Wheel alignment specs

[Higgo78]

Hi all, purchased an 2007 Aurion ZR6 a month or so ago and am noticing the pull left issue is getting worse as the weeks go by. I wish I had researched a bit before purchasing! I did notice it pulling left when I took it for a test drive, but after toyota did a alignment it was all good. 5 weeks down the track and I don't dare let go of the steering wheel for fear of ending up in the sidewalk! Even at 60km an hour only takes around 5 secs to cross 3 lanes of traffic.

The missus just picked it up from 90,000km service where I requested another wheel alignment, and also mentioned a clunking feeling when turning right around roundabout. After reading some of the responses on this forum, it doesn't suprise me that they told the missus the tyres are pretty worn, that is what is causing the pull left issue, and the clunk you can feel when turning is normal, monitor it and bring it back if it gets worse.

My Toyota dealership (different one than where I bought car) is 30km away, no surprises when I just went down the shops the car is pulling to left not even 50 km after having wheel alignment.

I seem to question myself why I paid $1700 for extra care warranty when toyota don't even acknowledge known problems. Will fitting the Superpro bushes void the warranty completely??? As I intend to be very annoying and persistant about the intermediate steering shaft problem, I want to get something for my $1700....

Regards, Higgo

[Pah]

Hi all, purchased an 2007 Aurion ZR6 a month or so ago and am noticing the pull left issue is getting worse as the weeks go by. I wish I had researched a bit before purchasing! I did notice it pulling left when I took it for a test drive, but after toyota did a alignment it was all good. 5 weeks down the track and I don't dare let go of the steering wheel for fear of ending up in the sidewalk! Even at 60km an hour only takes around 5 secs to cross 3 lanes of traffic.

The missus just picked it up from 90,000km service where I requested another wheel alignment, and also mentioned a clunking feeling when turning right around roundabout. After reading some of the responses on this forum, it doesn't suprise me that they told the missus the tyres are pretty worn, that is what is causing the pull left issue, and the clunk you can feel when turning is normal, monitor it and bring it back if it gets worse.

My Toyota dealership (different one than where I bought car) is 30km away, no surprises when I just went down the shops the car is pulling to left not even 50 km after having wheel alignment.

I seem to question myself why I paid $1700 for extra care warranty when toyota don't even acknowledge known problems. Will fitting the Superpro bushes void the warranty completely??? As I intend to be very annoying and persistant about the intermediate steering shaft problem, I want to get something for my $1700....

Regards, Higgo

I never had any problems with them replacing the intermediate shaft after I told them it was a known fault and had read about it on this forum. The service guy seemed to have selective hearing though as twice he tried to charge me for it even though I took in the extra care warranty paperwork. Keep annoying them and they will eventually come to the party

Cheers

Peter

[Spider]

I'm happy to say things went very well and the boys there were extremely helpful with putting in the kit and getting the alignment right.

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Conroe was that Silverwater NSW?

Did they supply the parts, what parts and how much supplied,fitted and alligned?

Thanks mate.

Spied

[Spider]

Hi all. Just got back in my 2007 Camry from Qld to Sydney and the pulling left issue is a pita. My new tyres are about shot yet again. Does anyone know of a place in Sydney say Parra to Penrith that can supply and fit a fix for this either the kit or the "bolts" I have read about in this thread? Thank you so much.

[Adamsy]

About 6 months ago i posted the alignment spec for AT-X, Prodigy & Presara. As well as Sportivo and TRD's own unique settings too but i can't find the post now :( I’ll dig out the specs again, and post in FAQ.

[KenChen]

I'm happy to say things went very well and the boys there were extremely helpful with putting in the kit and getting the alignment right.

-------------

Conroe was that Silverwater NSW?

Did they supply the parts, what parts and how much supplied,fitted and alligned?

Thanks mate.

Spied

It would be nice to know... I work close to Silverwater NSW so it would be good to know they can fix the issue...

[Pittsy]

Just rang a Fulcrum dealer/fitter in Moorabbin Vic and they quote to supply the Superpro SPF2904K parts with labour and a wheel alignment a total of $470......

Not sure if I want to spend that much.....

Ahhhhhhh

Edited August 7, 2012 by Pittsy

[Rau]

I experience this 'pull-left' issue. Seems to me the pull-left is mostly in response to the road camber - meaning, if you find a dead flat stretch of road, the car will run pretty straight if you let go of the steering. But on "ordinary" roads, and I'm just talking about travelling at low speed around residential streets, it pulls left, and you need a constant force applied to the steering wheel to stay straight. I'm surprised no one has suggested that there might event be a slight safety issue with this.

My previous vehicle was a Toyota Vienta Grande - and by comparison, I find the Aurion steering to feel quite a bit heavier (more effort required). The Vienta did not pull to the left.

Can anyone tell me -- is the factory setup of the wheel-alignment meant to be set so as to counter the road camber, or does it assume a dead flat road surface? [if it's the former, then cars for driving on the left will be set different to those driving on the right side of road.]

[Puplefish]

I don't even know if this is going to be read by someone since I'm posting it a year after the last reply but I've just purchased a 2010 Aurion and it pulls left BADLY.

I just drove it about 400-500 km today and my back is all twisted up from having to fight the car to get it straight the whole way.

After reading this thread I still don't know if this is an issue with the suspension or an issue with road camber. I wouldn't mind if I was just counteracting the camber of the road but this car pulls left hard even on flat road surfaces, still pulls really slightly left or drives straight if I drive on opposite (right) sloped camber. So how hard are the Aurions meant to be pulling left? I've driven other cars and I know they go left because of slope of the road but this one is crazy, even driving around town is hurting my back from constantly applying clockwise pressure to the wheel just to go straight.

[Zerko]

First thing to do, would be to take it to a reputable wheel alignment joint to check if it's within spec. Then, depending on the results, get the castor correction kit to suit. Are your tyres wearing evenly?

[ZZT86]

Does anyone here have the SPECS for the late model Aussie GSV50R Sportivo with the 18" wheels by chance ?

[Tony Prodigy]

5 hours ago, ZZT86 said:

Does anyone here have the SPECS for the late model Aussie GSV50R Sportivo with the 18" wheels by chance ?

I'd call a tyre place and ask them as they'd have the specs in their wheel alignment system.

Each time I get my alignment certificate, it shows what it 'was' and how it 'is'. So the final numbers will be the actual spec.

[Tony Prodigy]

I was also thinking to add a tad more negative camber to the front because Aurions tend to chew the outside edge of the tyres especially the left side. I suspect that the factory spec for wheel alignment was more suited to the original Bridgestone tyres which had a high shoulder wall. Not sure... Just speculating.

I'll have to discuss this with the tyre people and get their advice. 

More negative camber may even out the wear issue I've been experiencing.

Edited October 20, 2020 by Tony Prodigy

[ZZT86]

I quizzed the shop in an email last night about specs. I do have the alignment report which suggests they used the old ACV40R specs to set my car up. This is technically wrong although the specs appear to be ballpark compared with our GSV50R repair manual. Problem is it doesn't give figures for MY16 cars with the 18" wheels, I'm hoping not much difference if any. Shops excuse was don't have latest software update - pathetic. Need confirmation.

I spoke to the guru of the shop today who also said what you just did regarding outside wear which is why he recommended pumping them to 38psi (225/45/18) which will aid in keeping the contact patch/tread flat. I'll keep any eye on that one 😉

You can adjust the front camber a little by loosening the front hub bolts, if not enough then you would have to replace them to give you the amount of neg camber you after, perhaps 0.25-0.5deg ?

Edited October 21, 2020 by ZZT86

[Tony Prodigy]

6 hours ago, ZZT86 said:

I quizzed the shop in an email last night about specs. I do have the alignment report which suggests they used the old ACV40R specs to set my car up. This is technically wrong although the specs appear to be ballpark compared with our GSV50R repair manual.

So the 40 have a different geometry to the 50 ??

6 hours ago, ZZT86 said:

Problem is it doesn't give figures for MY16 cars with the 18" wheels, I'm hoping not much difference if any

I wouldn't think the size of the wheels would make for a different set of adjustment parameters. I've never heard of such a thing to be honest. I always though the wheels are just set up on a certain axis and that was it.

6 hours ago, ZZT86 said:

I spoke to the guru of the shop today who also said what you just did regarding outside wear which is why he recommended pumping them to 38psi (225/45/18) which will aid in keeping the contact patch/tread flat. I'll keep any eye on that one 😉

Tyre pressure is also another interesting thing. I had a look over my Bob Jane tyre service records and they wrote 36 psi in there when they fitted my Primacy LCs. I forgot about this and have been following the tyre placard info in the door jamb, which requires 240 kpa (34 psi). Maybe this uneven wear was underinflation even though the factory recommend something lower. Strange. So you reckon 38 psi would be the magic number then ??

7 hours ago, ZZT86 said:

You can adjust the front camber a little by loosening the front hub bolts, if not enough then you would have to replace them to give you the amount of neg camber you after, perhaps 0.25-0.5deg ?

I love to learn how to be able to do this but you need specialised tools wouldn't you ? Wheel alignments are getting more expensive these days. Between $60 and $75 now.

[campbeam]

Attached is a Whiteline camber bolt fitting guide. Following diagram shows the placement.

I have also added 17mm front camber bolts to my eBay WatchList.  Already have the 15mm camber bolts to fit the Aurion rear.

Camber Bolts Fitting Guide.pdf

[ZZT86]

Pretty sure I saw different figures for 16 & 17" wheels on our Repair Manual. I'm also guessing 40 & 50 different cars & given 40 series issues with alignment, Toyota fixed those on the latest 50 series. I'll confirm tonight.

To clarify, my MY16 Sportivo specs 36psi as the usual standard pressures, the shop recommends 38psi. Different wheels/tyre size/car combos may be different !

[Tony Prodigy]

5 hours ago, campbeam said:

Attached is a Whiteline camber bolt fitting guide. Following diagram shows the placement.

I have also added 17mm front camber bolts to my eBay WatchList.  Already have the 15mm camber bolts to fit the Aurion rear.

Camber Bolts Fitting Guide.pdf 108.56 kB · 0 downloads

Thanks for that Ashley. I'll have to have a good read of this.

[Tony Prodigy]

3 hours ago, ZZT86 said:

I'm also guessing 40 & 50 different cars & given 40 series issues with alignment, Toyota fixed those on the latest 50 series. I'll confirm tonight.

Somehow I doubt it. My car has always had the left side chew tyres faster than the right side.

3 hours ago, ZZT86 said:

To clarify, my MY16 Sportivo specs 36psi as the usual standard pressures, the shop recommends 38psi. Different wheels/tyre size/car combos may be different !

The tyre placard in the drivers door jamb says 240 kpa both front and rear. 34.8 psi. Shop reckons 36 psi, others are saying 38 psi. Who do you go with ??

[campbeam]

2 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:

The tyre placard in the drivers door jamb says 240 kpa both front and rear. 34.8 psi. Shop reckons 36 psi, others are saying 38 psi. Who do you go with ??

As I mentioned before, go read your owner's manual. You will find a number of recommended tyre pressures for different driving conditions. Suggest you select a higher tyre pressure that suits your driving conditions.

Attached document indicates that we need more negative camber to offset the wear on the outer edge of the tyre.

Toyota Aurion Wheel Alignment Data Specifications.docx

[Tony Prodigy]

19 minutes ago, campbeam said:

As I mentioned before, go read your owner's manual. You will find a number of recommended tyre pressures for different driving conditions. Suggest you select a higher tyre pressure that suits your driving conditions.

Will do Ash. Thanks for the document too.

[ZZT86]

^^ -1.42 - 0.08 - Struth what a camber variation, those figures can't be right. This is what annoys me, there's too much variation between cars, countries & shop info, see attached data. Not a definitive set of specs for our aussie tuned cars I know but it's all I have for either 40 & 50 series. I will try track some correct data maybe from Toyotas TIS online.

ps: for what it's worth I also have always kept pressures on my cars at about 35-36psi on the sportscars & it's refreshing to see my Aurion oem spec to be 36, 38 feels fine unless you're after more comfort. I base off placard & then trial & error after that, I usually go higher.

 

GSV40R_WheelAlign.pdf GSV50R_Front WheelAlign.pdf

Edited October 22, 2020 by ZZT86

[L4WL3SS]

Regarding psi, place cards specify low figures for comfort. 

Tyre shops always pump em up to 38-40psi cold where they should be

[Tony Prodigy]

8 minutes ago, Metal_Head said:

Regarding psi, place cards specify low figures for comfort. 

Tyre shops always pump em up to 38-40psi cold where they should be

I would be happy to keep them inflated more for even tyre wear if that is even a possibility.

Roads here are generally ok with the odd corrugation here and there so to have them dialed in just for these isn't justified to be honest. Highway runs are always nice regardless of pressures.

[campbeam]

On 10/22/2020 at 9:46 PM, ZZT86 said:

^^ -1.42 - 0.08 - Struth what a camber variation, those figures can't be right. This is what annoys me, there's too much variation between cars, countries & shop info, see attached data. Not a definitive set of specs for our aussie tuned cars I know but it's all I have for either 40 & 50 series. I will try track some correct data maybe from Toyotas TIS online.

I have attached my wheel alignment printouts Feb.2020 and Aug.2020. I was informed that they had replaced the wheel alignment machine after February. August printout shows the "Target Data" in the centre column. Interesting the difference in camber range between the front and rear axles.

Wheel Alignment Reports_2020.pdf