that the older hub bearing/sensor, due to wear and tear, or reading the rotation of the wheel with a slightly greater inaccuracy when compared to a new bearing/sensor. Because one side is new and one side is old, these figures don't really match up as expected with the given turn angle etc and over time it probably sees it as an error. This is just a thought based on my crazy mind.

It looks like a baby Gen 5 Camry.