Front Rotors/pads

[Tony Prodigy]

Hahaha yeah.. I have to clear a space on one of shelves in an old pantry cupboard I have in my garage. I'll call it "My Aurion" Shelf.

[campbeam]

Good that you are organised and will only have to look in one place.

Not going to say how many places and storage containers I have to search. Still looking for those M6 bolts for the transmission pan.

[Tony Prodigy]

8 hours ago, campbeam said:

Good that you are organised and will only have to look in one place.

Not going to say how many places and storage containers I have to search. Still looking for those M6 bolts for the transmission pan.

When one has so much differing stuff, you have to try and keep some order. My garage is by no means organised. It's a little messy at the moment, but I have started to reorganise and categorise the different things. I also have storage containers, those tactix storage bins I use to store N.O.S. motorcycle parts (keeps them from degrading if placed on a shelf) and my detailing products (need to keep these clean and dust free).

 They are very strong and well made and will last a life time. Those cheaper clear plastic ones are ok, but you have to be careful not to drop one because they will shatter. The Tactix ones will never break. You can also get a cheap label maker and label all your bins so you have an idea where to start looking.

https://www.bunnings.com.au/tactix-30l-heavy-duty-storage-box_p2583689
https://www.bunnings.com.au/tactix-45l-heavy-duty-storage-box_p2583690
https://www.bunnings.com.au/tactix-60l-heavy-duty-storage-box_p2583691

 

[campbeam]

1 hour ago, Tony Prodigy said:

I have started to reorganise and categorise the different things.

Yes I have been gradually reorganising myself. Certainly refreshing the memory about how much oil I gave on hand. I recently bought 6 of the "attractively priced" storage boxes from SCA when on special. 

1 hour ago, Tony Prodigy said:

They are very strong and well made and will last a life time. Those cheaper clear plastic ones are ok, but you have to be careful not to drop one because they will shatter. The Tactix ones will never break.

I should start buying ones that will last a lifetime. 

[Tony Prodigy]

My front brake pads arrived today. I ordered two sets for the front and as you all know a single set for the rear. I don't have to worry about brakes or oil for a while now... I can concentrate more on detailing work 

 

[Tony Prodigy]

I came across this little device that tests brake fluid and thought, what the hey..

It measures the amount of moisture apparently. I haven't had a chance to try it out as yet, but I'll let you all know soon.

Anyone else have gadgets like these ?

 

[KAA]

I love gadgets too but don't have many for the car..let us know if it does as the label says..would be handy

KAA

[campbeam]

15 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:

I came across this little device that tests brake fluid and thought, what the hey..

It measures the amount of moisture apparently. I haven't had a chance to try it out as yet, but I'll let you all know soon.

Anyone else have gadgets like these ?

 

Now that looks like a handy item to have. Interested to see your post when you do use it.

[Tony Prodigy]

Yep, for sure. If I remember i'll have a go with it this afternoon. 

[Tony Prodigy]

I had a crack at this test this morning. I was hoping to do my D-Max (still has a Factory Fill) also but it's reservoir is shaped such that when the fluid drops a bit it doesn't provide the access to probe into the lower portion of the reservoir where the fluid resides..  So off to the Aurion. The initial indication is very good seeing I only recently flushed the fluid so I was expecting a good result. The tester indicated less that 1%. I don't think it's possible for brake fluid, even a brand new sealed one, to have absolutely zero % moisture content. Would this be a fair assumption ?

So to further add a little more scrutiny to the tester I still had the glass jar I had used to collect the old fluid from my recent flush and test this. Funny enough, it too came back the same result.

So I thought to add a tiny amount of water, swill it around and then re test. The tester indicated "Danger". So it does seem to work.

Conclusion. Although this test is not even remotely scientific, even old fluid can still be ok perhaps, although not ideal, one should not panic in a hurry if they are overdue for a fluid flush. I think sticking to the "every two years" regime would be fine. I'm even more happy to do it annually.

First two pics is my Aurion and the second two of the Raguletto Jar is water added to brake fluid

[campbeam]

5 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:

I don't think it's possible for brake fluid, even a brand new sealed one, to have absolutely zero % moisture content. Would this be a fair assumption ?

Just guessing that a tester with a flexible lead will suit those vehicles with harder to access reservoirs.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DY23-DY23B-Handheld-Car-Brake-Fluid-Oil-Tester-Pen-Fuel-Automotive-Detector-HOT/293548462036?hash=item4458da0fd4:g:qpUAAOSw6N9ek71W

I was recently reading up on brake fluid and there was a brand used in motor racing that has zero air content due to their manufacturing process. Probably only way to achieve a zero % moisture content would be to have a very low humidity environment in the manufacturing environment. Presumably better to have fully sealed bottles so the brake fluid cannot easily absorb moisture before the bottle is opened. Probably a bit over the top, I store my brake fluid bottles either lying down or upside down. 

Anyway your testing proved that this tool can produce the necessary results. It should be quite handy for testing the brake fluid before using it especially if it has not been recently purchased.

 

 

[Bigmike62]

Greetings gents...

Just a quick word about my recent front rotor and pad replacement. Been a couple of months now since I had my local mechanic replace my Presara's front rotors and pads. DBA rotors and Bendix ultimate pads, Penrite dot 3 brake fluid.

Brakes are brilliant. Pedal feel is very firm. Down side is that these pads cause a lot of dust on the rims. Washing them weekly Atm.

I'll replace the rear rotors and pads on my return to QLD. 

Cheers

Mike62

Edited July 8, 2020 by Bigmike62
Spelling

[Tony Prodigy]

6 hours ago, Bigmike62 said:

Down side is that these pads cause a lot of dust on the rims.

Nice one Big Mike. There's nothing better than a refreshed brake system.

Regarding the dust, I have the same problem at present with the bendix pads, which is why I have the Remsa pads ready to go when my Bendix are ready for replacement.

The beauty of the Remsa pads is that they don't produce much dust at all and perform as good if not better than the Bendix.

 

[LordBug]

You got me curious about that moisture content meter. Thought I was going to fall down a rabbit hole, but thankfully it's more of a pothole, quite interesting to learn!
https://media.supercheapauto.com.au/sca/images/articles/Repl_Brake_Fluid.pdf
and http://www.mechanexpert.com/a-full-best-practise-guide-to-brake-fluid-testing/

Though a little part of me feels like I've robbed myself from buying another tool to add to the collection 😛

[Tony Prodigy]

The Super Cheap Auto article was very interesting. I wasn't aware of the Galvanic reaction measured on volts. I'll have to try this too.

Thanks Bertil. ( Lord Bug. Haha love that Moniker ) 

[campbeam]

Yes that SuperCheapAuto article was interesting. The voltage reading of the brake fluid explains how the brake fluid testers work.

Recent learning for me was to lubricate the brake caliper sliding pins using anti-seize copper grease. Something that I had not done in the past when changing brake pads. Now that I know, it is on the maintenance list.

[Tony Prodigy]

6 minutes ago, campbeam said:

Recent learning for me was to lubricate the brake caliper sliding pins using anti-seize copper grease

Yes Ashley, very important and something that can be done relatively quickly while you have it apart.

I applied the bendix grease if you recall a while back when I did my fronts. That reminds me, I have to inspect my front pads again soon as they are getting close to the end.

FYI

https://www.bendix.com.au/bendix-news/bendix-ceramasil-brake-parts-lubricant-0

[boxerboy]

Mechanic said the rear brakes needed sorting: $350. Do that myself I thought.

RDC discs and pads ~ $200 delivered, a bottle of dot4 and off with the left rear. Pads are a whisker over 50% worn, discs have barely a lip either side. No shudder on braking, braking feels good. Whilst there I bled that brake circuit. Fluid read 0.50! 😲 Now reads 0.29. 😀

All back together, new discs and pads into the Aurion shelf for when they're really due.

It's my sons car. He's a conservative driver. With 45% of the pad left how many kms before I should have another look d'ya think?

 

[Tony Prodigy]

On 2/13/2021 at 9:12 PM, boxerboy said:

Mechanic said the rear brakes needed sorting: $350.

I love when they say things like that. They seem to think we're all wood ducks hahaha. Rear brakes take very little punishment compared to the fronts. Good call to leave them as they were because those pads, despite being 50% will probably last another 3 years. The rotors would probably never need replacing unless something major has occurred and I'd think not. 

Good job checking and bleeding. I'd concentrate more on the fronts to be honest. An annual check is all you need, and if your fussy, 6 monthly. Nothing will really go wrong in there if the sliders are lubed and the fluid is flushed regularly. 
If your Son is not heavy footed, the level of degradation is greatly reduced and good for him too . Depending on what brand you have, and being 45%, I'd estimate roughly 12 months or less to be on the safe side. You shouldn't wait until they have no meat left before changing them at the risk of scoring the disc. Change them when they have anywhere between 3mm or less thickness.

A DIY approach is always good to have and will save you plenty of money. Probably good to get your boy involved too. Great learning opportunity for both.

All the best mate 

Edited April 8, 2022 by Tony Prodigy

[campbeam]

1 hour ago, Tony Prodigy said:

I love when they say things like that. They seem to think we're all wood ducks hahaha. Rear brakes take very little punishment compared to the fronts. Good call to leave them as they were because those pads, despite being 50% will probably last another 3 years. The rotors would probably never need replacing unless something major has occurred and I'd think not. 

Good job checking and bleeding. I'd concentrate more on the fronts to be honest. An annual check is all you need, and if your fussy, 6 monthly. Nothing will really go wrong in there if the sliders are lubed and the fluid is flushed regularly. 
If you Son is not heavy footed, the level of degradation is greatly reduced and good for him too . Depending on what brand you have, and being 45%, I'd estimate roughly 12 months or less to be on the safe side. You shouldn't wait until they have no meat left before changing them at the risk of scoring the disc. Change them when they have anywhere between 3mm or less thickness.

A DIY approach is always good to have and will save you plenty of money. Probably good to get your boy involved too. Great learning opportunity for both.

All the best mate 

Fully support what Tony has posted. I expect that it will be a few years or 30K kms before the pads really need to be changed. When the front brake pads and/or rotors need to be replaced, that will be a good time to consider also checking/replacing the rear rotors. 

Best thing for brake maintenance is to regularly change the brake fluid.

[campbeam]

Last weekend, I checked the pads and rotors for wear and possible replacement. Previously I had thought about also about checking or replacing the brake fluid but got a bit hot and tired so left for another time. 

Good bit of timing that The Car Nut posted this YouTube video. After using my brake fluid tester, one yellow light indicated that the fluid was still OK.

 

[boxerboy]

On 2/14/2021 at 7:36 AM, Tony Prodigy said:

I love when they say things like that. They seem to think we're all wood ducks hahaha. Rear brakes take very little punishment compared to the fronts. Good call to leave them as they were because those pads, despite being 50% will probably last another 3 years. The rotors would probably never need replacing unless something major has occurred and I'd think not. 

Good job checking and bleeding. I'd concentrate more on the fronts to be honest. An annual check is all you need, and if your fussy, 6 monthly. Nothing will really go wrong in there if the sliders are lubed and the fluid is flushed regularly. 
If you Son is not heavy footed, the level of degradation is greatly reduced and good for him too . Depending on what brand you have, and being 45%, I'd estimate roughly 12 months or less to be on the safe side. You shouldn't wait until they have no meat left before changing them at the risk of scoring the disc. Change them when they have anywhere between 3mm or less thickness.

A DIY approach is always good to have and will save you plenty of money. Probably good to get your boy involved too. Great learning opportunity for both.

All the best mate 

Thanks and to Campdean too.

Back at the mechanic. Brakes ok, don't need doing yet but next time. 🤔 Only 18Kkms later. Son has been neglecting his vehicle! Can't tell them though 😉

[Tony Prodigy]

For continuity sake, The following link is to reference my second pad change for the front and for the first time replacement of the rear pads.

 

[Tony Prodigy]

I had an unexpected event occur on the 13th April this month , when my wife reported some type of grinding noise coming from the front brakes whilst she was driving to work.

I waited till she got home and thought, yep, time for another front pad change. When she got to work someone from her work had a quick look somehow got the impression that the pads were down to metal and the discs required replacement. I reserved my judgement until I took a look myself. The discs do have some wear on them and it was possible to think the pads had worn themselves down to the core scoring the discs. The discs, if you go back in my thread were the DBA rotors. 

Despite this, I found it a bit hard to believe, so when she got home, I got to jacking the front up, removing the wheels for a decent look.

Surprisingly, I found none of the doomsday claim as reported by said work colleague. Sure the pads were getting close, but by no means worn to the metal. I wouldn't allow that to happen anyway
right ?

So with that, I figured since I have it up and wheels off, I'd swap out the pads with the last remaining Remsa front pads I had in stock. I didn't bother getting any photos this time as I was on a time crunch and was pretty tired from my work day and wanted to get some much needed rest.

So lets recap. 

My first brake pad change occurred on October 14, 2017. Changed front pads and rotors. Original pads were still in at this time and had some life left in them too. Bendix pads went in as did DBA front rotors

The second brake pad change occurred on August 2, 2020 installed with Remsa pads. I also replaced the original rear pads this time too with Remsa. (Two front sets purchased and one rear set)

The third (Current at the time of writing this) front brake pad change occurred on April 13, 2023.

Longevity........

The First brake pad change (Bendix), Oct 14th 2017 to Aug 2nd 2020, lasting 2 years and 10 months..
Original pads lasting 5 years and 6 months 
(Car is an Oct MY2012, first registered in April following year), and the first 40K not driven by us.

Second brake pad set (Remsa), Aug 2nd, 2020  to April 13th 2023, so pads lasting 2 years and 8 months.

Third brake pad set (Remsa)  April 13th, 2023 Current. We'll see how long these will last. They should similar to the above time frame I'm guessing.

So it seems apparent that aftermarket pads don't last anywhere near the Genuine Toyota Pads, which is why I'm going to go back to the Genuine Pads next time around. You get twice the service life in fact and less dust. So my plan is to purchase Genuine front rotors and pads and have on stand by in two years time when the Remsa pads are done. I know Genuine parts aren't cheap but it is for this reason that. 

I still have the original rotors here so I'll dig them out and take another look at them. If they're still good, I'll clean them up and reuse them, after all they haven't got that many kays on them and my initial thought that they were worn on one side turned out to be incorrect and just a photographic error on my part. Nonetheless, It gave me the opportunity to try the highly hyped up DBA rotors.

In my opinion, I wouldn't buy them again. The last time I drove the car there was some noticeable pedal pulsation going on and that was that. My wife doesn't drive the car hard enough to over heat the brakes so warpage should not have been evident. So my estimation of DBA rotors went out the window.

This is the problem with aftermarket. You don't know what quality you're really getting and because we don't make anything here anymore, we're most likely getting stuff made from Chinesium, as we all know is a byword for C.R.A.P.

The Remsa pads are over rated too. They claim to last 5 years and low dust. More C.R.A.P as evidenced by mine and my recent post "Aurion Wash Day" Look at the state of the wheels.

 

 

[campbeam]

I am planning upon checking the front and rear brake pads soon as to whether they need to be replaced now or wait until after winter. Not expecting to have to replace the rotors.

Following YouTube video is relevant. Certainly noted what this 40 year professional said and did. Interesting that there was a brake pulsating problem and the slider pins needed to be lubricated. Also retaining bolts for the brake rotor were easily undone, possibly not tightened correctly by the previous shop.