CONROD

Could be a number of reasons, LENGTH, UNIVERSAL SIZE, I will check out the propshaft section in the work shop manual and see what it says

Who informed you of this ? Text book mechanic on Face book or someone with a bit of credibility !

mate this is for a Toyota Tundra probably the same. If you already have new ones, have a squiz and see what clips is there on them

Didn't think 1985 models had a check engine light,

I put a 30amp inline blade fuse(waterproof ) in the power supply wire from the (battery to terminal 30 on the relay )and also a 10 amp inline fuse in the wire from the RED wire on the back of the headlight plug to terminal 86 on the relay.(this wire triggers the relay so if you are running a switch run it from the red wire on the back of the headlight plug to the switch and back to terminal 86 on the relay,and as you can see the relay earths out through RED/Yellow wire on back of headlight plug when lights are on high beam, hope this helps you out mate, cheers CONROD Terminal 30--------Battery pos Terminal 86-------RED WIRE on back of Headlight-- via dash switch if you wish to turn off ( Protect with inline fuse as close to headlight as possible) Terminal 85------RED/YELLOW wire on back of headlight Terminal 87-----Driving Lights/Light bar Feed Wire If you put the lead of your test light on the POSITIVE terminal of your battery and probe the RED/YELLOW wire with your lights on low beam you will notice that it wont light up as it is live (able to confirm this by putting the lead of your test light on the negative terminal of your battery,then when you flick it to HIGH beam the RED/YELLOW wires become earth/negative. Test light will illuminate when lead of test light is put on Positive terminal and wires back probed Here you go mate, Follow above as this is details you were supplied with Many Moons ago, all due care given BUT NO responsibility accepted if it goes pear shape as I,m not the one doing the work. AS I said I recently hooked up my little workmate 2001 as it shares the same positive switching, Cheers mate have a good day, Conrod Use the search Function mate, you made reference back then, also another member ( SPUTNIK ) hooked his up and provided details also in relation to wiring

No,No don't give up mate I not long ago hooked up a LED Light Bar to my 2001 work mate using the same wiring diagram I posted years ago, If you cant track down the post with diagram I will have a squiz and let you know, once you see it and understand the principle of how positive becomes earth on high beam its really simple, Cheers mate

Hi mate, you still trying to sort this issue out, you were on here 2 years ago back in 2017 regarding same issue

If its a 2010 model it wont have a cable its electric

Yeah bud as HIRO said the 106.1 is 4x4 related

Have a read https://www.carsguide.com.au/car-advice/q-and-a/kluger-with-a-clunk-in-the-front-steering-7768

Id say its similar to killing off algae in a swimming pool, need to give it the initial shock treatment the maintain the cleanliness, By the way Supercheap have 20-60% off store wide tomorrow Saturday 20/7/19

This is the one I grabbed mate when on special

Like everything mate they quote THEIR product is the ants pants, honestly I wasn't after any more grunt, used it mainly to keep fuel clean being a Common Rail, Big Big $$$$ if you happen to pick up sh*t / water in the fuel, that's why I fitted a Pre filter to compliment the original, Got a good size bottle of Fuel Doctor when it was on special @ Super Cheap and only requires something like 25ml to a tank cheers Conrod

Ive been throwing in a 50ml bottle of this in my new Triton on a regular basis https://www.flashlube.com/en/products/diesel-fuel-conditioner.html Get it at Supercheap for a good price when on special, they also have it in 50ml bottles $5 to pop in a tank of diesel

Cant understand why people buy a car based on what other people say looks better, isn't it what you want, as your the one paying for it

Do what I did put a nice slim line Light bar on,

Have you Double checked ALL the fuses Especially those inside behind the Lower Cowl, pull each one and check mainly int acc, dome lamp anything that related to inside

You can spin it out either direction, as its not physically attached to the speedo needle, but on reinsertion, you can also turn it either way, the majority you will be feeding it in by hand anyway as you need to apply the lube, ( Lube and turn, Lube and turn ) but when you are almost fully home turning it Anti-clockwise will allow your speedo to register speed, slow speed on your drill is all that's required, once its home having it on high speed will allow you to check if its smooth, Another tip, with your bonnet open feed the speedo cable end that you removed back up through the engine bay, removing it off its retaining clips so the whole cable assembly is up where you can stand up and perform the removal and re-assembly of the inner, save rooting around underneath and allows you to hold it more or less in a straight line ( If you ever have the opportunity to get a speedo pulled apart, they have a small cylindrical drum which spins around whats looks to be a magnet and the faster the drum spins it draws the needle to register speed ) As I,m not the one doing the job mate,no responsibility taken as Im only advising you of the way I went about it

This might help you out mate, I was having similar noise in my little 2001 workmate, and what I did was unscrew the speedo cable as you already have done, then put my cordless drill on the end of the INNER cable. Spinning the cable SLOWLY using the cordless, I then slowly drew the cable out, which came out very easy, once out I cleaned it, I then REINSERTED it using VASALINE smeared over the inner in a manner so it lubed it without clagging the sh+t out of it, That was 12 mths ago and its been smooth and quiet ever since You will know when the inner is fully home when the speedo starts to register ( if you have the drill turning the right direction ) and the gearbox end will sit where it did before you started. Its dead set easy to do and if the cable only lacks lube, saves hours rooting around pulling dash apart to unclip it off the back of instrument cluster, if it comes out and its knackered you know for certain youre up for another speedo cable, Hope I didn't bore you ranting on, Cheers CONROD

Dead set easy to rule out the speedo cable, just unscrew/ disconnect it off the g/box and tie it up out of the way and go for a spin around the block

Check the front camera, it might only be a clear plastic protective sleeve on the camera eye used for protection whilst transporting and that black you see is probably the tab you pull on to remove it

Give these blokes a buzz, there in Cardiff ( Newcastle ) https://www.uniquecarsandparts.com.au/directory/listing.php?id=6536

I know this has been shown before, but I still cant get over how neat this bloody thing is

Sounds like the camshaft timing is out, like the timing is retarded, its out by a tooth or two