dutchie101

All i got out of my insider is that Toyota have 2 "Niche" vehicles in the works for the end of the year. For sure i would say the FT-86 is one, can the other be the BLADE??!! Apparently Toyota HQ were very tight lipped about this, and refused to give out any names or models...

Cost is between AU$100-120 depending on where you get them from (plus shipping and agent fees) I got mine sent over with my rims so no fright charge for me.. I was going to make some copies up from the original but its not worth it for that price. They are stainless steel, and the mounting kits/bits are also SS. The fin/air dam is polyurethane by the look of it. They fit into factory holes in the under carage as the pic above shows. Just two bolts (with spacers) hold them in, takes about 5 minutes to install per side. As for snow, i couldnt see a problem, they are well well and strongly built. Any snow that hits them would just be forced down and away from the car. Cant find the part number as i think i accidentally threw out the instructions yesterday. Available from YahooJapan or Plotonline.com, made by Dcatro, just ask/look for ZRE152H 2wd GE1 Ground Effector. They even go electronically controlled/adjusted versions!

Thanks Dave, Pads are for the daily drive (well, medium to spirited daily drive) and weekend mountain thrashes, so i dont want a pad thats too hot, i dont want to have to heat the bejesus out of them to get them to work efficiently. Project-Mu are also on the cards. I sent them an email asking what they recommend for the ZR and my application. Just with the bigger wheels now the brakes arnt as bitey as i would like. NS pads info: Temperature Range 0～400℃ Friction Coefficient 0.37～0.40μ B-Spec info: Temperature Range 0～500℃ Friction Coefficient 0.32～0.45μ Ill check out that thread, thanks.

Not so much unstable, just more sure-footed with decent rims, sus and GE. Especially under mountain driving conditions

:) they actually work from 50kph up. Who really cares about max speed limits anyways??? ...You would be surprised at how little tweaks to the underbody can effector ride quality.

Hey'all. Just looking for an upgrade for the front brake pads on the ZR, been looking thru the Endless range, think im leaning towards the SSM-Sports or SSS-Sport or even the entry level VN. Spiel as on the distributors site: VN: Vita Nuova is our most popular, entry level compound for the everyday sports-minded, city driver concerned especially with safety. For the spirited driver, factory brake pads may feel stressful at times. If so, this compound will appeal to you. This pad focuses on safety and stopping power. First impact, controllability, pedal feeling, noise level, and pad life are all stable for safer driving within the street stage. We produce this compound for most Japanese-make vehicles. We want to produce a safe feeling for all spirited drivers. This is what Vita Nuova is all about. A typical factory brake pad's life and noise level are crucial factors during development. Its potential is lost and the average coefficient of friction is low. Many have probably experienced scary braking situations. Vita Nuova increases the level of the average cofficient of friction. This is necessary for safe stopping power. SSS-Sport: We have researched the correct rotor temperature ranges for the spirited street driver. The rotor temperature range for this compound is wide and mu-level is consistently stable. Thus, brake pedal force does not change considerably at different rotor temperature ranges and braking performance levels maintain consistency on the street given most situations. This is a very controllable compound that is set at a high mu-level. After fade, recovery is achieved while brake performance does not worsen, returning to the mu-levels achieved before fade, right away. Part of the Non-Steel Series, Endless uses a Non-Steel Developmental Process using a new, mild ceramic material to increase rotor friendliness. With no steel materials, dust is minimal and rusting is prevented, enabling ease of cleaning wheels (even with water). SSM-Sport: Drive Safe. Drive Clean. The M compound has been known for its extremely low levels of dust, low noise levels, and long life characteristics. Many consider this the highest grade brake pad for street-type conditions. Very popular amongst car show users and high-end vehicle owners that care very much about maintaining clean wheels and an overall clean look. Part of the Non-Steel Series, Endless uses a Non-Steel Developmental Process with a new, mild ceramic material to increase rotor friendliness. With no steel materials, dust is minimal and rusting is prevented, enabling ease of cleaning wheels (even with water). Anyone had any experience with em?

Thanks all, Also installed a pair of GE1 Ground Effector undercar diffusers Over 100kph the car seems far more stable. They increase downforce and stability. Found another promo pic:

Xoom, we have gone thru all this, its all been discussed in this thread. Might pay to read the whole thread B) Also, not everyone is having such troubles...

Ah the scramble button, oh how i miss it!

Check members rides for update and pics. I dont think it has slowed the car, that is, once up and going. The car def handles much better, far more grip. Accel from a rolling start is slower, but not once up and going. I guess bigger diameter and slight weight all plays a roll... Anyhoo, check em: Need to slam it more, bring on the pedders coil overs! Artists rendition :D

Hey did you ask if the later 09 build or ZR's were any diff, as ive done exhaust and CAI and still no CEL

Got my 18" Work's fitted yesterday.... I cant believe how small they look for 18"!! Could fit 20"s in there!! And colour shot: Still working out if i like them or not...really need those pedders coil overs, it needs another 25mm drop. Like this: And this: whatchall think?

Hey hey, Fitted my 18" Works today, reasonably happy with them. Might end up painting the centers black..Im never bloody happy with anything!! Although a reasonably light rim, not forged tho, i can feel the extra weight that the car has to carry, thats for sure. Mind you i still had 2 of the old ZR rims in the car on the way home. I guess ill stick with them for now, but i might have to change my whole approach to the style of the ZR and go for forged lightweights, providing the weight loss is significant enough. I know its not a race car, but just as i was squeezing the extra balls out of it, the new shoes have slowed things down... pic tomorrow on my members ride page.. Maybe its my imagination, i guess time will tell..

Face-lift model is built from OCT 09 onwards. yeah, skanky rear end!! :D

Looking good man, i like the black on blue scheme. re fog surrounds, ive wondered about it too.. if i have time tonight ill do a quick photoshop for ya.

Heya man, just search for "illuminated corolla sills" using the search option, there is quite a bit of info on this site.. B)

I would say about 500km, i should have taken note but havent, but its been a hard 500km :) Re no light after exhaust and Injen, thats why im thinking down the ECU path... Maybe the ZR does have different software.. I think mine is a July build if that matters. Ill check tomorrow.

Apparently some older ECU's didnt match well with different/some MAF's, but i thought that problem was strictly a US thing... Still, you could be onto something there... Ahh, the variables!! :D Still no light on for me, and im floggin it hard now!! Well, harder than before..

Nice, good job! :)

Toyota are replacing the faulty head unit. Ive tried to pull some strings to get the facelift setezza, so hopefully that pans out. I cant see the point of replacing the unit with another of the same, the same fault prone unit. Man i hope i get the facelift unit....

That was my next thought exactly. Kinda what i was thinking with the build year, maybe a certain batch of Mafs was more sensitive to the resonance of the Injen. Or at least, the resonance is disturbing those particular sensors. Another variable to throw in the mix... :)

Thanks Dwee, i forgot yours was playing up too! So we can eliminate the year issues. Thats one down. There was noticeable oil in the bottom of my pod when i installed it. I instantly thought the filter was over oiled. Luckily i still havent had the light issue, but im expecting it ;) Also notice CRC do a specific MAF cleaner, if anyone is interested, but im sure normal contact cleaner works just as well. Oh, also, did everyone clean their piping and silicone hose before install? Mine was filthy (both the piping and the silicone) i thoroughly cleaned them out, and washed the silicone. Could also be other contaminants not just the oils. Im thinking metalic contamination too, such as fine particles.. Charlie has had an Injen longer than all of us.... Sorry for another Edit, Daryl, i dont think K&N submerged that MAF deep enough into the oil for starters, the MAF sensor is far deeper in the unit than that dip. But you never know.. Also, i would think different MAF would have different durability/ sensitivities too, i cannot see how a fully fowled up MAF can read no prob, as its common knowledge that MAF get dirty and dont 'read' properly. And what does "ran awkward for a few cycles" mean?? Not good enough for me... From evidence supplied by Charlie, i think he is right. Im willing to stand corrected tho....

Again, the oil contamination comes into play: Technical Description System Too Lean (Bank 1) What does that mean? Basically this means that an oxygen sensor in bank 1 detected a lean condition (too much oxygen in the exhaust). On V6/V8/V10 engines, Bank 1 is the side of the engine that has cylinder #1. Note: This DTC is very similar to P0174, and in fact your vehicle may show both codes at the same time. Symptoms You will more than likely not notice any drivability problems, although there may be symptoms such as a lack of power, detonation (spark knock), and/or a hesitation/surge on acceleration. Causes A code P0171 may mean that one or more of the following has happened: * The MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor is dirty or faulty. Note: The use of "oiled" air filters may cause the MAF to become dirty if the filter is over-oiled. There is also an issue with some vehicles where the MAF sensors leak the silicone potting material used to protect the circuitry. * There could be a vacuum leak downstream of the MAF sensor. Possible Solutions Possible solutions include: * In the vast majority of cases, simply cleaning the MAF sensor does the trick. Consult your service manual for it's location if you need help. I find it's best to take it off and spray it with electronics cleaner or brake cleaner. Make sure you are careful not to damage the MAF sensor, and make sure it's dry before reinstalling * Inspect all vacuum and PCV hoses, replace if necessary * Check for a dirty fuel filter and proper fuel pressure OBD-II Trouble codes and another from a Yaris forum: Id say the most likely cause is the MAF sensor. Especially if there is a aftermarket intake. Oiled intakes such as K&N have been known to contaminated sensors. The oils get sucked on and stick to the sensor. Then the dirt sticks to the oils and builds up on the sensitive wire. Im still thinking oil build up issues. Thats exactly what Charlie told me right from the start, a clean with elect cleaner than its ok again, then its gets oiled again over time, cleaned - ok again. I see a pattern here. Maybe try cleaning again and get a non oiled filter. Easy way to find out if thats the problem. Also: In new models the airflow meter has 2 main group of sensors incorporated in a single unit , being one the IAT and the other the AIR FLOW METER , the IAT sits on the outside and looks like a big DROP of syrup , cleaning this will make no diference in relation to the code , now if you look closely at the unit ,look deeply inside and you will see 2 little grey (car models will differ in color) zener diode "look alike" sensors These are the actual A/F meter components ,These are the ones to clean if you want to get rid of these problem, Similar MAF but not the same as ours

By wrong postition what do you mean? the angle? Like i said, i still have no problem (touch wood). Can you guys please confirm or deny that this problem is limited to 08 ZRE models? Just so i know im barking up the wrong tree or not.

Still got 2 pair. BG Pete was interested in a pair, so that leaves only one pair for others if BG Pete finalizes his order. I can get more if people want them, like i said, im not making anything off them, i might be able to get them a bit cheaper if i can get my contact to reduce the box size, it was freakin huge for just 3 pair. Typical Japs tho, pack stuff soo well. But i wont order more till these sell. Aries, sorry, yeah pretty easy to install, took about 2 hours, but most of that time was getting the front bar off(well, the bloody push screws in the wheel well) and 1 think i could do it in an hour now. It comes with 6 page instructions that are very clear..