Tony Prodigy

Hey G. Don't worry, they are both Toyota Genuine Part numbers. The 04125-YZZA1 part number is the replacement for the 04152-31090.

It is a very fiddly job as you may remember my debacle when trying to do mine a while back. Unclipping and reclipping at together can be a bit daunting but it's amazing how strong the plastic is and its ability to flex. I could swear I was going to break mine I took a whole heap of photos during each stage of disassembly so my forgetful brain doesn't miss anything. In the end I ended up having to do it twice because the numbnuts selling the fuel filter kit for 50 series supplied the wrong part. It was designed for the ASV50 Camry NOT the GSV50 Aurion. You 40 series owners are lucky in that there is an abundant supply of alternative fuel filter kits, but for the 50 series it's either Toyota Stealership or Coopers. I believe Coopers (Wesfil) have the sole manufacturing rights for this particular make of vehicle. I several stocked up plenty on fuel filters as the price was too good to ignore. I have seen one other seller selling them for twice what I paid so I think I got a pretty good deal. Might wait a little longer before tackling this again. Car seems to be running just fine on the original filter. Thanks for the post Ash

I totally agree. 2020 is a year I'd rather forget. There were some good moments but mostly with the CCP virus, it has definitely changed how we live. You will be pretty busy with that list and it will bring you much satisfaction I'm sure. Are those headlights aftermarket items ? They do look tired even after a good polish they looked too yellowed to keep. I'd hunt down some clean OEM headlights and prep those. Polish them up nicely then apply your favourite sealant, or if you have, ceramic coat them for the ultimate protection. Regarding the interior, I'd even remove the front seats to be able to get right in there and clean underneath including the seat tracks. You may need to relube the tracks too. Have fun with it. Cheers

Ok cool. I guess that's the signature colour for King Springs. Are the springs noticeable ? I say this because I don't like the bright colours standing out. Much prefer all black under there. Interesting that. So is there a particular position the spring needs to be in or it doesn't matter ?

Edited the title for extra clarity. So I went back out this morning (in the rain... carport isn't too far off..) and completed the adjustment and other minor checks while I had the wheels off. I also gave all the rubber bushings and brake hoses the 303 Aerospace treatment to keep them supple. To get the rotor off the axle you have to use a 13mm bolt that threads into any of the two tapped holes in the drum. Simply ratchet it in and the rotor will pop off. After having another look, you cannot make the adjustments to the toothed wheel via the inspection hole in the drum part of the rotor. You have to have the rotor off to do this and as mentioned, you need to be careful not to dial too much out as the rotor will not go back on. There's a bit of trial and error here. I think I did ok though. Reassembled the brake calipers and washed the wheels in and out and gave them a hit with P&S Beadmaker in and out also. I also gave the centre caps a thorough clean and seal, then metal polished the wheel nuts. P&S metal polish for those too. Great product as it not only polishes, but also puts a layer of protection too. Although the car is dirty and it not making sense to wash it during our wet spell, I had to wash the front wheels to make it uniform lol.. It would've looked silly otherwise. I haven't washed it in a couple of months and the fronts were black. Thankfully the sealant I put on the wheels held up well and washing that brake dust off was a breeze. I'm using the P&S Brake Buster wheel cleaner as well as the Nextzett formula. Both excellent wheel cleaners.

Nice to see you tick those boxes Ash. Fiddly job indeed but glad to see it all worked out well. I would say that they were definitely due for replacement looking at your before/after data. Old ones had some sag for sure. Car should feel more planted and less wallow in the front. Fuel filter is also a PIA too. Glad it didn't give you too much drama. By the way, are the Sachs painted black or some other colour ? I don't much like having those fancy red or yellow things protrude from angle of sight. OEM looks just fine.

I agree. Impact sockets definitely have a place in your war chest. Saved me a few time when I had to remove extra tight nuts (not by me lol), where standard sockets would slip. Impact sockets provide excellent purchase without the fear of rounding off a nut. That sucks.

No better time to get incentivised Ash. You are going to love the beading effect after the ceramic coating. If you think the rain-x one was good, wait till you do the ceramic job. Don't forget to treat the wiper blades too. Clean them really well until you virtually have no black rubbing off then right at the end give these a wipe over with product too. Looks like I've rubbed off on you when I hear you mention "Starting to notice all those minor imperfections which will need to be eliminated." Look forward to the follow up.

Pretty stupid or lazy of Toyota to use the particular style of toothed wheel with this rotor and the inspection hole doesn't enable enough clearance for the screwdriver blade to make decent contact, and that is when you are going through the large hole on the axle flange. I suspect the rotor is a carry over or part of the Global Architecture of the Camry variants. I watched a video on how to adjust the rear handbrake and in that video, the guy made it look too easy. Unfortunately for Aurion owners, the toothed wheel is ludicrously small compared to that of the Camry. Watch this and you'll see why.

Hi Gents, I'm not sure if the adjusters differ on the 40, but I had a go at adjusting mine this afternoon and for the life of me I couldn't get the damn flat blade screwdriver to reach the toothed adjuster wheel via the inspection/access hole on the drum section of the disc. I had to remove the caliper, then remove the rotor to expose the drum assembly and adjuster. The teeth on the adjuster are ludicrously tiny and it's painful to get it to turn. Is there a special tool for this ? I ended up just doing my best and I did manage to turn the adjuster a few times and then test fitting the rotor to check clearance. I overdid one side and couldn't get the rotor back on, so I wound it back in a bit. I didn't get any pics as it started raining, so I've left it on axle stands for the time being and will have another look at it in the morning. Frustrating afternoon.

As the other guys have mentioned. It may not be possible to see these extra feature lights turn on, even if there was a way to "force" them on, they may not light up because the wiring loom may not support those extra features if the particular model of Yaris doesn't have those features. The factory will not waste time, money or effort to enable certain indications in the cluster if they are not necessary for that particular model or options. Hope that makes sense.

TRD versions are different ?

I've been using beadmaker on my interior as well as the exterior. It's pretty versatile as a spray on sealant protector. Great stuff. Didn't know it could also work as an anti fog in the inner side of the windscreen though. Cool.

I'd get an original. Better fitment and you know it will work just as the factory intended. This one is an electric one if you're interested. Nice upgrade from a manual one and less likely to be subject to vandalism. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ANTENNA-AERIAL-1998-TOYOTA-CAMRY-SK20-WAGON-ELECTRIC-08-97-08-02-97-98-99-00/402439970999?hash=item5db34aa0b7:g:ABoAAOSwXS5fYmHS

Merry Christmas from your Pal Tony. May you all be filled with the Christmas Spirit and plenty of good food. All the best everyone !

The only saving grace was the club discount. The rest was a case of pffft.. Very disappointing Supercheap Auto

Nothing to make me raise my eyebrows. I got myself a 1lt of Nulon 5W-30 to accompany the odd ball 5lt to make it a 6lt. Don't need more oil but for $52 for the Nulon, It's not good value compared to my previous purchases at $38. So that's disappointing. Also the SCA tyre shine is usually $10.99 on sale at $7. This time around they jacked it up to $17.99 down to $12.99 !! Big deal. That's pretty sneaky of them. Some detailing stuff was cheaper than normal but still not enough to get me excited. Some stuff is advertised and on sale but no stock. Go figure..

Unfortunately I didn't bother to check pre sale prices but that is a kick in the guts when they sneakily jack up the prices THEN apply the discount. Seems to be the standard these days. It would be good to send them an email and ask for an explanation. Preferably when composing the email one can include screenshots for proof. It's good to shame companies every now and then to keep the bastards honest..

Not in this case. The oil cooler pipes simply move oil from one part of the engine to the other so there is no need for any flexible hosing. Toyota engineers either got lazy when designing it or they thought hot oil would be ok to circulate via rubber hoses. Either way, it was a dumb mistake. Air conditioning is different in that several components of the system are not on the engine but on the chassis and the need for flexible hosing is vital for routing and connectivity. The oil cooler pipe rubber hoses degrade pretty quickly with the extreme heat cycles and they will eventually split hence the new and "upgraded" fix. It should've been a full metal pipe affair from the beginning. Here are some videos to help illustrate all this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ygNboPlS-HQ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oA018dMgK44 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jO0OcZijRhE

Hi Gents, SCA are having a sale starting from 2pm today. 30%-50% off categories if anyone needs anything. https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/boxing-day?j=4664024&sfmc_sub=822401467&sub=206595815_SCA01_CRP&l=333_HTML&u=97981229&mid=6010680&jb=2314&utm_source=email-subscriber&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=au-sca-2021-wk26-PreODS

Can I ask if you've checked your engine for sludge ? The 2GR-FE is a prime candidate for this if proper oil service isn't followed. If you're doing 5k annually, then I'd also replace the oil at this same time or less. Frequent short trips degrades the oil faster and this could have ramifications for the VVTi system. Also have a read of these

Hi there and welcome to the forum. Sorry to hear about your situation. I know car purchase can be a minefield and prove frustrating. Unfortunately it is buyer beware whenever buying anything and you must do your due diligence, which appears you have. I'd never trust seller advertising spiels. "Sound mechanical condition" doesn't ring true considering what your mechanic has supposedly found. Before getting ahead of yourself, I'd get a second and third opinion about the issues you mention. Oil leaks are pretty obvious and should be addressed. These can be done very easily. If you are somewhat mechanically minded, you could even do these yourself with minimal tools. Youtube is a blessing in this modern age and anyone can do a rocker cover gasket and O ring on the dizzy. Just mark the dizzy position with a permanent marker before removing and swap out the o'ring. Easy. As for the lower control arms, for a car that has supposedly done 154K it seems unlikely these could be bad, hence my suggestion for getting 2nd opinion. Some mechanics are crooks and it's possible that one you crossed could be desperate for work. My wife had the same model Corolla with over 240K and it was fine so it's possible yours are ok. Did they show you any proof they were worn ? Does the car drive strangely ? Are the front tyres wearing unevenly ? Do you have any tools, jack or anything that could allow you to do some DIY repairs ? Given your financial situation, I'd be more inclined to start learning how to fix my own rather than rely on others. Control arms ( if they are in fact worn) isn't a hard job and can be done easily as a DIY. By the way, you don't need to re post as a new thread if you need to add more info. You can edit your original post by clicking on the 3 dots top right of field. I wish you all the best with this and hope your situation improves. Keep your chin up mate

Yep, XU20 platform would be different to the XU40. Not sure how 245's would look on the 1st Gen Kluger. Hopefully the O.P can upload some images.

I would've assumed that whatever Toyota wheels Toyota put on any Kluger would all be interchangeable. Probably better to have got a set from the same Gen car but from a higher spec model for example. If the current combo works then happy days. I wasn't aware of suspension changes on 2nd Gen Vehicle. Probably to accommodate the larger tyre section to keep with the rest of the competition.

Not an ideal situation Dominic. I know where you're coming from. The best way is to spray directly to the tyre and let it soak in as opposed to the wipe on method. If you have the time to wait overnight I'd encourage this. The only downside of direct application is the overspray on the rims. Not a deal breaker but will require wiping after spraying the tyre shine. Wipe on method for me usually entails two applications for a decent soak. I also suspect that the Bowdens product is non silicon based. Make sure you shake the bottle well before you use it. Pretty expensive stuff.