trentmeyer23

Welcome.

Unfortunately, it's not that easy. You would be better served taking measurements and requesting measurements from a seller if you are looking to buy.

Only use a very small amount as it may sling if too much is used. Petroleum jelly may be a better option.

The design of a starter motor does not work well with waterproofing as they usually have a breather and a bearing(pinion end) that water will enter. You may need to open it up and give it a hit with some electrical contact cleaner and potentially lubricate the pinion shaft with a small amount of grease/oil. Assess the damage as you go.

Any salt water? Otherwise it is either full of water or other debris; possibly corrosion. The thing that throws out is called the "pinion". As much as you don't want to pull it out and mess with it; it is probably the only long term option. Water is the almost the worst thing you can subject metal and electrical components to. The more you drive through water, the less reliable your ute will become. I have a strong feeling that your alternator could be one of the next things to fail. I have seen this before, check for sticks, mud, etc. The easy solution is don't drive through/get bogged in water. Unfotunately it is the risk vs reward of 4WDing through water.

If any difference, maybe a few millimetres. They are essentially the same chassis.

Try ringing the performance shops in your local area. I would make sure I had a spare $10,000. This could be on the low side depending on where you go, the quality of their work and what your desired result is.

A 1JZ-GTE swap has been done quite a few times. Usually cheap-ish to buy and produces a good whack of power. It's never cheap once labour is factored in though. Slightly newer model, but same principle:

Both will definitely be more benefical; however, if you only hand enough money for one, the swaybar would offer the best value for money.

Welcome.

Take the $6K and run!

It all comes down to the risk you are willing to take and the potential fines you can afford.

If you are happy to live with the cons, then it may be the option for you. Keep in mind it is not legal. An added con is, that already bus-like turning circle, will only get bigger. So say goodbye to tight carparks. It is a case by case basis regarding the breaking of components. Some do, some don't. I would; however, try and track down a secondhand locker before going to the extremes of welding. You will want to make sure that the welds are clean and no weld debris ends up in the diff carrier. It will chew the bearings up quicker than the time it took you to weld it. You will likely end up defected and not able to pass a roadworthy, depending on state.

In that case, I have no idea welhere he is putting this "shim". The gearbox is only supposed to have 2 adjustable shims. The output shaft bearing and the diff preload shim. Both require dismantling of the gearbear to adjust.

Has it got a hard cable running from the rear of the temperature mixer knob?

Good to hear. That is very surprising.

I'm not sure if you are following. The entire gearbox needs to be disassembled in order to access the shims. See below. This thread will remain open as I will not be closing it.

Closed. Duplicate post. Please post only once per subject and in the correct area. Your other thread has been moved to the WTB section.

This may assist:

It's not normal. It sounds like a bearing squeak. Could be one of the accesories belt pulley bearings beginning to fail. It may on the off chance be a small belt slip. Have a mechanic have a look at it.

The globes could be on their last legs. Pull it out and have a look.

I've only heard of it once on these forums, but there are multiple instances reported on the New Hilux forums.

Welcome.

Diagnosis will need to be done next time it occurs. Do you have a multimeter?

They should fit just fine providing the years/models are the same.