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Posted
I don't normally know engine code thingies but i was doing a bit of research on tuning the engines (coz i was bored). apparantly its in a lexus ES350 too and there is a retune available.

my plan is to do intake and exhaust and retune (retune for more power - but mainly economy)

Need info on intake? i done mine ;)

Posted

yes danny... details are a MUST...

pronto boy!! have you done a full CAI?

also, what did you do with the diaphram valve looking thing in the intake???

Posted
Yes what Silver said.

Smaller 4cyl to 6cyl cars need the backpressure especially on the lower end of the rev range,

Well, not really - back pressure is always bad. When you make an exhaust mod to a freer flowing one, you interfere with the fuel/air ratio - Most of the time, the engine starts to run lean, losing power down low.

If you change the exhaust, you need to re-tune the parameters to compensate with a programmable computer. Whether or not you still enjoy the current fuel economy, is a different issue altogether.

My civic with a b16A engine ran a 2.5inch mandrell bend exhaust, to produce 119kw and heaps of torque (haha..torque in a honda!)

BTW, my Aurion dynoed at 153kw At the wheels.

Posted
I don't normally know engine code thingies but i was doing a bit of research on tuning the engines (coz i was bored). apparantly its in a lexus ES350 too and there is a retune available.

my plan is to do intake and exhaust and retune (retune for more power - but mainly economy)

Well, you can't really tune specifically for economy can you? You'd tune so the engine suits the modifications and economy should come because the engine is balanced and operating efficiently, but is really subjective to the type, level of mods and the materials used for the mods...


Posted
I don't normally know engine code thingies but i was doing a bit of research on tuning the engines (coz i was bored). apparantly its in a lexus ES350 too and there is a retune available.

my plan is to do intake and exhaust and retune (retune for more power - but mainly economy)

Well, you can't really tune specifically for economy can you? You'd tune so the engine suits the modifications and economy should come because the engine is balanced and operating efficiently, but is really subjective to the type, level of mods and the materials used for the mods...

well i'd get it tuned with a focus on economy. as opposed to just aiming for power. a conservative tune - with no risk of harming the engine.

better? :P there is not only one way to tune it is there?

Posted

the closed loop function of the factory ECU will take care of the "economy" side of things. If you're wanting to protect the engine up high you need either more fuel or less ignition timing... both will rob power.

Posted (edited)
Yes what Silver said.

Smaller 4cyl to 6cyl cars need the backpressure especially on the lower end of the rev range,

Well, not really - back pressure is always bad. When you make an exhaust mod to a freer flowing one, you interfere with the fuel/air ratio - Most of the time, the engine starts to run lean, losing power down low.

If you change the exhaust, you need to re-tune the parameters to compensate with a programmable computer. Whether or not you still enjoy the current fuel economy, is a different issue altogether.

My civic with a b16A engine ran a 2.5inch mandrell bend exhaust, to produce 119kw and heaps of torque (haha..torque in a honda!)

BTW, my Aurion dynoed at 153kw At the wheels.

Yep corrected, high compression engines such I assume the B16 is?, and turbos where the exhaust turbine creates more restrictions or any engine that has exhaust pressure build up from low down , require a more free flowing exhaust, but there is a point where you cant sticka 6" inch exhaust system even if you can remap AFR's and expect it to be increasingly performing.

Oh your's did 153fwkw? Rolla or Hub dyno and is your car stock?

Edited by AcoustiK
Posted
but there is a point where you cant sticka 6" inch exhaust system even if you can remap AFR's and expect it to be increasingly performing.

Oh your's did 153fwkw? Rolla or Hub dyno and is your car stock?

Yep, thats why its difficult to just talk about modifying - its all about geting the right combination.

153 fwkw on a Dyno Dynamics Roller Dyno. Car is bog stock running normal unleaded.

Put a number of modified Honda's to shame that day..LOL...yeah, but its 3.5l vs uptill 1.8l and also the Aurion weighs in as a barge...

  • 1 year later...
Posted

Well im in W.A so im just gonna go for my life haha

where about in wa are you from? know anywhere good around the kwinana region i can get the varex sytem?

  • 5 months later...
Posted

I just realized today that my exhaust has a whistling sound when it's fully closed. I compared to the other side and it's dead silent. Just wondering is this possible due to the valve not fully closed properly? I hate this kind of scenario, happening on long weekend. :(

Posted

I just realized today that my exhaust has a whistling sound when it's fully closed. I compared to the other side and it's dead silent. Just wondering is this possible due to the valve not fully closed properly? I hate this kind of scenario, happening on long weekend. :(

There is the possibility that it could be the butterfly valve not being fully closed. That said though, it's not a sealed butterfly valve so exhaust gases can always get past it when closed. It just takes the path of least resistance which happens to be that bypass chamber.

To make sure of it though, you have to disconnect one muffler and press the close button for a couple of seconds, then repeat with the other muffler. When both are connected to the same circuit, having one reach full closed/open before the other can create extra load in the circuit and even make it more difficult for the other one to close properly. This is why you need to disconnect one at a time then 'reset' it.

Posted

Ouch.. Not really sure how to dc those, since i went to a mechanic to hard-wire em. I'll try the exhaust shop tomorrow, since im gettin my tips done... Yay.. xD

Anw, When installed, both of em were working properly. What factor could cause this? If this happened once, that means there's gonna be 2nd time?

Posted

Not saying that is the issue though. Maybe just see how it goes after a few days. If it was only just put on, give it some time to settle in.

  • 4 years later...
Posted

I've been thinking about putting these on for a while, I don't want to change the performance, I'm quite happy with it, just like a bit beefier sound. Is this a good idea?

  • 6 years later...
Posted
On 2/11/2015 at 1:06 PM, 07Prodigy said:

I've been thinking about putting these on for a while, I don't want to change the performance, I'm quite happy with it, just like a bit beefier sound. Is this a good idea?

Hey Prodigy,

Sorry for the 6 year necro, but did you end up going through with this? What did it turn out like? How much did it cost? Looking at getting my Oreo sounding a bit more beefy and sporty. Just not sure what path to take without doing a muffler delete. I was thinking a catback exhaust with a high flow cat, but I like the idea of a Varex muffler (so if my family drive it, they can drive it quietly).


Thanks.

Posted
On 3/10/2021 at 7:10 AM, Twixter said:

Just not sure what path to take without doing a muffler delete.

This thread by Metal_Head is worth a read. Proven results replacing rear mufflers with glass packed resonators.

 

Posted
On 3/11/2021 at 7:45 PM, campbeam said:

This thread by Metal_Head is worth a read. Proven results replacing rear mufflers with glass packed resonators.

 

Cheers for the link. I'll give it a lookie!

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