DJKOR

I remember some time ago they had ones like that, but instead of an alarm beep as a warning, it would say things like "STAND AWAY FROM THE CAR" in a firm voice. Those ones were always funny to set off. Off-topic: Looks like the swear filter is not up to scratch.

You may be behind the person, but the camera still sees you:

I don't know whether he said that or not, but to me, him saying this problem can occur anywhere is like someone saying you could potentially die this week while going about your daily duties. It's possible, but it's not particularly likely.

Post boosting this way isn't going to help you sell your JZX100: Obviously you didn't do this properly: I shall quote the specific rule for you since you obviously need to read it again: You noobs are good at demonstrating how you still don't know how to read after being pointed in the right direction. Post boosting (even if you made informative posts... which you didn't), will not help you at all because you have to be a member for at least 3 months.

It's the glare that affects other drivers. Now most people jump into this argument saying that properly aimed fog lights should cause no more glare than the low beams alone. What they don't realise that it's not just direct glare (which you get from poorly aimed lights), but it is the indirect glare such as that which bounces from the surface of the road and other things. One way or another, it is an extra light source that is close to the other. Go into a room and turn on one light and see how bright it is. Then turn on another light and you will see it get brighter. You don't have to be staring at the light to see that it gets brighter. I'm not one of those guys against those that use their fog lights because of glare. I am against them because they try to justify why they drive with them in clear conditions despite the fact that the rules are set which state they are not to be used in clear weather conditions. It's like those that try to justify their speeding by saying they do so "safely". I can't care what you say, it's still against the law.

As said before, Backyard mechanics FTMFW!!! And in traditional Mick fashion, still no shoes

Pointing to this thread may not necessarily help. I tried it with one of the dealers before I went to fix it myself and they were saying things along the lines of "don't believe what you read on the internet". It's not actually a 'published' issue that they have as far as I'm aware so they won't fix it unless it gets to that point. When it gets to that point, you would have wasted quite a bit of time with them I would imagine. Just keep annoying them I guess. Another thing to be aware of is that this Superpro Bushing kit that is being fitted is an Australian made product. This would mean you would have to get the part imported there etc. I believe Tein make a similar one as well though, but once again, they would have to source it first.

No caption needed:

Try removing the bulb from there and see if it is placed properly. The bulb may have accidentally come loose from the socket in the process of removing the trim. Also, even though this probably isn't the cause since you have narrowed it down to the bulb area, check the connectors indicated in the following photo. The smallest one is the power for the bulb. It wouldn't hurt to check this just in case.

Speaking of which, I finally had one the other week. Damn it tasted great. You wish It's still mine. Bow down.

For a car without Smart Entry, there are ways in which you can have it work exactly how you want. The only issue here is patience and money. I could draw up plans on how to get this all working, but for the time and effort involved with no positive gain for myself (profit), it then becomes one of those situations where I will just say that it can be done if you were willing. For the Aurion with Smart Entry however, it has a way to get around the activation when your inside the car by utilising different key detection zones with proximity sensors placed in different areas of the car. It can tell whether you are inside the car or outside. It also deactivates that welcome light once you have turned the car on, which you can easily do as well if you create an aftermarket setup. Sure it may possibly be glitchy at times, but it's just one of those things you can't perfectly avoid. Changing it over so that it activates the fog lights (or any other accessory light) instead of activating the interior light would be relatively simple. You just need to add in a few more components and not run it directly off the existing wiring for the Smart Entry welcome light circuit. You also need to find the correct wires to tap into, which if you aren't that knowledgeable with it, can be a little difficult.

Exactly what Steven has said. You would need an active RFID transponder... or a high power (ie. not exactly wise) passive RFID transponder system to ensure this works for only the owner. TO make a system yourself with individual components, you would be looking at something like $400+ depending on how you want it configured. Not exactly expensive, but the Smart Entry guys already get this feature.

Good stuff Ash. I have a soft spot for white Sportivo Aurion's. Look forward to seeing this one progress.

It's about 6.1 litres for a drain and fill including filter. The way I did it was to get two bottles at first and supplied that to Toyota. They will use what they need and return the rest (about 3.9 to 4 litres). Then when it comes to the next oil change, you just have to buy another bottle. As you go through oil, you may get to the point of getting two bottles again next time you purchase, but it all works out.

Haha. Really? Why is that? And now you know why :P

The quality of the lamp basically. May be just a very slight inaccuracy in the design making the cold strike properties a little different. Nothing too much to be worried about. It won't wear your ballasts out quicker or anything. They are just doing their job in starting them up. One may just be slightly different to the other (different percentage of salts or slightly different electrode gap). If anything, your lamps may not last as long, but time will tell.

Hey Dave. That plastic cover is just basically that... cover. It is there to cover up the bare ends of the blower motor, fuse panel, etc. I think the best way to answer this is through photos. In the first photo, you insert the ends at the back according to the arrows (LOL at the unintentional male symbol), then the other circled parts clip into the cutouts in the glove box area like those circled in the second photo. The best I can do with the photos I have at the moment. Plus I can't take any more right now. Excuse the dirt. I cleaned it after I took the photos.

Ouch Lee. I feel sorry for your car... your head... well, that's another matter But yeah, hope everything gets sorted out well. Hail stone dents I hear can be easy to remove though.

They are quite simply called a "push-type retainer". There is no specific name any further than that unless you want to add its size to the beginning.

Welcome mate. She looks nice. Despite the language barrier, I get what you mean though.

^ LOL to that one. Just saw this one. Had me in stitches. I think the costume made it better: Please wait a few seconds for Video to Load!

Um... yeah: Please wait a few seconds for Video to Load!

I'd be so excited if I were you. Hehehe. As for the service, it is something to be concerned about, but also from my experience with this engine, if you have only missed the service by a few thousand k's or so, it will still be alright. just make sure the next service is a good one. These engines are surprisingly hardy.

One thing I learnt is that the Aurion likes to have some weight when going down the quarter. I tried once to see how it would go with a little more weight reduction and it just couldn't launch how I wanted. I also learnt that for some reason, having some extra humidity actually helped. It's all a task of finding what balance works with your car. The Aurion is pretty touchy with getting the launch just right.

Damn Vick... you're going to do my head in, LOL. When I was referring to other muffler, I meant as in if the Varex doesn't satisfy, then replacing them with something else. In terms of volume, the Varex is just about the same as any other sports/straight though muffler. You are best finding someone with any aftermarket exhaust on their Aurion to get an idea of how it will sound. Basically, it is still fairly quiet with or without a resonator believe it or not. When the engine is up past 3000RPM with WOT, adding an intake will add more volume than just changing the rear mufflers alone. Removing the resonator in addition to having rear mufflers will add more volume to the rear when revving. The exhaust will give you the low down noise and the intake will give you noise in the upper band. It's hard to explain mate with comparative figures. You are best looking for someone with something similar, or just diving in and making some changes.