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trentmeyer23

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Everything posted by trentmeyer23

  1. trentmeyer23
    I think 10W-30(possibly even 15W-40) will be sufficient as it more or less covers the temperature range required, whilst still being suitable for a newer engine.
  2. trentmeyer23
    The pump could very likely be on its last legs, might be worth having one ready to go in or having the money aside to get it done.
  3. trentmeyer23
    Should be able to get a custom one made fairly cheap, just consult local exhaust shops and tell them what you need.
  4. trentmeyer23
    I'd probably try and offload it; and put the money towards a cheap car to last your trip.
  5. trentmeyer23
    Should be 4 bolts and the wiring connector.
  6. trentmeyer23
    If new valve cover seals are not installed correct they will leak as well.
  7. trentmeyer23
    Welcome.
  8. trentmeyer23
    It had a pretty good run.
  9. trentmeyer23
    Welcome.
  10. trentmeyer23
    Have you checked fuses?
  11. trentmeyer23
    Yep, that's the one.
  12. trentmeyer23
    They also last far longer. Changing plugs on that rear bank is a royal PITA!
  13. trentmeyer23
    Get them to quote you on it. You are not obligated to have it done if you can't afford it.
  14. trentmeyer23
    I would be cautious of the diagnosis that you are given by Pedders.
  15. trentmeyer23
    It could very likely be a worn/leaking shock absorber, keep in mind that they should always be replaced as a pair, e.g. both fronts or both rears.
  16. trentmeyer23
    I would buy an SW20 as they are light, handle well and can make a solid amount of power. Also, please only create one topic per subject.
  17. trentmeyer23
    I would have a cylinder leak down test conducted and have the head re-inspected to see exactly how much sludge is sitting under the valve covers.
  18. trentmeyer23
    http://www.amayama.com
  19. trentmeyer23
    Please don't bump a post because you haven't gotten a response within 2 hours. Be patient. Have you looked at the lubrication section located at the rear of the Owner's Manual?
  20. trentmeyer23
    Give it time. They still do manual approvals and they are pretty slow.
  21. trentmeyer23
    If there was no issue before the HIDs, I would suspect there is an issue with kit or installation.
  22. trentmeyer23
    If it was fine before you washed it, then it wasn't straight after, there is a good chance that water got inside something it shouldn't of. This is most likely electrical components. I am not familiar with your exact engine bay and I am not certain where you focussed the water. This makes is very difficult to pinpoint exactly where the fault lies.
  23. trentmeyer23
    Check that water and degreaser has not gotten into areas that you washed, it may have washed out greases and oil; and have rusted or corroded components.
  24. trentmeyer23

    86 RECALL

    trentmeyer23 replied to KAA's topic in 86 Club

    Manual steering will still be retained at this time. https://www.productsafety.gov.au/recall/toyota-motor-corporation-australia-limited-toyota-86
  25. trentmeyer23
    Nulon Upper Engine Cleaner is a similar product to Seafoam. A cleaner combustion chamber will be a better burning one. Oil and carbon deposits will only lower the knock threshold and can potentially cause hot spots on components over time. Fuel economy should be slightly improved as the combustion chamber can achieve a cleaner burn.
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