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The STUPID thread


theDefiant1

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Another stupid question about something stupid to do.

If you go to the track to get your 1/4 mile times, how do you start, hummm, with an AUTOMATIC???? :blink:

Really depends on the car. You can depending on how much power you are dealing with and what your tires are like, you may be able to get away with simply holding the brake with your left foot and having your right foot ready to floor the accelerator. Then when the third yellow light illuminates, you lift your left foot while stomping on the accelerator as quick as you can. That would be the simplest way, but it would not lead to the best times. To get those, you need to experiment.

For the Aurion, I had written u some pointers. To give you some idea of how you can experiment, have a read of the following:

For the Aurion, I will tell you that once you are ready to go, just take your foot off the brake and push that accelerator down as fast as you can. From a standstill like that, you don't need to worry about breaking traction because you will be quite surprised at just how sticky the track surface is. After that, you just keep your foot down and your car aimed in a straight line down the lane. Once you pass the lights at the end of the lane, you can then proceed to slowing down. Firm application of the brakes for pulses of a couple of seconds each would be the best way to do this in combination with down-shifting in 'S' mode. Once you have slowed down and have reached the end, you just follow the road around to return back to the start again and you can collect your time slip to see how you went.

And that's basically it. You have then completed one run down the drag strip and you can now give it another shot to try and get a better time.

You can either work on improving your reaction time or your ET... or both. Once hint with getting a better reaction time; aim to get your foot off the brake and foot down on the accelerator the moment that the third yellow light illuminates. Due to your own reaction time combined with the delay in getting the car to start rolling, your car would end up leaving the line rather close to when the light is green without leaving too early.

For improving your ET on the Aurion, it comes down to getting the perfect balance of stalling it up (applying throttle while your left foot is on the brake). Getting the right combination can vary depending on the track and weather conditions, so there is a lot of experimenting. A good starting point here is to stall it up to about 1400-1500RPM, and then the moment you are ready to leave, take your left foot off the brake while applying throttle gradual at first then as fast as you can. It's hard to explain this one, but it will click when you try it. It may or may not work for you, but it gives you the opportunity to learn how it reacts and from there on, you can work on refining your technique.

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Great Daryl, thanks for the info.

Actually I'm talking about a standard Corolla, no mods or whatsoever. I've always wandered this, if you rev it or not, if you stall it ot not, if you floor it right away or if you do it gradually.

I clearly understand what you say about gradual at first and then fast, I've felt it sometimes. I think it might be related to the torque converter and the inertia.

I'll try those tips and see how it goes!

And one more question, should I live the Overdrive on or off? I have 3 speeds + overdrive tranny

Cheers

AB

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And one more question, should I live the Overdrive on or off? I have 3 speeds + overdrive tranny

No worries.

As for overdrive, may as well leave it on. It doesn't really matter unless you think you will rev out 3rd. Turning overdrive off is only going to limit you to the first 3 gears so if by the end of the 1/4 mile you are still in the rev range of 3rd, then having it on or off won't make any difference.

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Hey Daryl, Sorry for taking so long to respond!. We went out for a quick holiday (no cellphone, no computer, no television, just sun, sand and the sea)

I tried what you posted in a closed park and it was a little bit difficult to coordinate at first, but then it got really easy to lunch. I also tried to shift manually from L to D, but I didn't have much result. The Transmission knows better how to do it.

I still dont have a 1/4 mile time, but I think it's not going to be that bad...

Cheers and thanks for the tips!

AB

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In my members profile underneath my sig pic it says 0 warning points,what is this? and how do i start racking up some points :P

I didn't realise everyone could see their own count. In the past, this was usually hidden.

Well if you want to live on the edge, I can give you 9 of them :P

We don't use them so much these days like they used to be used. Most of the time we just issue a straight ban because the most common problem is spammers. I think it's mainly a combination of more relaxed standards plus the community is actually quite friendly as a whole.

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  • 2 weeks later...

ok, i parked my car at my parents for like 2 hours max under the sun. came back with a few bird droppings and then proceeded to high pressure spray them off the car at a jet wash. when i came back and wiped it dry, there were already bird dropping etchings on the car. WTF?

my stupid question is: are bird droppings really THAT acidic? or did my spray painter used shiet clear coat on my car. To my knowledge, he used D800 clear coat which apparently more durable and resistant to the environment than normal clear coat. I've googled the bird droppings to start etching into the clear coat after 1 week but not 1-2 HOURS? or did the sun accelerate the damage.

abit pi$$ed atm tbh

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  • 1 month later...

Cold(not yet started), or once the majority of oil has has returned to the sump for the most accurate readings.

Engine oil does not really expand or contract due to heat as much as automatic transmission fluid, so realistically as long as the oil is back in the sump the you will get a more accurate reading.

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Cold(not yet started), or once the majority of oil has has returned to the sump for the most accurate readings.

Engine oil does not really expand or contract due to heat as much as automatic transmission fluid, so realistically as long as the oil is back in the sump the you will get a more accurate reading.

Fortunately, the warmer the engine oil is, the faster it will drain back to the sump too :P (which is why it is recommended to do oil changes when the engine is warm)

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Just say, If i was looking for a new set of wheels. I'd be searching for 16" that are 4x100. But do i have to get the same offset as my stock wheel? if i found wheels that were 20 offset then what will it effect? and wat is the meaning of offset. Can never get a straight answer from anyone -_-

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  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...

I was removing the old amp and RCA cables from under the passenger seat of the car and noticed that the work shop that installed the amp, used some sort of glue/adesive to secure the wiring to the floor.

The glue looks similar to the material used in Dynamat. anyone know what sort of glue this is?

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back in the day when an electrical appliance momentarily sht it self, if you hit it, it started working again. how come that doesnt work anymore?

It's still worth a try. Maybe you aren't hitting it hard enough :P
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