trentmeyer23

Actually, do you even have an IG- terminal on the diagnostic check connector? I only just noticed that it appears that the engine in the picture runs a dual coil pack(DIS) setup, not a distributor and single coil. You may require tachometer a signal driver, something like MSD or Autometer make.

I don't own a petrol Hilux and I no longer have the same ignition system in the vehicle that I added the tachometer to. So a photo is not possible. It would be easier for you to provide detailed photos of what you are doing exactly. Including the lower and upper side with the cap open. All Toyotas with that diagnostic port should be exactly the same in terms of how you wire up the tachometer signal, providing you are splicing the correct wire and setting the tachometer to the 4 cylinder setting.

To be honest, I think it may even have the incorrect mount fitted previously. This may have been due to availability or incorrect parts supply. They are clearly interchangeable. I just re-read that you said that the Touring was supposed to be the "comfy" model. This is actually not correct. The Touring was supposed to be the stiffer, more sporty version of the models, Toyota did their best to minimise the harshness. It was designed to catch the market from the Australian touring car series of the time. So the solid mount results you have been getting were probably correct. As can be seen here: http://www.mynrma.com.au/motoring-services/reviews/car-reviews/toyota/camry-touring.htm The correct bolt should be the same part through all V6 and 4 Cyl Camry models from 1993-2002. Should be easy enough to get from a wreckers. This should be the part number: https://www.amayama.com/en/search?q=90105-12274

I use http://www.rockauto.com/ quite regularly as well, it is a US market site. It has images to help, but you just need to double check they aren't a generic image. There is the risk of parts not being compatible, but the prices are far cheaper for aftermarket parts. That being said I have only had 3 parts that were not correct, due to local manufacturing here in Australia being slightly different. 3 parts different out of hundreds isn't too bad. The OEM part number you listed also matched with the US OEM parts manuals as well.

If it is a new part, then yes. If it was damaged due to negligence/laziness; to some degree, yes. If it is a part with quite a few years or kilometres and had to be replaced due to disturbance required to access a component(s) that would otherwise be non-accessible, then no. The struggle is proving that the damage has been caused intentionally or by incompetence. This is where an honest mechanic comes into their own.

See the photo below and follow the instructions above, you will need to strip back the tape on the loom at the base the access the wiring. If you don't feel comfortable attempting this, seek a professional(auto elec) to carry out the task. The ignition coil produces much higher voltages than the other system circuits of the vehicle.

Welcome back. It appears that all of your old Imageshack photo links are broken. The more photos you can upload, the better. Sadly, for various reasons a lot of the old school guys have moved on.

Disconnect the battery. Otherwise it is fairly straight forward. Just because you have 12.4V doesn't necessarily mean the battery is still ok. You need to test it while it is under load from the starter. If it drops below 10V you could also have battery or connection/corrosion issues as well. Unless it is for some reason unique, it should have the 13 tooth pinion.

No one, that's my point. You don't know what has happened when you were not present. Unfortunately there are some incompetent and untrustworthy people in the business. Also, whilst I understand your frustration, please keep your language PG.

Did you see the whole job in progress? He may have removed it after something occurred. If it was fine before it went to him and not afterwards, it is very unlikely(not impossible) that it let go on its own. I doubt this guy has done anything intentially, rather a case of incompetence.

If the engine was lifted with the hoses still connected to the radiator and he ran out of slack in the hose, it could definitely weaken the clamping seal from the core to the top tank. The hoses are far stronger than you would think.

Put a fuse between the relay and battery. Otherwise, it sounds about right. Either grab a relay kit or choose appropriate sized wiring for your application. You don't need larger gauge wire from the relay to the switch, but you will for the battery to relay and relay to lights.

Definitely avoid that mechanic now. The part may not be cheap, but in most circumstances you will get the genuine part you ask for(aside from human error).

Correct. Toyota use this pitch for almost every(if not all) vehicles.

That is the genuine part number you supplied. They don't show pics as you normally have a parts manual or a part number to order from them. They buy from dealers in the UAE and Japan. Not sure why the 2 prices, but they will be the same genuine part. Was the exhaust removed during the work that was conducted?

Welcome.

Yes. If you do a forum search, you should find the results.

I have used Amayama many times before. They have warehouses in Japan, UAE and Australia. https://www.amayama.com/en/search?q=123610A020

3M outdoor double sided tape. Ensure the surfaces are cleaned and prepped with wax and grease remover.

The transmission mount is completely different in design to the front engine mount. If fact on the V6 models every mount is completely different.

It's hard to say without them side by side. They haven't sent you the 4 cylinder mount or auto mount, have they?

I do know what you are talking about. I honestly don't think the hydraulic mount makes that much of a difference. If you can get a solid mount to get you out of trouble while you continue your search, you will at least have your car back. Do you only need the mount because of the bolt?

If you can't find one locally, I have had good luck with the 3S platform on Rockauto in the US. So that may be worth a try.

I tend to throw factory stereos in the bin. They are generally more hassle than they are worth.

Welcome.