Foss

I replaced the green bulb with a white one, so I could see my coins in a nicer light. Oh, and I plugged my iPhone charger into the lighter socket. Some hardcore modding right here.

Oh also, a bit of an update on how mine's holding up 18 months after the fact. Still good, but only with a lot of upkeep (even more than your exterior paint). Roughly once a month I have to go through the original polishing process (02B, Scratch/Swirl remover, polish, wax) as it starts to dull, especially the parts that regularly catch direct sunlight. Its also more susceptible to marks and swirls. I noticed this morning, too, that there appears to be some random marks that look like they may not polish out. Not sure if they're scratches from where people have bumped it with jewellery, bags, etc, or if its cracking from heat expansion/contraction of the plastic. More on this when I've had a closer look and had a chance to attack the area with some polish and elbow grease. Honestly, if I had my time over again, I'd give it to a good auto-body painter and do it in 2pak. 2pak is a hardened finish, so is more durable and less susceptible to damage, but the trade off is there's almost no margin for error. Unless you're appropriately equiped and can lay down a top notch 2pak finish, this guide still stands as the best way to paint it yourself. But if you don't mind dropping the cash, go see a professional for the best results.

Fellas those look top notch. Job well done. I love the red on those door panels!

Genuine all the way for me. My mechanic put a Ryco in my car once. He doesn't supply my filters anymore. It ran like a dog until next service, put genuine back in, problem solvered. And for the couple extra dollars for genuine, why would anybody even try aftermarket?

The stitching looks real, but is only there for visual effect and serves no functional purpose, the dash itself it made of soft plastic. Can't comment on the headrests, but I daresay they'd be adjustable, surely?

Welcome and good luck, but as Jeffy said, buy and sell rules, mate. Please, check 'em out next time before positing threads like this.

You're doing better than me SD, I just realised that I don't own any 'designer label' polos at all! I usually buy sporting brands (Nike, Adidas, etc) which I find wear fairly well, or if I'm only wearing it to lift, then cheapies off the department store racks. I've tempted to grab a couple of RLs, figured they must be good given their popularity, but if they wear that poorly, perhaps I'll just take my cash to Kmart. Perhaps this is one of those examples that people will pay a premium for branding and perceived quality over actual quality. Anyway, the more important question - collar up or collar down? ;)

Oh... and at everybody that doesn't like the letters for trim levels, Toyota USA have letters for their Camry range (LE, SE, etc.), Much of Holden and Ford's range use letters (even now, not just 20 years ago), as do Nissan, Mitsubishi, Mazda, etc. Hell, even when you get into the premium manufacturers, most of BMW's range use their 3 digit numbering system to denote model and engine capacity, and Audi don't really even have a system.

Matinj, how many other consumer-level manufactures have uniform model designations across their range? Ever heard of a Commodore CDX or a Cruze Omega? How about a Falcon LX, Territory XT, or Mondeo TX? Me neither. (Sh*t, how confusing is that - entry level Falcon is "XT" while Territory is "TX" - same letters, just swapped!) Also, your comment about having "a fancy sounding badge on the rump tells the world you are not driving a fleet car special"... it does - is says "Atara", in big letters that make the "Camry" badge pale into insignificance.

Ah, yes I forgot about 2 at each end. Good to hear yours didn't give you too much hassle. I put some anti-seize on them when I put it all back together again.

Not only clipped, there's 4 nut/bolts across the bottom as well. Be very careful as the bolt heads are square with sharp corners and if the nuts are seized to the bolts, the plastic brackets that hold the bolt heads in will give out before the nuts and will strip the plastic out of the brackets. If they're seized, it takes some rust loosener, small vice grips (to hold the tip of the bolt), an open-ended spanner (to turn the nut), and a lot of swearing and frustration.

This is only capped price servicing, no? Nothing to do with new car warranty?

I've got 6000k in lows and foggies and IMO they're better than stock. Even in the rain I don't have an issue, unless I'm doing 110km/h in a downpour, so I don't, because doing 110 in a downpour at night is just silly no matter what sort of headlights you've got.

Perhaps they won't be as massively overpriced as they are for Aurion/Hilux, because as there's no TRD model (is there?), there's no need to try and keep the parts exclusive to the people who bought that model.

From what I know, there were early plans for Aurion to be AWD, but Japan said no, so it didn't eventuate. IIRC, early protos may have been, so may not be that difficult to accommodate the RWD running gear after all. Fracken expensive exercise though.

Sale is no more. Admins, please close.

Wouldn't they be the same headers, given its pretty much the same car with different clothes? And therefore, what would be the point?

My first thought was GTC01 too. By the spacing of the spokes I'd say more likely that than J10.