Tony Prodigy

G'day Bill and welcome to the forum. My condolences for your loss mate. It's hard losing a loved one. I hope your stay here can bring some cheer to you. You'll make a friend in all of us especially TommyM, who is foremost authority on the Avalon. He will be able to guide you with most of your Avalon related questions. You'll find him in the Avalon section. Look for him there if you have any questions. We will all try and assist, of course, but Tommy is the man. All the best and take care

Hi Krystal and welcome to the forum. Noises and clunks can be tricky to find and it's more trial and error when trying to locate the source. It's very difficult to diagnose without being in the car and experiencing the sound. Even at idle you say. What I would do, and that's just me, is run the vehicle, make sure it's in park with the handbrake firmly on, and have someone look underneath to feel and look around and hope the clunk reveals itself. It's obviously something that is induced when the engine is running so having it up on a hoist with the engine off (as the mechanic may have done) may be fruitless. Just a thought. I hope you figure it out. Let us know how you go. Cheers

Hello and welcome to the forum Michael. You made a wise choice purchasing a Camry. I'm sure it will give you years of trouble free motoring. Just out of interest, what oil service interval does your service book call for ?? Do you have the V6 ?

Hello Rose and welcome to the forum. Lovely to have you on board. It must be exciting living in Japan. That is one place I would love to see some day. The forum is open to everybody and it's nice when we have international members join. I hope your stay here is pleasant and filled with the knowledge you seek. Take care and stay safe Regards Tony

You're most welcome Reg. Typically the rears will be a bit cheaper because the discs and pads are physically smaller hence the price difference. I'd avoid machining the discs, only if you have to but new discs are way better and safer. Pedal feel will be better and will keep cooler. Never heard of IBS, but any of those brands on Ebay are fine. DBA are another good brand. I have those on my Aurion and are just as good as OEM. Let us know how you go. Cheers

If you can drive it forward, you could limp it to the service centre. Drive it when the roads aren't so busy to avoid angry looks. Use your hazard lights and keep left.

Don't let all those numbers confuse you. All you need to look for is the manufacturer recommendation. If it's designed to fit the 4AFE engine, then it will fit regardless. Here's a few to get you going. Both high quality aftermarket. Dayco Brand Gates

Hi Reg, I feel your pain. As simple as replacing pads and rotors sound, there is a bit of physicality to it and some level of production. I'm assuming the prices for each front and back would include new rotors/pads/labour ? If so, then it's not an unreasonable amount, but if you have a dig around on Ebay for the relevant parts and see where it lands. Ask them how much their labour rate is too. If there are no underlying issues, the job can be done in a couple of hours at a shop. I would also assume that the job will include a full fluid flush too, which I highly recommend if your brakes haven't been tended to for years. The fluid should be flushed at least every two years otherwise your brake system will deteriorate quickly not to mention the safety aspect. Here's what I found that might interest you. Fronts https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Front-Bendix-Brake-Pads-and-Disc-Rotors-Set-for-Toyota-CAMRY-ACV36R-MCV36R-02-06/263428417168?hash=item3d558ea690:g:cTYAAOSwTmJatSkS Rears https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Rear-Brake-Pads-and-269mm-Disc-Rotors-for-Toyota-CAMRY-2-4L-ACV36R-3-0-2002-06/264707792380?epid=11005824726&hash=item3da1d05dfc:g:HzgAAOSwDQden7a6 I wish you all the best mate

I'm pretty sure all 50 series have the same transmission regardless of year. Don't quote me but I suspect it is correct.

Probably around 3k or less I'd say. It's an engine out job so it's how many labour hours to pull the engine out, swap trannies then install and commission. $1500 for labour is reasonable. They'll have it for at least two days depending how fast they work. You can find transmissions from wreckers on Ebay for $1500. If you decide to part the car out I may be interested in some bit. Is it a stock ATX ?

Wow ! That is very bad. Did he say if the fluid pressure switch & torque converter pressure switch solenoid can be replaced ? This is why I want you to ask a transmission specialist. You may be able to salvage it otherwise you may need a replacement trans. I have seen them sell for around $1500 on Ebay. The prices have come down a lot. They used to sell for 3-4k. Does your car have a tow bar ? When did you buy it ? Had it long ? Do you know it's history ?

I would speak to an auto transmission specialist before you do anything. I won't discount what the mechanic said, but I'd definitely get a second opinion. When you mean "burnt oil" how bad is it. I know transmission fluid does go brownish red with time but if it has a distinct burnt smell then that car has had the life thrashed out of it or it's been used for towing. Does it have a tow bar ?? Did you get a fluid sample ? If so can you post it so we can see ? For a car that's only done 120,000 kays that transmission should be in much better condition than that. It's been abused for sure.

Hi Richard, Info like that is always difficult to find unless someone here has specifically done one themselves and have documented it. Online searches can also prove fruitless, so what I would do is reach out to the car stereo installers and ask them if they have a diagram. I'm sure someone will because they'd need to know pinouts too so they don't blow stuff up. Good luck with your search.

Did you check the sliding pins in the calipers ? The grease may have hardened causing the caliper to bind. You say it happens on all four which is strange but still possible if all are of the same age and use. When you replaced the brake pads, did you see some excessive wear on one side of the pads ? Did you do a proper brake fluid flush ? Old fluid carries a lot of moisture and this can expand when hot and possibly cause the calipers to squeeze. Another thing to check is the rubber brake hoses and the master cylinder. Rubber brake hose could be internally delaminated and acting as a one way valve and the master cylinder would lock all four calipers if the piston doesn't retract. Also, booster push rod could be out of adjustment.

Without knowing the car's history and how it's been driven, at this point, it would be a likely scenario. The symptoms of your transmission issue points to low fluid pressure as a result of low fluid, but it could also be something else. This can be determined only and after the fluid level has been checked and corrected. This won't have anything to do with the transmission. The engine code can be deceiving, so it would need to be a process of elimination. I'd also be checking the individual spark plug coils too. One or more could be bad. If the mechanic has a decent diagnostic tool, he will be able to narrow down the issue/s. Sorry, but it's more a guessing game at the moment. The info you have now should help point you in the right direction.

For those Kays, it's not the transmission I'd be worried about, it's more that the oil being overdue is more concerning. You should be doing the oil service between 8 and 10 thousand, earlier if you can afford it for best protection. Don't follow the stupid book service. It's a trap and your engine will sludge up over time and cause more issues. 15k service intervals is ridiculous and I wish manufacturers would stop doing this. Regarding the transmission, something is going wrong in there and it has nothing to do with the current kays either, even if you're worried bout it being overdue. Overdue for oil yes, transmission, no. As Ashley (campbeam) mentioned, you need to check for transmission fluid leaks first. If you find a leaky, weepy pan, then this is most likely the culprit. Do you have a trolley jack and some axle stands handy ? We're not sure what level of DIY you are so asking you to check certain things may not be feasible here. THe U660E transmission is pretty reliable and we rarely get transmission related issues here unless it's been the result of abuse or some software glitch. The symptoms you describe do point to lack of fluid pressure but you will need to do a fluid level check first up then go from there.

How many Kays are you driving in those 2 days would give a better indication if it's using far more than the average. Certainly, if your transmission is misbehaving, this can contribute to fuel consumption by virtue of the transmission slipping and jerking as you mentioned. It is also possible, you may have leaky injectors. I think you should try and get it to a reputable mechanic if you are not able to or capable of basic maintenance. Have them check the fuel system from back to front for any leaks etc and have the transmission serviced. The U660E transmission doesn't have a dipstick. Most manufacturers are going this way nowadays. The car needs to raised up on a level platform and you need to follow a set procedure in order to accurately check fluid level. It's not straight forward but is possible if you have the time and some basic tools. Here's a video that will familiarise you with this procedure.

You're most welcome Amal. I hope it's good news from here on. All the best

If the plastic one is still ok just keep using it and keep the spare for when you really need it.

No Sir, I'm not. I don't have a Kluger. Thanks for asking

Ouch !! Brings back memories when I stupidly missed the little bit of info on the oil filter housing which stated to tighten it to 25nm not 2500nm !! But for Toyota service to miss this is pretty bad. I'm suspecting the apprentices may be the ones doing this without the proper guidance. I went through a few removal tools as mine was stuck on good and proper. My Plan B was buying a new Genuine Filter housing in case I had to mutilate it, but thankfully the OMIK removal tool saved the day. Remember this Thread ? https://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/57498-aurion-oil-filter-housing-removal/

I had to download a program to view those pics. Sheesh. Talk about going the long way around. Uploading JPEGs would've been easier. The oil level was low on the before shot no ? Then a bit lower after. I suspect that engine has had the oil changed according to the stupid log book service and the oil rings are gummed up as a result. I reckon it's got sludge issues. Needs a few short interval oil changes with 5w-30 and see what happens. What do you reckon Ash ?

Hi Cian, I believe you will have to cut the lower section of the bumper. The ones I have seen they all have the cut and there is a plastic bezel trim piece to hide the cut and make it look neater. I'm not sure if there is an aftermarket tow bar that hangs that low otherwise it will bottom out when reversing out from a slight incline. Most aftermarket tow bar makers will try and copy the factory one anyway for best and easier fitment. Here are some 40 series Aurions on Carsales.com with towbars. 2010 Toyota Aurion Touring Auto MY10-SSE-AD-797528 - carsales.com.au.html2009 Toyota Aurion Sportivo ZR6 Auto-OAG-AD-19503667 - carsales.com.au.html2011 Toyota Aurion AT-X Auto MY10-SSE-AD-7030338 - carsales.com.au.html2009 Toyota Aurion AT-X Auto-SSE-AD-6037719 - carsales.com.au.html

Hi Rob and welcome to the forum. I would have to say that if you're getting a plastic burning smell it could be attributable to something around the exhaust manifolds or your cooling system. It won't be wiring. You mention that it only happens for a few minutes when starting for the first time. Something around your exhaust is settling on the metal and is burning off more than likely. Can't say for sure what it is, but if you are able to get in there and have a good look around with a bright led light before you start it up to see if there is some kind of residue or possibly coolant or maybe even something plastic close enough to hot metal. Good luck and keep us posted. Cheers

I recently purchased these in the event I need to probe through the CAN Bus system for any electrical gremlins should they arise. If you know what voltages you are looking for these handy probes will make life much easier to fault find and diagnose issues. Normal multi meter probes are way to thick and cannot be used. You WILL need these little guys. I prefer these to the pinch probes as they are not invasive. The fine tip simply slides into the pin on the socket under the rubber seal whereas the pinch probes actually cut into the wire's insulation which I do not like. It leaves a nick in the wire and the potential for contamination. Comes in a handy kit. You can find these on Ebay of course. The last picture gives you an idea. Not the exact tip type but similar.