The STUPID thread

[01 VEY]

Got a question... When i gave my car in for a service, they said the rotors need to be machined because they are a little warped. They suggested to do this before i put new pads in, which i'll have to soon, what consequences if any would arise if i were to put the pads in without machining the rotors??

U have to resurface the rotors everytime to eliminate the unevenness of the surface due to the transfer of the previous pad material. Just make sure the rotors aren't under the minimum thickness.

If u don't resurface/machine them, then u will get vibration when braking with the new pads

Also pads get a glazed surface which will cause them to squeal like little pigs when you step on the brake pedal.

[DJKOR]

U have to resurface the rotors everytime to eliminate the unevenness of the surface due to the transfer of the previous pad material. Just make sure the rotors aren't under the minimum thickness.

If u don't resurface/machine them, then u will get vibration when braking with the new pads

Not necessarily. Over my 2 Aurions, I have gone through 7 sets of brake pads and never machined the rotors and had no vibration issues due to that. It all depends on their condition to begin with.

[Kenshin X]

I'm speaking from personal experience yeah? I found that I needed to do it every time I changed them. But that was with OEM pads. Maybe I should try them with the pads I got on now.

[DJKOR]

I'm speaking from personal experience yeah? I found that I needed to do it every time I changed them. But that was with OEM pads. Maybe I should try them with the pads I got on now.

That may be the case for you, but in terms of answering the question you said:

U have to resurface the rotors everytime

Which is a misleading statement because you don't necessarily have to depending on the scenario.

[Kenshin X]

I'm speaking from personal experience yeah? I found that I needed to do it every time I changed them. But that was with OEM pads. Maybe I should try them with the pads I got on now.

That may be the case for you, but in terms of answering the question you said:

U have to resurface the rotors everytime

Which is a misleading statement because you don't necessarily have to depending on the scenario.

oppps, my bad... you dont have to but its recommended. and you MAY have vibrations when braking if u dont resurface them.

[mmm_sx6]

So what do you guys think? Just stick the new pads in there and see what happens? And if it does start to squeal or shudder, then machine the rotors?

Edit: reason im asking is because, i was quoted $250 for machining and was thinking, for that price, i just have to put in another $150 and get 2 x 4000 series DBA rotors or even 2000 series

Edited May 31, 2011 by mmm_sx6

[DJKOR]

It depends on it's current condition. Does it look even in colour from inside to out or can you see many rings, even with variation in colour? Also, when you rin your nail on it from inside to out, does it feel reletively smooth or can you feel a lot of ridges? If both these scenarios are minimal, then you may possibly get away with it as after a bit of driving, the pads will bed in and match the rotors.

But that's just as general advise. Each scenario can be quite different.

[Kenshin X]

So what do you guys think? Just stick the new pads in there and see what happens? And if it does start to squeal or shudder, then machine the rotors?

Edit: reason im asking is because, i was quoted $250 for machining and was thinking, for that price, i just have to put in another $150 and get 2 x 4000 series DBA rotors or even 2000 series

if thats the price for machining then just get the brand new ones. that way, u know how the car is driven and control the way the rotors and pads wear down.

i just machine mine to avoid squealing and noise after changing pads/tracking. but remember if u decide not to either change the rotors or machine them. and then u decide later, labour will double-up. imo do it once and do it right to save the hassles of bringing it back again

[Synthetic05]

Tonight this car infront of me took forever to turn right at a busy intersection, finally get through and i lift past him and turn into his lane. He didnt like it and came up close behind me. I brake for the roundabout and go through... he goes massive sideways and over corrects. Stupid driver suprised he didnt hit the gutter

[Azazel]

What do you think would be faster in a straight line, in uncontrolled conditions, amateur drivers, standard traffic lights, from 0-80km/h: a bog standard Toyota Corolla Sportivo with worn tyres or a Ford Focus XR5 with new 18's and unknown mods?

[DJKOR]

What do you think would be faster in a straight line, in uncontrolled conditions, amateur drivers, standard traffic lights, from 0-80km/h: a bog standard Toyota Corolla Sportivo with worn tyres or a Ford Focus XR5 with new 18's and unknown mods?

Based on specifications alone, both cars would hold a close race. If anything, the XR5 would be faster based on figures alone. The Sportivo comes out with a power-to-weight ratio of 117.6kW/tonne (166kW/1442kg) whereas the XR5 is 115.1kW/tonne (141kW/1224kg) however the XR5 has an extra 140Nm of torque from a much lower RPM which can help push it along with a bit more force. That said, you would probably be looking at a difference of only up to around a second though, which when comparing car distances, is not a large gap.

Things like worn tires (provided they are not at the point that they are at a defectable tread depth) may not make much of a difference once you manage to launch provided you don't have insane torque levels.

[Kenshin X]

Tonight this car infront of me took forever to turn right at a busy intersection, finally get through and i lift past him and turn into his lane. He didnt like it and came up close behind me. I brake for the roundabout and go through... he goes massive sideways and over corrects. Stupid driver suprised he didnt hit the gutter

is that a question? maybe more suited for "spotted section"?

[Azazel]

What do you think would be faster in a straight line, in uncontrolled conditions, amateur drivers, standard traffic lights, from 0-80km/h: a bog standard Toyota Corolla Sportivo with worn tyres or a Ford Focus XR5 with new 18's and unknown mods?

Based on specifications alone, both cars would hold a close race. If anything, the XR5 would be faster based on figures alone. The Sportivo comes out with a power-to-weight ratio of 117.6kW/tonne (166kW/1442kg) whereas the XR5 is 115.1kW/tonne (141kW/1224kg) however the XR5 has an extra 140Nm of torque from a much lower RPM which can help push it along with a bit more force. That said, you would probably be looking at a difference of only up to around a second though, which when comparing car distances, is not a large gap.

They're pretty much the numbers I came up with power to weight wise, the XR5 is a good 200kgs heavier.

I have it on good authority they're actually pretty close, probably would come down to the driver.

[Spillzee]

Now People. ( mods) Whats the chance of getting a quick link put to this www.urbandictionary.com at the top of the page, so us older guys don't have to ring up a teenager to find out what FULLY HEKTIC is. He told me this web page will help us.

[Azazel]

Now People. ( mods) Whats the chance of getting a quick link put to this www.urbandictionary.com at the top of the page, so us older guys don't have to ring up a teenager to find out what FULLY HEKTIC is. He told me this web page will help us.

I believe it's a reference to a skit on The Footy Show (NRL). A 'stereotypical' doof doof listening Bulldogs fan.

It may or may not be amusing ;)

[White Lightning]

i'd put my money on the corolla sportivo based on the fact that the tyres were worn and they XR5 had newer tyres... worn tyres = like racing slicks = less road resistance and therefore providing the conditions aren't wet - better in a straight line... and while both have lag while either waiting for turbo lag or lift to engage - lift engages much later and much more fiercely and spikes faster than the turbo in the XR5 does even tho the turbo offers more power overall - up to 80km/h from lights to lights my money would be on the sportivo - much easier to drive...

honestly u didn't really achieve any great fetes in driver skill - it was all the car...

[1stKill]

What is dark matter...and can i fit it to my Aurion?

[Steven]

What is dark matter...and can i fit it to my Aurion?

Basically it's just the super-compressed matter of a collapsed star. Works best in Hydrogen cars but should go fine in the Aurion provided your retard your timing a bit to cope with the few extra billion octane and upgrade your suspension to fit the 500 tonne fuel tank. Good millage on the stuff too I hear, people have been reporting better than 0.000001L/100km. Trouble is like with E85 is finding a station that carries the stuff.

[1stKill]

What is dark matter...and can i fit it to my Aurion?

Basically it's just the super-compressed matter of a collapsed star. Works best in Hydrogen cars but should go fine in the Aurion provided your retard your timing a bit to cope with the few extra billion octane and upgrade your suspension to fit the 500 tonne fuel tank. Good millage on the stuff too I hear, people have been reporting better than 0.000001L/100km. Trouble is like with E85 is finding a station that carries the stuff.

Cheers mate...sounds like it could be a decent mod,just gotta figure out what shade of dark will go with silver ash. :P

[Kenshin X]

whats the boiling point for genuine toyota brake fluid?

[Buff Hamster]

whats the boiling point for genuine toyota brake fluid?

I'm getting 215 degrees C.

http://toyotaravi.com/bfluid.htm

http://www.asco.com.fj/icms_docs/84091_Genuine_Brake_Fluids.pdf

Don't know if it's accurate or not.

Seems a bit low.

Edited July 8, 2011 by A Buff Hamster

[TroysRollaSX]

I figure this is as good a place to ask as any...

My car is registered in Victoria, and now that I've moved to South Australia, I need to get the car registered over here.

It broke down on the way to Melbourne to pick up some of my things almost a fortnight ago. I had to get back home before it was fixed (turns out it was the hall effect sensor in the dizzy that died, thus no signal to the ECU that the dizzy was turning, thus no fuel or spark), so once the car was fixed, it went back to where I used to live and share with a friend, and I won't be able to pick it up financially until next month.

Problem is, the Victorian rego expires on this sunday.

I enquired with the local SA transport people here, and they said that all I had to do was fill out the forms they gave me, pay the money and they'd give me new SA plates to put on the car and it would be registered here. I thought, perfect, wait until I've got the money, go in with the paperwork, pay for my new plates, throw them in my backpack, head back to Melbourne, put them on the car (so it's registered again) and drive it back home. However, I've been told by my partners mum (who works for toyota here in town) that they'll need to inspect the vehicle before they issue new plates for it. In which case I'd have to pay the vic rego just to get it back here.

Can anyone shed some light on this for me please?

[Kenshin X]

whats the boiling point for genuine toyota brake fluid?

I'm getting 215 degrees C.

http://toyotaravi.com/bfluid.htm

http://www.asco.com.fj/icms_docs/84091_Genuine_Brake_Fluids.pdf

Don't know if it's accurate or not.

Seems a bit low.

if this is the case I might get another brand of brake fluid. what would b recommended? I might go with penrite brake fluid

[Buff Hamster]

Castrol Super Dot 4 is fine but you are willing to spend the extra money then get Penrite SIN brake fluid.

[Spillzee]

I figure this is as good a place to ask as any...

My car is registered in Victoria, and now that I've moved to South Australia, I need to get the car registered over here.

It broke down on the way to Melbourne to pick up some of my things almost a fortnight ago. I had to get back home before it was fixed (turns out it was the hall effect sensor in the dizzy that died, thus no signal to the ECU that the dizzy was turning, thus no fuel or spark), so once the car was fixed, it went back to where I used to live and share with a friend, and I won't be able to pick it up financially until next month.

Problem is, the Victorian rego expires on this sunday.

I enquired with the local SA transport people here, and they said that all I had to do was fill out the forms they gave me, pay the money and they'd give me new SA plates to put on the car and it would be registered here. I thought, perfect, wait until I've got the money, go in with the paperwork, pay for my new plates, throw them in my backpack, head back to Melbourne, put them on the car (so it's registered again) and drive it back home. However, I've been told by my partners mum (who works for toyota here in town) that they'll need to inspect the vehicle before they issue new plates for it. In which case I'd have to pay the vic rego just to get it back here.

Can anyone shed some light on this for me please?

Just pay the rego in Vic. Drive around SA till rego nearly out again. Pretty sure you will need an inspection to change states.