trentmeyer23

Is it blowing any air(warm/hot) on the drivers side? Is it the standard A/C or the dual zone climate control?

Keep us posted if it comes back at all. If it does, it will give people an idea of how long the fix lasts.

How long has it been since you rectified it?

Seems to be a fairly common problem with Toyota head units. If the files in the other thread you posted in do not get sent to you; or do not work, your best option in the long term might be to bin it and buy an aftermarket unit.

Good to see. Please create a topic under the Members Rides sub-forum and post all the pics in there.

This would be the case if the gear had been able to be engaged in the first place and then popped out, which is usually input/output shaft bearings. Back to the question at hand. If you have a means of getting underneath(safely), I would hop under and have someone move the shifter whilst observing the shift linkages/bell crank. If this is not possible, I would suggest getting a mechanic to have a look.

DJKOR is no longer an active member on these forums.

For some reason, I read Hilux, not Tarago. There would likely be a bell crank in that case.

Assuming manual gearbox? There are shift forks which attach to shift rods. You could pull the shifter out and look at the shift rods.

The output shaft is tested the same way as the video, except it is turned via the the nut. The diff and input shaft should not be installed when testing the output shaft. This video will assist quite well. Different transmission; however, very similar in design. It also shows the torque wrench style. https://youtube/EOJmUhQ5ThA

Thicker shims will increase the preload. Thinner shims will decrease it. The preload is checked using a very small flex beam(not click type) or dial style torque wrench. In order to test the diff preload, you do not want the input or output(more so) shaft in the transmission; as they create extra drag and make the preload inaccurate. The same test procedure applies to the output shaft preload settings. I made a tool for doing the diff preload, by parting off a spare CV stub that I had for the V6 gearbox I was rebuilding; and welding a nut in. I then thread locked the bolt in place. .

Are you referring to the diff preload shims? If so, shims were available from 1.90mm to 2.80mm in 0.05mm increments. They may no longer be available. Preload should be 0.8 to 1.6 Nm. Each shim will change preload approximately 0.3 to 0.4 Nm. These preload figures are with an empty transmission housing except for the diff and with the transmission case bolts torqued to 29Nm.

Does it affect perfomance in any way?

Should have a rough overall diameter of 700mm. The width should be roughly 245mm. A quick measure from the floor to the masonite sheet should get you on the right track. The other option is to pull one of the wheels off the car to test fit. I only say this because I wouldn't expect that many people; if any, would have gone with a 19 inch spare.

Think of it along the lines of worst case scenario. Massive accident and the fridge goes flying through the car(pessimistic I know). Bolting it to the floor will be your best option. Try and see underneath to the best of your abilities. Make a template out of cardboard if need be to check for spacing and clearances. If you do bolt it to the floor, use some touch up paint on the holes and Sikaflex for waterproofing.

The Facebook page has a list of all of the dealers that people have had luck with so far. https://www.facebook.com/groups/803730803039477/

The TRD Aurion has a Camry Sportivo 17 inch rim painted yellow. Diameter-wise it should fit, provided you haven't altered the rolling diameter. What size tyres do you have fitted to the 19's?

The O2 sensors could be fouled a well. You could pull them out and give them a hit with some brake cleaner. It may or may not work, but it is quick and relatively inexpensive to do.

I never messed around with ours, but there should be a switch near the top of the pedal, very similar to a brake pedal switch. The circuit will be open when the pedal is released(at the top of travel) and closed once the pedal has been depressed past the length of the switch travel. It should be somewhat similar to this:

For those not in the know, tuning company Blitz got their hands on a C-HR and made a few tweaks. It was on show at Tokyo Autosalon. The wheels fitted are: ENKEI RS05RR. Pics are from various websites.

I kind of like the accents in the bumper, but not as much down the side.

Welcome.

I believe there are a few models around that have factory integration.

Welcome.

If it's not clutch master/slave cylinder related, you will be up for that kind of money to replace the clutch. Has the clutch hydraulic system been bled lately?